E-Z Lube Hubs on 3500RL

[bill40]

Question on E-Z Lube Hubs on 3500RL
Am I correct that the wheel must be removed in order to grease the axles on a unit with the aluminum rims. My old unit had the rubber plug for the fitting sticking through the hub cover. On the 3500RL the hub is solid.
In the owners manual it says there is no need to lift the vehicle.

 

[cdbMidland]

In the center of the hub part of the wheel is a plastic disc that can be lifted out to access a grease zerk. Don't use much grease, however.

 

[bill40]

Thanks Chuck, I will put my glasses on the next time. When I first looked (without glasses) it appeared solid.
It's tough getting old!

 

[cdbMidland]

Don't feel bad, Bill. I only found out about this at our fall rally. I really felt dumb after having the center in the back seat of the truck for several weeks while I was using the steel wheeled spare to run on.

 

[Netem]

Chuck, you say go easy on the grease. Do you have anything you go by like the number of pumps and how often you do it? How about the type of grease to use.

 

[jnbhobe]

E-Z lube hubs

Just my 2 cents worth here. I've had e-z lube hubs on my last three units now and I don't like'm. First because you don't know how many pumps to use or how much grease you really need. Second all the mfgs. use cheep chinese single lip seals, and the grease slips by then on to the brakes.I use National or CR seals that are double lipped and hand pack the bearings.I use Valvoline #427 grease.Then you can adjust the brakes at the same time.I know this is the hard way but its the right way,you know what you have and hopefully avoid a breakdown.JMTCW Jon

 

[cdbMidland]

Neil, I have not done mine, and I concur with Jon's reply. I think it is good advice.

 

[Netem]

Thanks Jon and Chuck

 

[caissiel]

I am on my 1st trip south with my new RV and already the failed seals are giving me major brake problems. Had to clean all the shoes and internal parts and again the brakes are not satisfactory. I feel that these hubs are for the ease of assembly as they can install the units and then pump the grease. Mine had 1 crocked seal, and 2 more seals damanged with hammer blows. The rubber part of the seals are not true with the hub thus pumping grease out. I am stopping on monday to a Heartland service center and try to have it fixed under warranty. I feel its a clean way to add the grease on the inside between the 2 bearings while doing a repacking with the hubs removal procedure. I would only pump grease with the outer bearings out of place in order not to create pressure on the seals. I love the old fasion method, No need to do it the lazy way. Remember that boat trailers in the water have no brakes.

 

[lwmcguir]

The attachment notes the proper grease. It is really important to have the tire/hub turning when you pump the grease. Watch for the old grease to come through the hub. I find that a good grease gun will change the grease adequately in 3-4 pumps. Only needs to be done in 6-10k intervals however.

 

[lwmcguir]

I should have noted on the prior post, the 3-4 pumps is enough if the hub/bearings were properly filled/packed to begin with. You need to see grease coming out the front bearing when you add more grease. You don't want to pump it past the seals onto the brake lining as some of the posters noted. Judgment call here and as they stated new CR or National seals and off the Coach cant be beat.