Disk brakes Titian vs MorRyde

BigGuy82

Well-known member
So I see a lot of talk about disk brakes. It is one of the big items left on my mod list left to do. So this begs the question which system do I chose? Is there any difference or advantage from one to the other. I am not looking to start a Ford vs Chevy or Ram type of discussion just the facts and opinions of those who have them.
1. Did you install them yourself?
2. Is it truly worth the expense?
3. What about service on them?
4. Is there a special controller needed?
I am sure that many if not all of these questions have been answered on multi post but I just don't have the time to read all the post. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Steve

Call Ron Russell at performancetrailerbraking.com (405) 626-7009 and ask your questions. Ron worked for Titan for a long time and knows his stuff. He will sell you a complete kit with everything you need to convert a twin 7k axle setup (minus tools and brake fluid) for $1,750. If you want him to install it, he'll send a couple of installers to your house and they'll knock it off in a day for $1,000.

You can research this to death like I did and at the end of the day, you'll find that this is a really tough deal to beat. You also know that the whole setup is compatible as opposed to piece-mealing it yourself. Also, if you DIY it, Ron is available day or night with excellent technical assistance.

Me, I prefer DIY, but having two guys working for 8 hours and doing it on site is a good deal.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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superduty08

Tennessee Chapter Leaders
I had Ron send his installers (Titan) to me in 2015 and have no regrets! The difference is day and night. We are on our cross country tour and have had a couple of emergency stops that would have been terrible if not for our Titan brakes. We are now in the mountains of New Mexico and love the confidence of my brakes. I feel good about moving into the Rocky Mountains next week. I had to turn the gain down by almost half.
 

namgrunt51

Member
I did my own install of Titan brakes last winter and just finished a 15,000 mile trip out west. The difference between electric drums and hydraulic discs is amazing! I just put together a video of the process and hope it will be helpful to anyone thinking of changing over to discs. Here is a link to the video:

https://youtu.be/I6KO3ozrrUY
 
Wire nuts were used in my trailer also, is there a problem with that?
Take a look in your junction box where the pigtail comes in from your truck and you will find wire nuts.
I've spent 40+ years using wire nuts in all sorts of applications, from small ones to huge ones.
I've seen more problems in my career, with ring or fork style crimped connections than I've ever seen with a wire nut.
With both methods, they have to be installed correctly.

Hockster
 

BigGuy82

Well-known member
Wire nuts were used in my trailer also, is there a problem with that?
Take a look in your junction box where the pigtail comes in from your truck and you will find wire nuts.
I've spent 40+ years using wire nuts in all sorts of applications, from small ones to huge ones.
I've seen more problems in my career, with ring or fork style crimped connections than I've ever seen with a wire nut.
With both methods, they have to be installed correctly.

Hockster
To each his own. I tore out the cheap junction box and replaced it with a weatherproof box that has a terminal strip. I use nothing but crimped ring connectors with plastic heat shrink insulators. The terminal strip posts all use nuts with integral washers. I don't see it being a problem in my lifetime.

Now about the factory box. Connections were sloppy but secure using crimp on wire nuts. Wires were too long and stuffed in the box. Two wires were nicked from the factory (what could possibly go wrong?). My preferred methods of securing wire ( in order): solder, crimp, wire nut (with a tape wrap).
 

BigGuy82

Well-known member
Curious.....Do you know of any trailers that don't use wire nuts???
Don't know how porthole will answer but mine didn't come with wire nuts as most people know them - the twist on type. It came with crimp on connectors that perform the same function as a wire nut but in my estimation are more secure. However, the junction box just looks cheesy, the wires were stuffed in because they were too long and two wires were nicked. Poor workmanship.
 

RoadJunkie

Well-known member
I don't believe solder is up to code because the solder can melt when wires get hot, may cause cold junction?
 

namgrunt51

Member
99% of the trailers we work on use wire nuts. We have opened up over 130 junction boxes this year, all but 2 we wire nuts.


Thanks for making my point....And I'm sure that in the 2 units that didn't find wire nuts in the hitch junction box you wouldn't have to look far to find them used in other parts of the trailer. Any electrical connection is only as good as the quality and skill of the installation. While I prefer crimped connections, in my experience wire nuts aren't pretty but installed correctly are tried and true.
 

porthole

Retired
Wire nuts - nuts !

Wire nuts are for sticks and bricks, not rolling earthquakes. Proper automotive 12 volt wiring uses crimps.

And there are none in my junction box.
 

BigGuy82

Well-known member
Regarding wire nuts, let me elaborate:


Factory - sloppy, ugly, half *$$#d, cheap. If your rig has this but it uses twist-on wire nuts, add unreliable. Because these are crimp-on, they are reliable. Rube Goldberg could have come up with something better.

IMG_1411.jpg



Me - neat, good looking, professional, reliable

IMG_1413.jpg

'nuff said.
 

For20hunter

Pacific Region Directors-Retired
Ron Russell (titanguy) and his crew installed 8k axles and the Titan disk brakes, which are AMAZING!! It is hands down, the best money we have spent on any upgrades to our Landmark!

Rod
 

wdk450

Well-known member
I don't believe solder is up to code because the solder can melt when wires get hot, may cause cold junction?


If wiring gets hot enough to melt solder, there is a problem that could cause a fire and an electrical connection malfunction. I saw training films in the Navy about soldering showing how the solder permeates the crystalline lattice of each of the 2 metals to make a connection that is gas tight, and therefore oxidation corrosion proof. Solder DOES make a multiconductor wire too rigid and it is subject to repeated vibration fractures.

Crimp connections can be made improperly (as can solder connections). A GOOD crimp conncetion should also be gas tight, but this is difficult to achieve. When I was in the Navy civilian contractors had expensive crimping tools that had 4 evenly spaced jaw blades around the crimp connection body and ratcheted down against the crimp connector body equally, resulting in a superior, gas tight, crimp. Sealant on the crimp connection helps, but common RTV sealant gives off acetic acid, so only ELECTRONIC GRADE RTV should be used on electrical connections. They even make RTV pre- treated wirenuts for connecting earth buried cables. The RTV sealant has the added function of eliminating threaded wirenut loosening.
 

namgrunt51

Member
Regarding wire nuts, let me elaborate:


Factory - sloppy, ugly, half *$$#d, cheap. If your rig has this but it uses twist-on wire nuts, add unreliable. Because these are crimp-on, they are reliable. Rube Goldberg could have come up with something better.

View attachment 51543



Me - neat, good looking, professional, reliable

View attachment 51544

'nuff said.

Here's my junction box in a cacoon of good old duct tape. For a fleeting moment, I pondered removing the tape, taking off the cover and photographing, for all to see, the multi-colored spaghetti that dwells behind. I thought, I'll show my unprofessional, ugly old wire nuts, but then remembered...you can't see them... they're wrapped, dry and secure, in multi layered electrical tape as cozy as well preserved Egyptian mummies. And besides, the duct tape still looked so good after a, bone rattling, 15K trip cross country this past winter. My previous toy hauler, got the same treatment, and the junction box never again saw the light of day for the 8 years I owned it, after the initial checking and taping of the original factory connections . So, knowing my junction box might cause nightmares to the "faint of heart", I'll spare you a photo of the innards.... As for me, I'll continue to hurdle down the road with my "rolling earthquake" confident that barring a biblical disaster or rogue meteor my sloppy, ugly, half *$$#d, cheap wire nuts AIN'T coming loose.


nuff said:cool:
 

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