How Do You Fill Your Fresh Water Tank?

scottyb

Well-known member
At what rate do you fill your tank? I've always assumed a water hose runs about 7 GPM. I have heard post on where someone damaged theirs due to over-expansion and I worry about this every time I fill it. I probably only fill around 2-3 GPM. Do you fill until it runs out the vent or do you stop when the gauge says FULL.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Scotty, your 2013 probably has the Andersen Valve rather than a gravity fill. If so, I think its vented to prevent damage that pressurized filling might do with the gravity fill system.

Your practice of reducing water flow sounds like a good practice. I would fill based on the gauge rather than the overflow technique. But because the gauges are not terribly accurate, you might want to get an inline meter like this. http://www.amazon.com/RAINWAVE-WATE...1371565953&sr=8-1&keywords=inline+water+meter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

marvmarcy

Well-known member
I have to insert a 1/2" flexible hose into the fill line on the rv or it won't fill properly and keeps pouring water back out. If I don't insert the flex hose it takes very long to put water in, and I can only get about 2/3 full. I fill at full flow until it starts spitting back at me, then I reduce the fill rate until I get consistent backflow or the inside gauge says full.

I think there also is an overflow line on the tank. I don't think here is great risk of bursting the tank unless you pressurize it.
 

Lynn1130

Well-known member
If you fill too fast you can put more water in than the overflow can handle which will over expand the tank(s) and create a major issue not to mention expanding the crossover line and causing leaks there. Ask me how I know :(. This is especially true if you get side tracked and it continues to try to fill after it has reached capacity.

Filling at full hose volume is probably not a good idea. 3-4 gal is a reasonable rate and while it it take longer, you will have fewer issues in the long run.
 

ramdually4100king

Well-known member
My fresh water drain valve is near the fill. I plan on getting some clear tubing and conecting it to the drain then holding the open end of the tubeing above the top of the tank. As you fill the tank the water will rise in the tube and if you know where the top of the tank is you can stop filling before you reach that mark. One can never go wrong with hydro theory.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
The one time I tried putting water into the tank, I had to jam about six feet of hose into the port to get the water past a droop in the line. But since we have only gone to full service sites, it doesn't get used much. I like to keep some water in it in case of CG power failure (rare, but it happens during some storms) so we can still use the toilet. I second Dan's recommendation to get a water meter of some kind. Not only for filling your water tank, but to gage how much water you put back into your black tank after flushing, as well as keeping track on how much water has been processed by your filter system (if you have one) so you know when to change them.
 

Jimsryker

Well-known member
This is a topic that has proven to be a concern to me. When I was thinking of getting my Cyclone, I had read many posts on filling a HL RV and some of the processes I saw posted here had me scratching my head. My old Aljo was pretty straight forward. Put hose in and wait until the overflow port began to spit a bit of water out. That simple. On this forum I saw people saying to wait until you began to see water drip out from under the trailer and then you knew that the tanks were full. What??

My first fill, the gage showed "full" in no time at all. Not knowing how much had been in it to begin with, I took this as gospel and stopped filling. By the end of our second day, the gage was showing empty. It was a 5 day shake down cruise so we were without water for 3 days. Thank goodness the site had public showers.

Here is the important part... When I got back, I began to fill my tanks. I waited and waited and true to form, I began to see water drip out from the under belly. I could see holes drilled in the liner right up the center so I thought, "OK, the overfill tube must be up there and this is what other posters have said". I kept it going a bit until the dripping began to accelerate and then stopped. Seemed crazy to me but what could I do without being able to see the tanks? I was then scheduled to take the RV back in for warranty work. When I began to move out from my parking and the trailer hit the down hill portion of my driveway, a sudden flood poured out from the trailer. An amazing amount of water!! I added this to the items for them to look at and this is what was reported.

The transfer hose was attached, "as an after thought". Not properly clamped or sealed and considering the amount of posts I've seen here, it's clear the HL has an assembly problem. Secondly, the gage is not something you can rely on due to the small transfer line from tank to tank. They had to replace the plywood under the chassis due to rot and I now have a huge cut in my liner like a C-section on my "brand new" trailer. I know from personal experience that the black tape they used to seal it will let go soon and I'll be dealing with essentially an air scoop on the under belly. The whole cover should have been removed, not cut in half. They had the dang thing for 2 months almost, so there was time.

I have identified the overflow tubes for both tanks but I've yet to try and see if it all works like it should. The size of the overflow tubes are under sized like the drain line so I'll see how that goes. Over all, I feel it's a poor design and a poor assembly. If I'm the "one off", then good for all of you. A friends TH has a hugh gate like a grey tank gate to drain his fresh. The dinky little drain line with a petcock takes FOREVER to drain your tanks and apparently you can strain your tanks before the tiny overflow lines show that you have filled both. The tanks need a larger or two transfer lines to handle the water flow. As is, you will show a "full" reading prior to being half full. i.e. both tanks. Not just one.

My long winded .02 cents.

At what rate do you fill your tank? I've always assumed a water hose runs about 7 GPM. I have heard post on where someone damaged theirs due to over-expansion and I worry about this every time I fill it. I probably only fill around 2-3 GPM. Do you fill until it runs out the vent or do you stop when the gauge says FULL.
 

readytohitheroad

Well-known member
Given the apparent frequency of this issue why has Heartland not changed their design? It would not cost very much it would seem. It appears other manufacturers have much better setups. Kinda curious given Heartland's mantra about customer service? Not brow beating here just curious...
 

whp4262

Well-known member
On my Class A it was recommended not to fill the fresh water tank all the way when traveling cause it could damage the tank if you didn't leave some expansion or slosh room. Of course it was easy because I could open one of the access doors and look at the tank while I was filling it. Not so easy on the 5vr because the tank is hidden and I've decided the monitor panel is more flash than funtional. When I filled the tank on the Class A I would just stick the hose in the fill port and turn the water on. I never noticed the tank expanding as I was filling it or building any back pressure from the hose even though it also had a fairly small vent system.
 
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