Greasing and repacking of Dexter axles

We have a Landmark with the Dexter axles. How often does everyone have the axles repacked and greased? I have heard many different opinions.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I believe the maintenance schedule calls for 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever comes first.
 

dave10a

Well-known member
The mfg recommendation of once per year is a bit conservative, but should be follow. Also do not use the Easy Lube and make sure who ever packs your bearings does not cheat and grease them via easy lube. it would be a good idea to replace the easy lube zerks with plugs to make sure they are not used. Easy lube is a bad joke perpetuated by marketing to make one think they can avoid packing the ol' fashion and proven way.
 
B

Boatman

Guest
Speaking from personal experience, its easier to pack them in the driveway, than it is on the shoulder of a road. I clean and pack mine once a year, ignoring the mileage. Good luck on all your future travels.
 

ksucats

Well-known member
I have to admit that I'm not 'disc brake' literate so anyone have pictures / seen a video repacking Dexter axles with Dexter disc brakes. They look to be quite different than the kodiak / titan assemblies. I know they sure cost a lot more if one is damaged. :rolleyes:
 

RoadJunkie

Well-known member
What do you see as differences between the Dexter brake rotors and the other options related to packing the axle bearings? From my experience, the process should be the same.
 

ksucats

Well-known member
When I read the pamphlet that came with my coach it showed the calipers as being 'floating' with both sides having pistons. If I read the instructions correctly it looks like I have to remove a brake line from between the two calipers to release fluid pressure before the caliper can be removed from the rotor. I've never seen such a thing in my limited automotive days and it is definitely not like the rotors used by Kodiak / Titan. Almost looks like it has four pistons.

Definitely different part numbers and pads - cost is way more for both as well.
 

Oldelevatorman

Well-known member
We had ours repacked after a year on our Landmark and then found out they put 7000# axles instead of 8000#. Dexter sent me the right size axles and I had them installed so whoever gets the 7's has new bearings! So we drove cross country and back to CA on undersized axles.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Gary521

Well-known member
When I read the pamphlet that came with my coach it showed the calipers as being 'floating' with both sides having pistons. If I read the instructions correctly it looks like I have to remove a brake line from between the two calipers to release fluid pressure before the caliper can be removed from the rotor. I've never seen such a thing in my limited automotive days and it is definitely not like the rotors used by Kodiak / Titan. Almost looks like it has four pistons.

Definitely different part numbers and pads - cost is way more for both as well.

There are two types of disk brakes, One is the floating caliper ( Kodiak/Titan ) and the other is Fixed caliper ( Dexter ). The floating caliper has one large piston that presses against the pads and this moves the opposite side of the caliper. The fixed caliper has multiple pistons on both sides of the caliper. The fixed caliper is used in high performance cars, the floating caliper is cheaper to make. No matter what type you have, you still need to remove the caliper off the rotor to grease the bearings, if you are hand packing.
 

ksucats

Well-known member
Ah - I got the two reversed - :confused: - regardless, taking the caliper off still looks like I have to remove a brake fluid line between the two sides. That doesn't make sense to me as it will introduce air to the system requiring bleeding of the lines again (replacing brake fluid may not be a bad thing I guess) but again, above my experience level. Guess I'll try one once the weather settles down; if I find it too confusing I will look for a shop to do it.

Thanks to all for your replies - wishing you all safe travels and great adventures.
 

jimtoo

Moderator
Ah - I got the two reversed - :confused: - regardless, taking the caliper off still looks like I have to remove a brake fluid line between the two sides. That doesn't make sense to me as it will introduce air to the system requiring bleeding of the lines again (replacing brake fluid may not be a bad thing I guess) but again, above my experience level. Guess I'll try one once the weather settles down; if I find it too confusing I will look for a shop to do it.

Thanks to all for your replies - wishing you all safe travels and great adventures.


You should not need to remove or disconnect a brake line to pack wheel bearings. The caliper should be mounted with a flexible line (rubber) attached to it. It should have plenty of room to remove caliper and hang from frame with wire or place caliper on spring or something while you remove rotor and pack bearings. Just don't let caliper hang on the brake hose.

Jim M
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Jim, I have seen some installs that use the flex line on one side of the axle with a solid line running across the axle right to the opposite caliper.
I have also seen the flex line going to the center of the axle with solid going to each caliper from there.
Not the best method, in my opinion, but it all works.

Peace
Dave
 

ksucats

Well-known member
I'm looking at the dexter brake guide right now and see where the 8K axle is supposed to have the 'fixed' caliper assembly (http://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/defa...9211829d2ba463c18d7aff64007a4014.pdf?sfvrsn=0 ) page 27. On page 36 of the document it states "For brakes produced after April 2008, locate the crossover brake line threaded into the bottom side of both calipers. The crossover brake line is attached to the inboard side of the anchore yoke using a metal tube clamp. Remove the 1/4 - 20 bolt that connects the tube clamp to the yoke (emphasis added)' The reinstallation instructions give the torque in inch pounds for replacing that line. It just gets more interesting with everything I read. Have wife standing over me right now and I told her it might just be easier to get MorRyde IS with Kodiak / Titan disc brakes. :cool::cool:

Again, thanks to all.
 

jimtoo

Moderator
For the caliper that has pistons on each side of the brake disc that might be OK, but I would not want it installed like that. For the caliper that has pistons on one side only it should not be allowed. Every time brakes are applied the caliper must move from 1/16" to 1/8" on the mounting bolts to apply brake pads to rotor. So these must have a flexible line to caliper.

Jim M
 

RoadJunkie

Well-known member
I'm looking at the dexter brake guide right now and see where the 8K axle is supposed to have the 'fixed' caliper assembly (http://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/defa...9211829d2ba463c18d7aff64007a4014.pdf?sfvrsn=0 ) page 27. On page 36 of the document it states "For brakes produced after April 2008, locate the crossover brake line threaded into the bottom side of both calipers. The crossover brake line is attached to the inboard side of the anchore yoke using a metal tube clamp. Remove the 1/4 - 20 bolt that connects the tube clamp to the yoke (emphasis added)' The reinstallation instructions give the torque in inch pounds for replacing that line. It just gets more interesting with everything I read. Have wife standing over me right now and I told her it might just be easier to get MorRyde IS with Kodiak / Titan disc brakes. :cool::cool:

Again, thanks to all.

I learn something new everyday...I had never experienced a fixed caliper assembly. I'm wondering how the suspension floats with such a set up. Oh well, good luck, I have the Titan system and they are a breeze to maintain.
 

ksucats

Well-known member
The brake line from the coach to the wheel assembly is flexible hose - the hard steel line does not run to the wheel. The line they are talking about is a short steel line between the two parts (left and right side) of the caliper -Best I've been able to get explained to me is that you pull the short piece loose which lets the brake fluid pressure in the pistons release and then, hopefully, you can pull the caliper away from the rotor. If, perhaps, the rotor has worn and the brake pads are inside of a groove, then you get to use some type of tool to open the gap a bit by pressing on the pistons, releasing more brake fluid, so that you can pull the caliper away from the rotor.

I stopped by our local GoodYear truck dealer today at lunch (they have worked on my prior coach and work on other trailers) and asked them about it. Basically was told - 'Oh no'; and bring your wallet. Then he added that parts may not even be locally available as he looked over a sheet that Titan Man was good enough to send me several months back. Guess I'm going to have to get my old coveralls out of the closet and do some investigating once the weather calms down a bit. Just don't want to have an non-functional coach sitting at the house :eek:.
 

Gary521

Well-known member
The brake line from the coach to the wheel assembly is flexible hose - the hard steel line does not run to the wheel. The line they are talking about is a short steel line between the two parts (left and right side) of the caliper -Best I've been able to get explained to me is that you pull the short piece loose which lets the brake fluid pressure in the pistons release and then, hopefully, you can pull the caliper away from the rotor. If, perhaps, the rotor has worn and the brake pads are inside of a groove, then you get to use some type of tool to open the gap a bit by pressing on the pistons, releasing more brake fluid, so that you can pull the caliper away from the rotor.

I stopped by our local GoodYear truck dealer today at lunch (they have worked on my prior coach and work on other trailers) and asked them about it. Basically was told - 'Oh no'; and bring your wallet. Then he added that parts may not even be locally available as he looked over a sheet that Titan Man was good enough to send me several months back. Guess I'm going to have to get my old coveralls out of the closet and do some investigating once the weather calms down a bit. Just don't want to have an non-functional coach sitting at the house :eek:.

I see no reason why you cannot pry the piston back into it's bore to remove the caliper. I have fixed calipers on one of my cars and this process is doable. If the brake fluid was putting pressure on the caliper pistons, you would get brake drag.
 

ksucats

Well-known member
Well, to update. Ended up taking the coach to one of the Dexter authorized dealers in KC, KS. They did a complete repack of the bearings (nothing found out of order :cool: so that was good) but did have to rebleed the brakes. Noticed that the coach doesn't seem to stop as well as before at the same gain setting so figure I'll have to rebleed them before we travel -- I was told by the dealership that they recommended I do so as well. Cost was a hair over $250.00 for everything.
 
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