Dometic 2-way refrigerator not running on electric

[Irwright2]

We own a 2009 Heartland Sundance 3300SK. We have nevere been on a forum, so this is new for us. We are having problems getting our refrigerator to recognize when electricity is plugged in, and it continues to use our LP gas up. We have checked the fuses in the power box of the appliance, and have made sure we are using the "Auto" function correctly. Has anyone else encountered this before? Is there something else we need to check? Thank you for your help.

Ron and Janie Wright
DeKalb, Il
2009 Heartland Sundance 3300SK fifth wheel
2009 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD

 

[branson4020]

Circuit breaker?

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

Ron & Janie, is this a new rig to you? The first thing that comes to mind is the GFI outlet that is usually found near the vanity sink. All outlets requiring GFI protection are on this circuit. The other possibility is the plug on the reefer has come out. It's outside behind that vent panel. You may have a breaker that popped. Or there may be a bad fuse in the 12 volt panel next to the 110 breakers.

 

[JohnDar]

Somehow, somewhere, I'm missing it. Folks keep talking about the entire trailer being ruled by the single GFCI in the bathroom. Explain to me how an outlet with it's own breaker is tied into a GFCI outlet not on the same breaker. If it has its own breaker, then it's an independent circuit off the main panel. The more receptacles you put downstream of a GFCI, the more susceptible it is to "phantom tripping" because of the fluctuations when you turn things on/off.

 

[jnbhobe]

Ron & Janie, is this a new rig to you? The first thing that comes to mind is the GFI outlet that is usually found near the vanity sink. All outlets requiring GFI protection are on this circuit. The other possibility is the plug on the reefer has come out. It's outside behind that vent panel. You may have a breaker that popped. Or there may be a bad fuse in the 12 volt panel next to the 110 breakers.

I have to agree with Ray usually the plug fell out or the GFI circuit.

 

[boatto5er]

I have to agree with Ray usually the plug fell out or the GFI circuit.

Yep, had my plug fall out once on our old Sundance. Check that first.

 

[DougS]

Ron, your refrig. works on propane, so sounds like you have 12 volts. Try checking voltage at the outlet from the outside of RV behind refrg. If you have 120 volts, try checking continuity at the terminals at heating coil. If you have no continuity at the terminal leads, you could have a bad heating element. Before you check heating element, make sure you unplug from the outlet. Refrig. circuit should not be on a GFI.

 

[57chevyconvt]

Ron,
Don't know about your 120 VAC power supply, but some of the 2009 BH trailers refer 120 Volt wiring is fed from the bathroom GFI. This GFI supplies power to the bathroom, kitchen and outside plugs, code requires GFI anywhere water is present. The control board also contains a fuse on the 120V side of the board in addition to the contactors that control voltage to the electric heating elements. Hopefully it is not a control board. If it is, I would suggest a replacement from Dinosaur Electronics. Much better control board than Dometic.

 

[Irwright2]

Thank you all for your responses. We initially had problems with the electric not working right after we had gotten our RV winterized. We went looking and found that the fridge had been unplugged from the electric supply. We plugged it back in but have not been able to get it to work right since. Today, we checked the fuses, and they were fine. We will check the other things that you all have suggested. Hopefully we can find the problem.

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

Somehow, somewhere, I'm missing it. Folks keep talking about the entire trailer being ruled by the single GFCI in the bathroom. Explain to me how an outlet with it's own breaker is tied into a GFCI outlet not on the same breaker. If it has its own breaker, then it's an independent circuit off the main panel. The more receptacles you put downstream of a GFCI, the more susceptible it is to "phantom tripping" because of the fluctuations when you turn things on/off.

As far as I know, the outlets ruled by the GFI are the fridge, UDC and door side exterior outlets. I'm not too sure about the outlet in the kitchen above the sink. Never really checked it.

 

[JohnDar]

As far as I know, the outlets ruled by the GFI are the fridge, UDC and door side exterior outlets. I'm not too sure about the outlet in the kitchen above the sink. Never really checked it.

Outlets where water may be present, like bathroom or kitchen, are where GFCI's are required. Those, and unprotected outside receptacles. But, to stick my foot in my mouth, I took another look at my breaker panel photo. There is no separate breaker for the refer, so it may very well be on the GFCI and its breaker. Pass the salsa, the shoe leather is a little dry.

 

[jayc]

I can tell you for a fact that the fridge is on the GFCI circuit. While in Canton TX for our rally there, my GFCI circuit went out and I had to plug the fridge into an extension cord so it would run on electricity.

 

[JohnDar]

I can tell you for a fact that the fridge is on the GFCI circuit. While in Canton TX for our rally there, my GFCI circuit went out and I had to plug the fridge into an extension cord so it would run on electricity.

OK, I admitted my stupidity. Chewing Vibram as I type. Shoulda pulled the pebbles out first, though.

 

[jimtoo]

I think it is by "Code" that any electrical plug close to, or subject to water, or outside be on a GFI plug....which is great. But why don't they maybe use 2 of them? One for bathroom and fridge and UDC, and then another for kitchen area and outside awning. Or something like that.

Just my thoughts.

Jim M

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

I think it is by "Code" that any electrical plug close to, or subject to water, or outside be on a GFI plug....which is great. But why don't they maybe use 2 of them? One for bathroom and fridge and UDC, and then another for kitchen area and outside awning. Or something like that.

Just my thoughts.

Jim M

I agree Jim. Even a couple of GFI breakers would be better than a single GFI outlet for as many are downstream. Probably a cost effective decision. I must say though, since I replaced the GFI outlet early on, I have had no further issue. It's not often anything is plugged into the outside outlets.

 

[Irwright2]

I am not an electrician and am still learning my way around the RV, so forgive me if I sound ignorant. If the outlet in the bathroom that is coded GFCI is working fine, is there any reason the fridge would not be working properly off of that? Is there some-place that I am supposed to be looking for an actual connection to that outlet/power source?
Thanks again for eveybody's input!

 

[Irwright2]

Would the breaker that the fridge is connected to also control the electric for the 2-way water heater? We have had problems with it for about the same amount of time. We can run the water heater on gas but not electric.
Thanks!

 

[JohnDar]

The water heater, for sure, is on it's own 15A circuit breaker and not the GFCI. At least in mine it is. If you ran it without sufficient water in it, you might have burnt out the electric element. The other possibility is the Hi-Limit switch has tripped and needs to be reset (the black rubber "buttons" on the face of the tank). One is for 12V, the other for 120V. Lastly, take a look on the back of the water heater tank, itself. There is a circuit board module taped to the back of it. If the tape has let go, the plug may get pulled out and the thing won't work. Had that problem on a prior TT.

 

[57chevyconvt]

Since John has covered the Hot Water heater in sufficient detail, I will offer this suggest on the refer problem, i.e., in order to make sure that you have power to the refer outlet plug in a work light. If no power to the light and the bathroom GFI outlet has power, the problem is in the wiring either at the GFI or at the power outlet at the refer location. IF there is power to the refer receptacle, then the problem could like be with the control board. I have been told that a near-by lightening strike could damage the control board without blowing a fuse.

 

[Invizatu]

In ref. to the water heater.... There is also a simple on off switch that might have a cotter pin locking it in the off position. Mine is located in the lower left hand corner. Again it is accessed from outside, lift the vent cover and look carefully, it might be somewhat difficult to see.
Good luck.