Front door 90 degree strut

[nfa1eab]

I have a 2015 RW305. It has the gas strut on the garage side entrance door but not on the front door. Any reason why this could not be added to the front door? It is a pain going in and out when windy without it. I don't understand the small plastic stay to keep the door fully open. There is no screen door, door has window with screen. I would never leave door completely open, but being able to pull handle and let go of the door would be helpful when carrying items in or out. Any thoughts?

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[IronJ]

I'm on strut replacement #2 from my daughter opening door and letting it "go"...the strut ends are plastic and not made to be door stops...after a few "let gos" it will snap the plastic end off...

My door also will smack the awning arm if let go...

Maybe if you had 2 struts...top and bottom it might work..

I have the screen and the door with window...I leave door open but with strut it only opens to 90 degrees...there is no way to secure it open...

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[JohnD]

I'm still searching for a way to get rid of that strut.

When the door is open, if the wind blows a little strong the door slams shut!

Not too mention that if the wind blows the door the other direction it will rip the screws right out of the door and the side wall above the entrance.

 

[Sawdocmd]

I bought one from camping world seemed stronger than the oem strut.


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[IronJ]

I'm still searching for a way to get rid of that strut.

When the door is open, if the wind blows a little strong the door slams shut!

Not too mention that if the wind blows the door the other direction it will rip the screws right out of the door and the side wall above the entrance.

Ditto...there is no way to hold it open at 90 degrees so it don't slam shut

My brackets bend but haven't ripped out...the plastic head on the shock breaks..

Both my replacements were from camping world...this last one I got is a 40lb strut....the original was 15lb I think...we shall see!!

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[JohnD]

I bought one from camping world seemed stronger than the oem strut.

I like to have the door open all the way as opposed to having it stick straight out as we don't get any air flow through the screen door, plus it is like a tunnel between the slide and the open door.



I ended up drilling three holes through the door and putting lock bolts to hold it together.



All last summer we had to C-clamp the door to the awning rail to keep it open, but since the door overlaps the awning rail by about two inches, the awning couldn't be used.

However, with the awning out, I could bungee cord the door to the awning rail, but we had a rain storm with the door bungeed to it, and when the auto-drain dropped the awning to drain out the water, it hit the top of the door and bent the awning rail.



I personally think this is a design flaw and if the whole awning was moved to the front about 2 1/2 inches (there is room), this whole mess could have been avoided and the much preferred plastic door latches could have been used instead.

Shot below is the door screws pulling out of the door before I fixed it.

 

[alwaysbusy]

Ditto...there is no way to hold it open at 90 degrees so it don't slam shut

My brackets bend but haven't ripped out...the plastic head on the shock breaks..

Both my replacements were from camping world...this last one I got is a 40lb strut....the original was 15lb I think...we shall see!!

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IronJ, were the CW 40 lbs plug n play or did you have to modify?

 

[IronJ]

Same size...if you go up there they have em arranged by strut length...and within that is a few different strut strengths

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[alwaysbusy]

Thank you sir.

 

[JohnD]

I've thought about getting a longer strut so that the door would open up further, but not sure if that would allow the door to close all the way.