Fridge Freezer not working
- Thread starter 3greens
- Start date
Hi 3greens,
Welcome to the forum and thank you for buying a Heartland!
I'm not familiar with the Prowler line but I suggest this:
Welcome to the forum and thank you for buying a Heartland!
I'm not familiar with the Prowler line but I suggest this:
- Check to make sure the refer is plugged into AC power (usually behind the refer - accessed from the outside)
- Check to make sure the control panel works on the refer - this ensures there is 12 VDC to the unit. If not, check fuses in the fuse panel and behind the refer
- Does your refer allow Propane operation? If it does, will it cool down using propane?
Are you sure that there is 120 volts getting to your trailer?
The refer receptacle may be tied into the GFI normally found in the bathroom. Try resetting that GFI.
And one more thing would be to check the breakers. Do not rely on a visual. Turn them off then on again.
Let us know what you find.
Peace
Dave
The refer receptacle may be tied into the GFI normally found in the bathroom. Try resetting that GFI.
And one more thing would be to check the breakers. Do not rely on a visual. Turn them off then on again.
Let us know what you find.
Peace
Dave
Hey Dave, yes power to the trailer, AC works, microwave, lights, etc...we called our dealer who advised us to turn on the gas...Mrs. states it is starting to get cold...just not sure why it wasn't when it was plugged in...we will try turning the breaker off on and see if that doesn't reset it, Thanks 3greens-Artie
Thanks Dan & Ann...it is a balmy 71 up here so I might be able to rule out heat...the whole thing is weird...only been a couple hours on gas...see if that works...still confused as to why it won't work plugged in...had the Mrs. turn off/on breakers just to make sure...so any other suggestions I am all ears
danemayer
Well-known member
3greens,
All these ammonia-based refrigerators need a couple of things to cool properly.
- need to be pretty level because there's a gravity flow tubing system on the back that won't work if it's much off level
- need ventilation around the back so the heat transferred from inside to outside has somewhere to go.
- need a good seal on the doors so there are no air leaks.
- need up to 12 hours to get cold
- need airflow inside the frig
- need to heat the ammonia solution inside the cooling unit, either with the electric heater or the LP heater.
If all works well on LP, but not on electric, it usually means there's a problem with the electric heater. The most likely cause is lack of 110V power to the heater.
Most refrigerators have 2 modes: auto and LP. In auto mode, it tries to run on 110V, and if there's no power, it switches automatically to LP. Sounds like yours is not doing that, so either it's not an automatic switchover, or it has 110V but just isn't cooling well. Check the outlet the frig plugs into: with a voltmeter, a non-contact voltage tester, or by plugging a known good appliance into the outlet. If the outlet is working, you might have a blown fuse on the refrigerator's control board. Or the electric heating unit may not be working. Probably need a dealer tech to help at this point.
All these ammonia-based refrigerators need a couple of things to cool properly.
- need to be pretty level because there's a gravity flow tubing system on the back that won't work if it's much off level
- need ventilation around the back so the heat transferred from inside to outside has somewhere to go.
- need a good seal on the doors so there are no air leaks.
- need up to 12 hours to get cold
- need airflow inside the frig
- need to heat the ammonia solution inside the cooling unit, either with the electric heater or the LP heater.
If all works well on LP, but not on electric, it usually means there's a problem with the electric heater. The most likely cause is lack of 110V power to the heater.
Most refrigerators have 2 modes: auto and LP. In auto mode, it tries to run on 110V, and if there's no power, it switches automatically to LP. Sounds like yours is not doing that, so either it's not an automatic switchover, or it has 110V but just isn't cooling well. Check the outlet the frig plugs into: with a voltmeter, a non-contact voltage tester, or by plugging a known good appliance into the outlet. If the outlet is working, you might have a blown fuse on the refrigerator's control board. Or the electric heating unit may not be working. Probably need a dealer tech to help at this point.
Lynn1130
Well-known member
You don't say (that I saw) and no one mentioned that I can see, checking the control on the front of the fridg. Assuming that it has the same control on the front that mine has, is it in the auto or gas mode? If in the gas mode it will not work on 120V. It has to be in the auto mode. If in the off mode it is off. Neither gas or power will work.
Sorry, I see that danemeyer mentions the same thing.
Sorry, I see that danemeyer mentions the same thing.
Thenomads
Active Member
Hello 3greens,
We previously owned a 1997 SOB that periodically required us to unplug and then re-plug in the refrigerator at the outside plug behind the refrigerator louver. This often happened after a recent wash (but not always). Not sure why, but moisture?, dust?, road vibration? Everything looked fine and the plug fit snug. But it always worked after this procedure. Hopefully you have an easy fix to your problem. By the way, it is 71 at your place it is 107 here! 71 is sounding pretty good!
Corey
We previously owned a 1997 SOB that periodically required us to unplug and then re-plug in the refrigerator at the outside plug behind the refrigerator louver. This often happened after a recent wash (but not always). Not sure why, but moisture?, dust?, road vibration? Everything looked fine and the plug fit snug. But it always worked after this procedure. Hopefully you have an easy fix to your problem. By the way, it is 71 at your place it is 107 here! 71 is sounding pretty good!
Corey
Corey, you can keep the heat...the fridge has power, light is on, just not cooling, you can even hear it running...I unplugged it from the house for 30-45 mins then plugged it back in after making sure it was level. So we hope that works.
Lynn, it didn't work in auto or gas...light on inside - no cool...control on front very easy auto off gas...my kinda of panel
Brett, thanks for the post
Dan & Ann printed off you notes and will double check all fuses...the main fuse panel inside looked great; no red lights on and no tripped breakers
Lynn, it didn't work in auto or gas...light on inside - no cool...control on front very easy auto off gas...my kinda of panel
Brett, thanks for the post
Dan & Ann printed off you notes and will double check all fuses...the main fuse panel inside looked great; no red lights on and no tripped breakers
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