Can’t get my Anderson valve to turn ..!

[Dmetcalf]

I wanted to winterize my unit and the valve absolutely will not turn and I’m afraid of breaking something if I continue to try turning it. Am I missing something here ..? Shouldn’t it click from city to winterize without difficulty..?
Thanks for any advice..!
D.

 

[danemayer]

Hi Duane,

Might not help you today, but Anderson recommends Dow Molycote 111 lube on the O-Rings - not petroleum or other products. You'd have to remove the cartridge to apply the Molycote. There's a video in this folder (about 3 down) that shows how to take out the cartridge. It should only take a few minutes once you have the Molycote.

 

[Dmetcalf]

Hi Duane,

Might not help you today, but Anderson recommends Dow Molycote 111 lube on the O-Rings - not petroleum or other products. You'd have to remove the cartridge to apply the Molycote. There's a video in this folder (about 3 down) that shows how to take out the cartridge. It should only take a few minutes once you have the Molycote.

This unit ( it probably doesn’t matter) isn’t even a year old so I was hoping this valve was the brass one and not the plastic internal parts so that it might work better ..!
thanks for the fast reply ..!

 

[MTPockets]

Could also be an O’ring. I had it happen and replaced the O’ring and proper lube.

 

[Fox]

Have you turned off the water and released pressure on the lines?

 

[ziggy]

If you have the new brass valve some are really hard to turn. I replaced ours and called Ron at ABCO before forcing the knob to turn and possibly breaking something. Ron told me to cover the knob with a rag or something to prevent scratching it and then use a pair of channel locks and turn it. The knob gets easier to turn after forcing it the first time. Hope this helps.

 

[Dmetcalf]

Have you turned off the water and released pressure on the lines?

Yup no online water pressure

- - - Updated - - -

If you have the new brass valve some are really hard to turn. I replaced ours and called Ron at ABCO before forcing the knob to turn and possibly breaking something. Ron told me to cover the knob with a rag or something to prevent scratching it and then use a pair of channel locks and turn it. The knob gets easier to turn after forcing it the first time. Hope this helps.

I was afraid someone was going to tell me this 😬

 

[Dmetcalf]

If you have the new brass valve some are really hard to turn. I replaced ours and called Ron at ABCO before forcing the knob to turn and possibly breaking something. Ron told me to cover the knob with a rag or something to prevent scratching it and then use a pair of channel locks and turn it. The knob gets easier to turn after forcing it the first time. Hope this helps.

Does it matter what direction I turn it ..?

 

[ziggy]

I don't remember which way I turned ours. It was easy to turn after the first time.

 

[Dmetcalf]

I don't remember which way I turned ours. It was easy to turn after the first time.

Thanks for the quick reply. I think (?) I remember someone saying you should only turn it in one direction but I could be wrong .? Just not sure which direction to force it ..?

 

[BigJim45]

To be better informed as to which Anderson 4 way valve you have can you post a photo of yours.

 

[LBR]

I always turn it CW with all pressures bled off on the incoming hose, if applicable, and inside the house pressures totally bled off.

 

[Dmetcalf]

I always turn it CW with all pressures bled off on the incoming hose, if applicable, and inside the house pressures totally bled off.

Thanks for the information. I have all water pressure bled off because I knew that needed to be done first (been camping over 30 years). I think the valve body will need to be lubricated to work as designed so I’ll YouTube it and try that. Thanks again.

 

[danemayer]

Thanks for the information. I have all water pressure bled off because I knew that needed to be done first (been camping over 30 years). I think the valve body will need to be lubricated to work as designed so I’ll YouTube it and try that. Thanks again.

Anderson says that some lubricants hold dirt/crud which leads to wear of the o-rings and internal leaking.

 

[Dmetcalf]

Anderson says that some lubricants hold dirt/crud which leads to wear of the o-rings and internal leaking.

Thank you for the information on this. I (thinking out loud) wonder why Heartland continues to use this product anymore since it has so many issues ..?
thanks again..!

 

[avvidclif]

Probably because 99% of the time they are fine AND it's the only thing on the market like it. I've never had a problem.

 

[Dmetcalf]

Probably because 99% of the time they are fine AND it's the only thing on the market like it. I've never had a problem.

Im hoping that after I take it apart and replace all of the o-rings and lubricate it I’ll be back in business.!!!

 

[danemayer]

Thank you for the information on this. I (thinking out loud) wonder why Heartland continues to use this product anymore since it has so many issues ..?
thanks again..!

I think Anderson has been moving RV manufacturers to the all brass version. But I don't know if Heartland has changed yet.

 

[Dmetcalf]

I think Anderson has been moving RV manufacturers to the all brass version. But I don't know if Heartland has changed yet.

Guess I’ll find out when I tear into it this weekend..! Gota get the o-rings first I guess.

 

[danemayer]

Guess I’ll find out when I tear into it this weekend..! Gota get the o-rings first I guess.

If yours looks like this - you have the old style with plastic parts.


Anderson has released a plug-compatible retrofit with all brass parts. Notice the top setting is for both City Fixtures (used to be CITY), and Dry Camping (used to be NORMAL).




I don't have pictures, but I think the OEM version of the all brass valve assembly is shaped a bit differently.