Bones
Well-known member
We will see what th diagnosis is soon
Cyclone loading ramp failure
- Thread starter porthole
- Start date
We will see what th diagnosis is soon
jimandjean
Active Member
jimandjean
Active Member
That's what I would think two, and I would say the coating would make it very difficult for the water molecules to penetrate the cracks.
I don't think it would be perfect, but it would be a very inexpensive and easy extra measure of insurance to limit penetration
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I recently purchased a 2014 Cy4100 with the patio door setup.I thought I was making a step better. I used to own an older 2004 Sunnybrook toy hauler that had a very solid door. Even though I didnt have happijak beds,and 30 amp service, it was built like a tank. We wanted 50 amp service, extra beds, 2nd bath, and 3 ACs, as the Mrs doesnt like heat.
After reading this thread, yes I see a BIG difference in door quality. I used to spray out my old toy hauler without any issues.(It had rubber liner on floor that went 12 inches up wall and door didnt have luan in it)..... I guess I wont be doing it with this one.
As of now I dont see any signs of back door issues.
1. any suggestions to get the longest life out of my door? Other than keep it dry?
It did have 1 morning rain on the door during the last trip a few weeks back.
2. What do I look for when issues arrive?
3. Can we bullet proof the door before issues? Sealant? etc.
After reading this thread, yes I see a BIG difference in door quality. I used to spray out my old toy hauler without any issues.(It had rubber liner on floor that went 12 inches up wall and door didnt have luan in it)..... I guess I wont be doing it with this one.
As of now I dont see any signs of back door issues.
1. any suggestions to get the longest life out of my door? Other than keep it dry?
It did have 1 morning rain on the door during the last trip a few weeks back.
2. What do I look for when issues arrive?
3. Can we bullet proof the door before issues? Sealant? etc.
avvidclif
Well-known member
I would: Caulk every seam, crack, and bolt hole on both sides, don't forget the cable ties. Top to bottom. Anyplace where 2 materials meet or water could get in. Consider reinforcing the bottom 18" with diamond plate. Inside and out. Look around, several have done it and posted pictures. Looks nice and reinforces the spring area.
Although Lippert said they gave me a new ramp it cost abt $1k in shipping to get it here.
Although Lippert said they gave me a new ramp it cost abt $1k in shipping to get it here.
NWILSON
Kentucky Chapter Leaders - retired
Our '17 Cyclone has a Challenge ramp door on it instead of a Lippert. I'm not sure when the factory changed vendors. It's quite evident that sealer was used all around the frame so hopefully, the new guys are providing a door less prone to leaks and rotting.
the problem is these ramp doors are made from un-treated wood such as "luan" which will not withstand any moisture before failing. My side patio ramp failed after only 6 months in the weather !
There is no way to keep moisture out of the inside of these ramps because there is simply too many seams and hardware mountings that will let water in. If you re-build the ramp out of heavier treated wood like several people have done, then its too heavy for the springs and will be difficult to lift. It will get even heavier with time as the wood continues to absorbs more moisture.
Im thinking of designing an "all aluminum" ramp utilizing the existing outer frame, hardware and outer skin which is painted. The interior will have aluminum angles running 2 directions and welded together. Then pouring in a 2 part foam mixture that will fill all voids and bond everything together. Then finally an aluminum plate walking surface that will be riveted to the framework and coated with a non-slip surface ( maybe truck bed liner)
Im hoping this will not weigh too much more than the original design and should last the life of the trailer.
Has anyone tried building this kind of ramp ?
There is no way to keep moisture out of the inside of these ramps because there is simply too many seams and hardware mountings that will let water in. If you re-build the ramp out of heavier treated wood like several people have done, then its too heavy for the springs and will be difficult to lift. It will get even heavier with time as the wood continues to absorbs more moisture.
Im thinking of designing an "all aluminum" ramp utilizing the existing outer frame, hardware and outer skin which is painted. The interior will have aluminum angles running 2 directions and welded together. Then pouring in a 2 part foam mixture that will fill all voids and bond everything together. Then finally an aluminum plate walking surface that will be riveted to the framework and coated with a non-slip surface ( maybe truck bed liner)
Im hoping this will not weigh too much more than the original design and should last the life of the trailer.
Has anyone tried building this kind of ramp ?
I haven’t tried rebuilding the ramp but your idea of using all aluminum is probably what the factory should have done to begin with. I just replaced my side patio door and repainted the outside. As we speak I have it and the rear ramp strapped down to my flatbed trailer with a date at the line x guy in the morning. Hopefully this will stick to the black part of the deck and seal up all the bolt penetrations. When I took apart all the brackets from the old door I found the bolts that hold the swivel latch for the door were all rusted. This is where the water is getting in. The nut portion of the bolt on the inside of the ramp/deck is hollow and water can seep in. You should at a minimum silicone all these up. I am hoping the line x will give an all inclusive water barrier. Also I am covering it in a light Grey so hopefully cooler on the feet also. If I ever have to replace the doors again I would seriously consider your suggestion Rigman123. Good luck.
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I have 2017 cyclone 4005 and had intended to keep rear door down for patio all summer long. There does appear to be some sealant that was used around door frame but I can't tell about the bolts.
Does anyone know if that model has an upgraded door so it will be more resistant to water intrusion and rot that earlier doors?
Does anyone know if that model has an upgraded door so it will be more resistant to water intrusion and rot that earlier doors?
Lippert Ram concerns
By reading the forum, is it really true that there is no metal in the toy hauler ramps other than the aluminum trim pieces around the edges? My entire ramp/patio surface is spongy and I am driving my Fiat 500 car across it. (Ramp rated 3000 lbs., Cargo weight limit 2500 lbs. Fiat weighs 2400 lbs.) I know the wood is dissolving because water drains out whenever I lift the ramp - I assumed there surely must be some metal panels in it. Am I wrong? I contacted Lippert to ask what the skeleton of the ramp looks like and they told me because of proprietary concerns they can't tell me. (read litigation concerns).
I had already decided I was going to cut it open and replace the wood, but I assumed I would be placing wood around metal supports. Now I'm afraid to drive on it for fear I'll be driving the tires through the ramp.
Any thoughts or information would be appreciated.
By reading the forum, is it really true that there is no metal in the toy hauler ramps other than the aluminum trim pieces around the edges? My entire ramp/patio surface is spongy and I am driving my Fiat 500 car across it. (Ramp rated 3000 lbs., Cargo weight limit 2500 lbs. Fiat weighs 2400 lbs.) I know the wood is dissolving because water drains out whenever I lift the ramp - I assumed there surely must be some metal panels in it. Am I wrong? I contacted Lippert to ask what the skeleton of the ramp looks like and they told me because of proprietary concerns they can't tell me. (read litigation concerns).
I had already decided I was going to cut it open and replace the wood, but I assumed I would be placing wood around metal supports. Now I'm afraid to drive on it for fear I'll be driving the tires through the ramp.
Any thoughts or information would be appreciated.
LBR
Well-known member
Re: Lippert Ram concerns
My thoughts are sure wished you would have been reading here about moisture on tailgates (and side patios) before letting yours getting wet to that degree.
I don’t think there is any metal in the ramp other than the aluminum trim around the perimeter. It’s just thin luan over foam with a fiberglass skin on out side and non skid over luan on inside. Depending on age of rig LCI may pay for the new ramp as they did for me but I had to do the installation myself.
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porthole
Retired
Re: Lippert Ram concerns
I'm a little partial to this thread, but I believe all your questions are answered within the 80 posts in the thread, in detail.
Start with the first post. That video is taken with the phone on the ground looking up as I took my bike out of the garage.
Fortunately I found the failure before my bike fell through the ramp.
I'm a little partial to this thread, but I believe all your questions are answered within the 80 posts in the thread, in detail.
Start with the first post. That video is taken with the phone on the ground looking up as I took my bike out of the garage.
Fortunately I found the failure before my bike fell through the ramp.
Razorbackfan
USN Chief
I had a new 2015 forest river toy hauler before the Landmark and within 3-4 months in CA where it doesn’t rain it delaminated so Heartland isn’t the only one using cheap material.
Funny that I’ve owned two cheaper cargo trailers and neither had issues with the doors. My 53’ was all aluminum which I drove 7k lb trucks on and my current 20’ one is steel but it’s only had motorcycles on it.
There are a few cargo trailer places that make custom trailers that would make a door I imagine. I like the idea stated above using the old outside skin to keep the look.
Funny that I’ve owned two cheaper cargo trailers and neither had issues with the doors. My 53’ was all aluminum which I drove 7k lb trucks on and my current 20’ one is steel but it’s only had motorcycles on it.
There are a few cargo trailer places that make custom trailers that would make a door I imagine. I like the idea stated above using the old outside skin to keep the look.
