GVWR clarification on 3010

recumbent615

Founding MA Chapter Leader-retired
Sorry but couldn't help notice... Does that label say "10" psi for the tires?

yes it does - but the label below stays 110 psi! I'm guessing that the program that printed that top label did not know how to deal with 3 char in the field. Programing Error
 

TwoGypsies

Well-known member
Correction. Found this in the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards:
"S10.1 On motor homes, the sum of the gross axle weight ratings (GAWR) of all axles on the vehicle must not be less than the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). S10.2 On RV trailers, the sum of the GAWRs of all axles on the vehicle plus the vehicle manufacturer's recommended tongue weight must not be less than the GVWR. If tongue weight is specified as a range, the minimum value must be used."
So, the GVWR can exceed the total GAWR on a fifth wheel trailer. Looks like my annual mistake came early this year....
 

porthole

Retired
Some trailers use axle ratings as GVWR, some use axle and pin box specs as GVWR. And there doesn't seem to be a particular reason that is public, one way or the other.
 

DW_Gray

Well-known member
Getting back to Jetskier's OP:

Sorry, you learned a hard lesson. Since the end of manufacturing the 2009 Cyclone 4012, the maximum GVWR on the largest Cyclones is now 18K pounds. I think that occurred when questions arose about the 4012's GVWR being 20,400 pounds while the pin box and frame is only rated at 18K. I think all the pin boxes are rated at 18K and therefore is the weakest link. My Trail Air Tri Glide Air Ride Pin Box is also rated 18K, therefore if someone really wanted to push the issue, my GVWR would be reduced to 18K. If that happened, I'd ignore it or have give up my smart car.

You're right; it makes no since to advertise that the garage can hold 2,500 pounds. Of course garage can, but leave your food, water and belongings at home.

I'll stop now before I step up higher on my soapbox.
 

Jetskier

Member
CycyloneLoaded.jpg

Update... got it loaded for the first trip. Built a rack that mounts in place of the bottom bed and raises up to the ceiling when not in use or rests on a frame mounted to the walls when down that allow the skis to pivot when you lower the bunk below the pivot point to load using an extension (plugs into the back of the rack and extends to the bottom of the ramp door) and the remote operated winches mounted on the front of the rack, making it a one man job. Upper bed can still be picked up with the rack and brought down to the normal position for use. Works really slick and am really happy I can put the rack up and still have a full garage at the races once unloaded.

Hopefully it holds up to the highway test. Leaving this week for a race in Florida, then Alabama the following weekend. It'll be a two week trip, so hopefully no issues!

Oh and some other mods that I can't understand why are not standard on a toyhauler...
-Added an outsid outlet on the doorside at the garage to charge the skis
-Added a hose bib on the doorside of the garage to flush and wash skis
-got a small 2 gallon air compressor
-added a 2nd outlet over the kitchen counter just behind the stupidly located one from the factory to the cords aren't hanging out in the middle.
-17.5 wheels and goodyear tires

Would love light switches in practical locations but a little hard to do at this stage. You would think the factory could offer this??? I would gladly pay the extra money to have it built better than the cheapest way! Like others have said, love the central vac point located in the center of the storage compartment...maybe next year if I pull everything out I'll look inot relocating it to one side so I can use it.

Was really dissappointed with the dealer prep when I picked this thing up... It was not washed (they did a quick job well I waited). The interior was poorly cleaned, after the first trip down the road, the floor was full of saw dust because they never vacumed above the cabinets. A screw was broken on the upper molding around the garage door, so when I pointed it out they said they would take care of it - when I looked at it, instead of taking the old screw out the guy put another one in on an angle next to it so now the trim didn't fit correctly, and didn't even caulk the gap. At the first stop down the road, the same screw on the front door snaped leaving the trim sticking out. Fixed everything correctly when I got home, but very dissappointed with the dealer and felt like I was pushed out the door. They didn't even help hitching it up, even after I told them I had no experience with a fith wheel. I guess that is what you sacrifice when you buy at the dealer that gave the lowest price.

It's ashame when you pay these prices, you have to deal with all the stupid little issues. Good thing is I did expect them, this is not my first toyhauler. So outside of all my little complaints, I really do like the trailer and look forward to getting to use it this week.
 

porthole

Retired
-added a 2nd outlet over the kitchen counter just behind the stupidly located one from the factory to the cords aren't hanging out in the middle.


That was supposed to be corrected 3 years ago when mine was taken care of at the plant.

It is in a bad location and a hazard - especially if something like a coffee pot is plugged in.
 

DW_Gray

Well-known member
Hi Jetskier,

Nice garage setup. I'm am a little concerned about the jet ski rack you built. If I recall correctly, the Happijac load ratings is 600 pounds static and 450 pounds dynamic.
 

Jetskier

Member
Hi Jetskier,

Nice garage setup. I'm am a little concerned about the jet ski rack you built. If I recall correctly, the Happijac load ratings is 600 pounds static and 450 pounds dynamic.

It only uses the happy jack to lift the empty rack up out of the way or to pivot the skis that are pretty much balanced on the pivot point... you could pivot them with one hand. but by lowering it, it allows it to pivot. Hard to explain. If I get a opportunity I will get a pick of the side pieces... they take the wieght of the skis, but A picture would probably explain it better.
 

Jetskier

Member
That was supposed to be corrected 3 years ago when mine was taken care of at the plant.

It is in a bad location and a hazard - especially if something like a coffee pot is plugged in.

Yeah, I don't get it! Ideally it would be on the wall... but that is too difficult at this point. It would require zero extra effort to move it towards the back of the cabinets rather then placing it where they did.
 

porthole

Retired
Heartland trailers are laminated side walls, they are built up in another plant. - that is the reason you don't see outlets in the exterior walls.

They are all in cabinets (there is a hollow space between the inside bottom and outside bottom) and in the perpendicular interior walls.

"RV" receptacle are "special". They don't need a box and the wires don't need to be held on with screws. Shallow application and fast to install.
 

Jetskier

Member
That explains why they're not in the wall, but not why they haven't moved it back closer to the wall. Seems careless, unless maybe their is some sort of code or reason they can't put it where it makes more logical sense? Oh well, it cost about $8 for an outlet and a foot of wire and the problem is solved....now I can run the coffe maker, toaster, blender, and crok pot all at one time with the exrtra outlet LOL.
 

porthole

Retired
Look like this?

This was done at the factory before I left for home.

And the plant manager told me then it would be a running change.

2nd pic is a RV outlet.
 

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Porkchop

Well-known member
Look like this?

This was done at the factory before I left for home.

And the plant manager told me then it would be a running change.

2nd pic is a RV outlet.


you have two outlets under the cabinet? I think I only have one.

ill have to look again when we use it this weekend.
 

Jetskier

Member
Look like this?

This was done at the factory before I left for home.

And the plant manager told me then it would be a running change.

2nd pic is a RV outlet.

Pretty much exactly, other than mine are black. Apparantly they went back to the old way for 2013.
 

Vtxkid

Well-known member
you have two outlets under the cabinet? I think I only have one.

ill have to look again when we use it this weekend.
I believe Duane installed or had the second outlet installed because of the same issue ... I will have to look now and see what position mine is in also since it is a 2011...
 

porthole

Retired
The two outlets under my cabinet: The one closest to the wall was put there by the factory when I was haveing some other repairs done. I balked about the out in the middle outlet as being a safety issue.
I demonstrated with a coffee pot wire and got the message across. At the time "Tom" was plant manager and said he was going to make that a running change.

The reason I have two is; I was asked and agreed to leaving the original outlet and just adding a second. Otherwise the cabinet would have to be taken down.
 

recumbent615

Founding MA Chapter Leader-retired
The two outlets under my cabinet: The one closest to the wall was put there by the factory when I was haveing some other repairs done. I balked about the out in the middle outlet as being a safety issue.
I demonstrated with a coffee pot wire and got the message across. At the time "Tom" was plant manager and said he was going to make that a running change.

Duane,

Well at least for some time after you got your Rig they did move the outlet because I only have one and it is at the wall.

IMG_0880.jpg
 
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