hello folks, i have a equalizer wd hitch trying set it up correctly

[nostrokin]

my tow vehicle is a 2011 2500ram , 4x4 diesel , I just got a 27foot tt 6502 dry weight trail runner. I have a e2 by fastway wdh 10000lbs max . without chains. when I pull down the highway it always feels bouncy .do I have to much tension on the bars or not enough. the truck is only dropping about a half inch when hooked up to the trailer , the trailer Is level. any info would be great.

 

[Doublegranch]

My dealer set up my WD hitch level to my Ram....Are you asking about the height of the hitch on the truck or referring to the hook up of the WD bars??? Once your TT is hooked up to your truck, you need to then jack up the trailer tongue with your trailer jack and lift the rear end of your truck up prior to hooking up your WD bars..then release the jack down and the truck should be level...then you adjust your sway bar with the unit straight and level to where it is snug not overly tight and then back it off about a half turn...I have the chain system, your system should be very similar.

Not sure if this is what you are asking, but hope it helps you....I also have a 21fbs and love it....If you have the tow max tires, be sure to get rid of them fast....also some North Trails came with bias tires in error vs radial, make sure you have radial or your tires will wear on the inside as per Lippert their axles are not designed for bias which has a different camper than a radial.

 

['Lil Guy']

Ideally, if you back your truck up to the level TT, the ball should be at the same height as the receive on the TT or a little higher. Measure your wheel wells from top to ground on TV front and rear and try to maintain that ratio with the chains and tension bars while keeping your TT level. There is some good stuff on youtube about it. On my 1014 Ram 2500CTD I had to buy the longest ball receiver for my truck do to it's height and it seemed a little too high even then. That rig ought to tow good behind that truck. Keep us posted as to what you do. With your TT level, I sure would like to see a pic of the ball on your truck backed up to the TT but not hooked up. I'll bet your ball receiver for the truck doesn't have enough drop for the 4X4 height.

 

[nostrokin]

I also purchased a longer shaft for the head , it has plenty of adjustment now. and it is longer also , that way it sticks out farther so I can open the tailgate while hooked up to tt. but on my hitch I have no chains. and the problem I am having is it feels bouncy while driving. that makes me think I have to much bar tension , almost like setting the chain to tight if I had them

 

[nostrokin]

the hitch I have is e2 by fastway. it is a trunnion bar wdh, sorry for the mix up

 

[zombiejeep]

I have the E2 hitch, but with the round bar. I set it up per the instructions and took the measurements like it said. Afterwards, since I was newer to a WD hitch at the time, I stopped in my dealer the next time I went by for a check. They verified that it was set up right. The E2 is made by the same people as Equal-I-zer I believe, Progress manufacturing. Just curious, is the trailer loaded like it would be during the season?

 

[nostrokin]

I have the E2 hitch, but with the round bar. I set it up per the instructions and took the measurements like it said. Afterwards, since I was newer to a WD hitch at the time, I stopped in my dealer the next time I went by for a check. They verified that it was set up right. The E2 is made by the same people as Equal-I-zer I believe, Progress manufacturing. Just curious, is the trailer loaded like it would be during the season?

yes it is loaded right. I think I have to much tension on the bars or the head angle is tilted to much . I really have to raise the set up pretty high to get the bars locked in place

 

[Silverado23]

my tow vehicle is a 2011 2500ram , 4x4 diesel , I just got a 27foot tt 6502 dry weight trail runner. I have a e2 by fastway wdh 10000lbs max . without chains. when I pull down the highway it always feels bouncy .do I have to much tension on the bars or not enough. the truck is only dropping about a half inch when hooked up to the trailer , the trailer Is level. any info would be great.

Do you have a lot of play in the hitch shank and receiver? I have a more bounce since I upgraded from my 1500 to my 2500HD. The hitch receiver is 2-1/2 inch and uses a sleeve adapter for the 2inch equalizer hitch shank that I think is adding to my trouble. I will upgrade to a 2-1/2 inch shank soon and hope this reduces the bounce for me.

 

[JohnD]

Do you have a lot of play in the hitch shank and receiver? I have a more bounce since I upgraded from my 1500 to my 2500HD. The hitch receiver is 2-1/2 inch and uses a sleeve adapter for the 2inch equalizer hitch shank that I think is adding to my trouble. I will upgrade to a 2-1/2 inch shank soon and hope this reduces the bounce for me.

My 2015 Chevy Silverado 2500HD also has the Class V receiver with the Class IV adapter . . .

I don't get any bounce from it . . . but it does make some clanking sounds every once in a while.

I thought about upgrading all of my WD stuff to Class V, but would have been $1000+ for stuff I already have in Class IV.

I have a DrawTite WD setup with a Reese sway bar that we had with our old Coachman TT and it works good with our Trail Runner.

 

[Silverado23]

My 2015 Chevy Silverado 2500HD also has the Class V receiver with the Class IV adapter . . .

I don't get any bounce from it . . . but it does make some clanking sounds every once in a while.

I thought about upgrading all of my WD stuff to Class V, but would have been $1000+ for stuff I already have in Class IV.

I have a DrawTite WD setup with a Reese sway bar that we had with our old Coachman TT and it works good with our Trail Runner.

View attachment 36087

I think all it would take for me to upgrade is a new shank at $150, so It may be what I end up doing. The only bounce I get tends to be on a really rough section of road on the way to one of my favorite campgrounds.

The bigger issue is if I forget the adapter sleeve. Then I cannot use the hitch.

 

[JohnD]

I think all it would take for me to upgrade is a new shank at $150, so It may be what I end up doing. The only bounce I get tends to be on a really rough section of road on the way to one of my favorite campgrounds.

I looked at doing that, but by switching to a Class V shank, none of my WD stuff would attach to it . . . apparently a completely different system.

Which meant I also would have to get all of the WD stuff as well.

The bigger issue is if I forget the adapter sleeve. Then I cannot use the hitch.

I always leave my sleeve in the receiver with a ball inserted . . .

I figure that if someone gets too close to me . . . they'll get that ball through their radiator!

 

[zombiejeep]

I'm going to look at the trunion setup a little more, I will admit I am not as familiar with the adjustments with them as the E2 roundbar.

 

[nostrokin]

I think all it would take for me to upgrade is a new shank at $150, so It may be what I end up doing. The only bounce I get tends to be on a really rough section of road on the way to one of my favorite campgrounds.

The bigger issue is if I forget the adapter sleeve. Then I cannot use the hitch.

I had to buy a new shank also , my new truck sits higher than my old f150 did, I picked it up for about 200.00 online but mine is also longer sticking out , that way I can open my tailgate while hooked up

 

[nostrokin]

I'm going to look at the trunion setup a little more, I will admit I am not as familiar with the adjustments with them as the E2 roundbar.

well your round bar hookup doesn't use chains does it? how high are u lifting up on your tongue when hooked to the trailer to get the bars in place

 

[zombiejeep]

well your round bar hookup doesn't use chains does it? how high are u lifting up on your tongue when hooked to the trailer to get the bars in place

No chains. I lift the tongue as high as I can to make it easier to put the bars in place. I have back problems. My dealer says let the jack do as much as it can for me.

 

[pegmikef]

I had a different hitch, but mine specified that the hitch ball top height was supposed 1/8th inch above the tongue's ball cup for each 100 pounds of tongue weight when both the TV and trailer are level. Most of the rigs I have seen worked like this to handle the TV 'squat' that occurs when the trailers full tongue weight is placed on the hitch.

 

[Silverado23]

I looked at doing that, but by switching to a Class V shank, none of my WD stuff would attach to it . . . apparently a completely different system.

Which meant I also would have to get all of the WD stuff as well.


I always leave my sleeve in the receiver with a ball inserted . . .

I figure that if someone gets too close to me . . . they'll get that ball through their radiator!

That is one strong advantage to the Equal-I-zer hitch is the high degree of flexibility in the options of shanks available without having to replace the entire hitch. If you change tow vehicles it is easy to replace the shank with the appropriate sized one with out having to replace the entire hitch.

I though about leaving the sleeve in with a ball but the corrosion around here would eat it away in days.. or rust it solidly in place and no longer removable.

 

[Silverado23]

my tow vehicle is a 2011 2500ram , 4x4 diesel , I just got a 27foot tt 6502 dry weight trail runner. I have a e2 by fastway wdh 10000lbs max . without chains. when I pull down the highway it always feels bouncy .do I have to much tension on the bars or not enough. the truck is only dropping about a half inch when hooked up to the trailer , the trailer Is level. any info would be great.

When both truck and trailer are sitting level and disconnected How much difference in ball height and coupler height is there? You may need the ball raised or lowered so these are similar.
Once they are close, You can add/remove spacers or raise/lower the L-brackets to adjust and fine tune the amount of weight being transferred. Be careful not to over adjust and raise the TV height above the unloaded height.
The Trunnion bars should be roughly parallel to the frame when all is properly adjusted. They may be slightly higher or lower but This can be adjusted by using spacers on the spacer rivet or changing holes for the L-brackets.

The manual for the hitch works through this very well. http://www.fastwaytrailer.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/e2_trunnion_instructions_0212.pdf



I adjusted my hitch so the ball and coupler are similar height and have all the WD adjustment needed. I rarely have to raise the coupler more than an inch or two and can set my bars without tools. Makes it so much easier than having to raise the jack so high and then use the tool to get the bars on.

 

[nostrokin]

When both truck and trailer are sitting level and disconnected How much difference in ball height and coupler height is there? You may need the ball raised or lowered so these are similar.
Once they are close, You can add/remove spacers or raise/lower the L-brackets to adjust and fine tune the amount of weight being transferred. Be careful not to over adjust and raise the TV height above the unloaded height.
The Trunnion bars should be roughly parallel to the frame when all is properly adjusted. They may be slightly higher or lower but This can be adjusted by using spacers on the spacer rivet or changing holes for the L-brackets.

The manual for the hitch works through this very well. http://www.fastwaytrailer.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/e2_trunnion_instructions_0212.pdf



I adjusted my hitch so the ball and coupler are similar height and have all the WD adjustment needed. I rarely have to raise the coupler more than an inch or two and can set my bars without tools. Makes it so much easier than having to raise the jack so high and then use the tool to get the bars on.

cool, now we are getting somewhere , thank you, I have been having to raise it about 4 inches to get the bars in place . I just reset the head it was about 2 inches higher than the trailer. now they are just about the same, while unhooked. I will finish up tomorrow getting dark, but thanks

 

[Silverado23]

Good to hear your making progress. It takes some time to make all the adjustments but once their made and you did it your self it will be much easier to make further adjustments if necessary. Take the time to get it setup the way you want and then it will be really an easy to hookup the trailer.

As far as the spacers go, It looks like on your hitch 5 spacers is the minimum and 9 max. I would start with 7 spacers and adjust the L brackets first.

then you will be able to raise or lower the L brackets if you need to make minor future adjustment and add or remove a spacer for more adjustment.
If you use the max or min spacers and reach the highest or lowest setting with the L brackets, You may still need to raise or lower the ball a bit.
Follow the instructions in the manual and recording all the measurements will make adjusting the hitch and fine tuning it easier.