Electrically Operated Valves

JanAndBill

Well-known member
Our BH is just over a year old and the cable operated valves have been a pain since we got. Shortly after we took possession the black tank valve started leaking bad. Took it to the dealer, and apparently a piece of plastic left in the tank during manufacturing had lodged in the valve. New valve, stopped the problem for a bit but all of them are hard to open and close. Now the leak is back, and this morning I guess the strain was to much on the black tank cable, because it slipped out of where it goes into the handle. I was able to use the quick fix found here on the forums to hold it temporarily until I can order a new cable. Bottom line though I've never been satisfied with the cable system. If I have to pull the bottom down to replace the cable, I'm thinking seriously about putting in one of these http://drainmaster.com/site/products/full-view/165 Camping World has a similar model for about the same price. Anyone have any experience with these????
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
I have no experience with electric gate valves, but get the Drain Master brand if you can. I know the owner of that company and he is passionate about "getting it right" when he designs and manufactures product.

One thing to bear in mind on a 5th wheel is that you may not likely get the electric valve installed in the ideal position. Ideal if the blade operates in a vertical motion (up and down). This makes for a better clean-out and less debris remaining on the blade track per Doug Swarts (Drain Master). But as we know, all of our manual valves are installed for a horizontal (side to side) operation and they do work.

Maybe your black tank is mounted such that you can get the electric valve mounted vertically.

Wishing you all the best on this and do let us know if you go electric and how it works out. May want to put the switch only in the UDC so you never hit it accidentally in the switch panel area in the RV.
 

dbbls59

Well-known member
I had experience with Drain Master when it first came out. It worked good until there was water against the valve then it didn't work. The company replaced it and the replacement didn't work any better. Unless they have made big improvements I'll never have another electric valve.
 

For20hunter

Pacific Region Directors-Retired
My dad put it on his Bighorn for his black tank 2.5 years ago and has not had a single problem with it that I am aware of and they live in it 6 months per year.
 

JanAndBill

Well-known member
Jim, according to their site, the ideal position could be anywhere between 10 and 2 o'clock. The instructions also say that yearly maintenance involving dis-assembly of the valve is suggested. That's a pretty big deal considering where the valve is located.
 

TedS

Well-known member
I think your time and money would be better spent doing a proper cable routing, eliminating excess cable and tight cable bends.
 

JanAndBill

Well-known member
When I pulled the bulkhead to make a temporary repair, I did note that there is a "LOT" of excess cable. I suspect that a shorter cable with less bends would be easier to operate. If I order a new one from Heartland is it going to be the same length? Is there a way to shorten it???
 

RoadJunkie

Well-known member
The root of the problem you described, the residual plastic piece, would have likely caused either type of valve to fail, electric or cable-driven. The nature of material passing through the open valve, organic or paper product, May at some time interfere with effective valve performance when operating to the closed position. The cable-driven valve allows me to feel the movement of the valve position--in motion--and avoid forcing the valve should an obstruction occur. You can't ignore that sensory feedback and should stop and flush/back flush until the obstruction is removed. I feel the cable-driven valve design is sound and the electric valve would not be beneficial nor does the benefit justify the expense.
 

TedS

Well-known member
The cables can be shortened. Pull the core out enough to clear the outer cover to where you want to cut it. After the cut reshape the cover to open round shape. Push the core back in and cut it to the length you need. The core should be 4 to 6 inches longer than the cover so there is enough stroke to fully open the valve.
 

Lynn1130

Well-known member
I think there is another thread on this topic somewhere here and the general feeling, mine included, was that electric dump valves were something that would turn a minor fix (cables) into a major fix should something go wrong. And it will go wrong at some point. Probably when you are the farthest from a place that can repair or trouble shoot it.
 

kypilot

Member
I installed on of the electric Valterra valves last year and I could not be happier. I fought the manual valve way too long. I replaced the cable, ran it in a different path and it would work for a little while and then it would start acting up again. Since the installation I have had zero problems. I highly recommend switching out to the electric.
 
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