Dometic Refrigerator maximum DC voltage

[Big-B]

Greetings,

I'm getting ready to equalize the batteries in our RV and will be running the voltage up to 16.2 volts for two hours. I usually just turn the refrigerator off and keep the doors closed but with the weather warming up it would be nice to be able to just let the refrigerator on provided that I can do it without frying a board.

Does anyone know what the maximum DC voltage is on a 12/120 volt /LP Dometic refrigerator?

Thanks

 

[rhodies1]

I wouldn’t turn on the fridge using that voltage.i would think you’ll fry something.

 

[cookie]

You mentioned that you have a 12/120 volt refrigerator. If you have shore power available, with an extension cord, you could just plug your refrigerator in to 120 to keep things cold.

Peace
Dave

 

[Big-B]

The only 120 that we have in a generator or inverter and I don't want to run the inverter for the same reasons that I'm leery about running the fridge with the higher voltage. I think even if I'm running the fridge on 120 it still may be getting the power for the control board from the battery bank which will be at 16.2 volts.


I looked at my Dometic manual and it doesn't have those specs in it.

 

[Dahillbilly]

Like Dave stated above use an extension cord for the frig and just remove the battery cables to the RV. The frig is then isolated from the RV totally. Call Dometic ask their tech's.

 

[wdk450]

Like Dave stated above use an extension cord for the frig and just remove the battery cables to the RV. The frig is then isolated from the RV totally. Call Dometic ask their tech's.

I disagree with this unless Dometic has redesigned their RV refrigerator circuit boards. All of the past circuit boards have use the 12 Volts DC power as the power source for the LOGIC and gas ignition functions on the circuit board. THIS INCLUDES SENDING 120 VOLT AC POWER (IF PRESENT) TO THE HEATER ELEMENTS VIA SWITCHING LOGIC CIRCUITS AND POWER RELAYS. I wouldn't expect the refrigerator to work at all if 12 volts DC is removed.

I would say that your choice here is an engineering possible costs versus benefits situation. Is keeping the refrigerator cooling going worth the possible frying of a $150 refrigerator controller circuit board? How about pulling the refrigerator DC fuse (or power feed wire) during the battery procedure, and inserting pre-frozen blue ice blocks in the refrigerator side. Hopefully the insulation will keep the frozen side OK for a couple of hours.

 

[jerryjay11]

If running this charge for just two hours your fridge should be able to handle keeping everything cold. Today's refrigerators are better insulated to do this. Two hours is nothing. I've driven up to 12 hours with my fridge off and everything was cold in fresh food and frozen in freezer. Rule of Thumb...Not to exceed 10% voltage difference.

 

[Bogie]

Don't know which Dometic model you have. The models covered in THIS Operations Manual in the Tools tab above Says the operating DC voltage is 9.5 to 15 volts DC. Look at the very bottom on page 27.

I have a Service Manual that covers my Dometic refrigerator model (DM2852). It indicates that the operating DC voltage can be 10.5 - 18 Volts DC. I don't know why the difference.

As already suggested, you can power the refrigerator with the converter. Disconnect the batteries and charge them separately.