Colorado Springs Winter Storm Warning 10/9

[FrontRangeTraveler]

Hello all,

My wife and I are leaving near 10/16 for a road trip to KY with our Mallard M28, but we're looking at below freezing temps the next three nights and possible snow tomorrow (10/9). Our Mallard hasn't been winterized yet due to the upcoming road trip, and the forecast is for sub-freezing temps the next two nights (possibly mid 20s).

The water system was drained after our last camping trip (near Labor Day), except for the hot water heater. Are we safe to just leave the low point drains open with those temps for a couple of nights? Should I pump antifreeze into the system (except the hot water heater) and not take the chance? Camping World here in Colorado Springs said they didn't think mid 20s for a couple of hours each night would be much of a risk, but I can't be sure the below freezing temps won't last more than a few hours each night.

I don't have the tools to blow out the lines, and very little time next week to do a full flush and sanitization of the fresh water system before we leave for KY, but I also don't want to take unnecessary risks with the water system.

Thanks for any tips (especially from folks here in the Springs who have been through situations like this).

-BK

 

[jbeletti]

I suggest you pull the anode rod or drain plug from your water heater and drain it "just in case".

I assume you don't have a clothes washer, dishwasher or icemaker, but if you have any of these, I'd winterize them as well.

If you have an outdoor shower, considering taking the shower head off to drain any water in it.

For your indoor shower, hang the head/hose downward and open the hot and cold taps to allow any water in the hose/head to drain.

If your water pump has a strainer bowl on the suction side, consider removing that bowl and draining it of water. Clean the screen in it while you're there.

Press the toilet flush pedal to allow any pressure behind the valve to be released.

This all said, sub-freezing temps for a few hours is not likely to do any damage, but what if it ends up being sub-freezing for 24 or more? Do you really want to go out then and work on it?

Please drain your water heater and all shower heads at a minimum.

 

[danemayer]

If you have shore power and a good propane supply, you could leave the water heater ON and turn the furnace ON with thermostat set to 72. If no shore power, it's risky because you could run the battery down before the freeze is over.

A cup of antifreeze in each sink/shower drain will protect p-traps.

If you have a water feed line to the refrigerator, it may be exposed to outside air and if so, must have the water evacuated. Same with the water valve on the back of the refrigerator, if you have water or ice.

 

[FrontRangeTraveler]

If you have shore power and a good propane supply, you could leave the water heater ON and turn the furnace ON with thermostat set to 72. If no shore power, it's risky because you could run the battery down before the freeze is over.

I can leave it on shore power overnight, so this sounds like a good compromise, in addition to making sure the outside shower, sink and low point drains are open and fully drained (they should be, but I'll double-check).

Does the furnace need to be at 72 to make sure the basement and lines in the underbelly don't drop below freezing?

Does the hot water heater operate on a thermostat where it will keep the water above a certain temp all night, or does it just heat on demand?

Thanks!

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

 

[danemayer]

I can leave it on shore power overnight, so this sounds like a good compromise, in addition to making sure the outside shower, sink and low point drains are open and fully drained (they should be, but I'll double-check).

Does the furnace need to be at 72 to make sure the basement and lines in the underbelly don't drop below freezing?

Does the hot water heater operate on a thermostat where it will keep the water above a certain temp all night, or does it just heat on demand?

Thanks!

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

The water heater thermostat will keep the water in the tank at 130 (F) as long as you have power.

Furnace at 72 is arbitrary. Depending on location of the water pump and lines and the furnace, you may get enough indirect heat to protect the pump at 72, or maybe 65. I suggested 72 because you'll have a pretty good shot at protecting those areas and keeping the underbelly 10 degrees or so above outside temps.

 

[FrontRangeTraveler]

Thanks for the great suggestions!

Sent from my LG V10 using Tapatalk

 

[JohnD]

Just saw this thread . . .

We were camping down at Mountaindale the night the snow hit and stayed an extra night as we didn't want to go over snow-covered Monarch Pass.

Took this photo the day before on 10/8/2017:



It was cold at Mountaindale, but just got a little slushy snow.

We just stayed inside and watched movies all day.