Impact Drivers

[2psnapod2]

Looking at purchasing a impact driver for working with my tires. One is 450 Ft LPS and the other is 2,200 In LPS. Which one is better?

 

[JohnDar]

2200 in-lbs is equal to 183 ft-lbs. The 450 ft-lb device would probably rotate the truck. If the amount of torque can be adjusted on the units, my guess is that you'll get finer adjustment on the lower torque unit and be less likely to rip the studs off the wheel. From a previous discussion, lug nut torques ranged somewhere between 110 - 130 ft-lbs.

 

[NWILSON]

Generally speaking it's a bad idea to use an impact wrench to install lug nuts on a cast wheel. No harm in removing or running them into place but anything beyond contact is best done with a torque wrench!

 

[2psnapod2]

The removal of and reattaching them was my intent. I always use a torque wrench to torque them. Thanks John, the 2,200 FT LB one is about half the wait, 4/5th the cost and is also more compact. I think you have talked me into it.

 

[pegmikef]

Whenever I get tires/wheels changed/installed I always try to have them manually torqued on because I don't trust the impact wrenchs or how they are set.

 

[TedS]

I'd get the 450 lb ft one. The lighter one may not loosen a tight, or lightly corroded lug nut. The output can always be reduced. It can not be increased. My 1/2 inch pneumatic impact wrench is rated to 450 and has a few settings for lower output. I always finish torqueing the nuts with a hand torque wrench.

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

Michael, are both of these you're referring to cordless battery operated wrenches? I've never seen a cordless rated for 450 lb/ft. What kind are they?

 

[Speedy]

Michael, if they are pneumatic I'd go for the 450 ft/lb unit because you can adjust the amount of torque on the tool as well as with air pressure from the compressor. 183 ft/lb is not really that much and I think you would be disappointed with it's performance. I had a Craftsman 1/2" drive pneumatic impact wrench rated at 250 ft/lb that would not crack loose lug nuts on the truck. Always needed to use a breaker bar and 4' piece of pipe to crack them loose after being on all winter.

 

[wyleyrabbit]

Hi everyone,

I have one of these: Ridgid X4 18V Lithium-ion Impact Driver

According to the specs on the website, it has a torque of 1,750 in. lbs, which I think works out to 1750/12 = 145 ft. lbs of torque.

Not sure if that would be way too much for the lugs on my Bighorn or not. If memory serves, I think 120 ft. lbs is the correct amount of torque for my lugs. Thoughts?

I have a torque wrench and regularly check the lugs, but I find it tedious and sometimes get a sore back from checking it.

Chris

 

[2psnapod2]

Here is a quick link. On the road now.

http://www.toolbarn.com/milwaukee-2652-20.html


http://www.toolbarn.com/milwaukee-2662-20.html


Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

 

[Urban350]

I would get the 450lbs one but the pin type lock would drive me nuts.

 

[JohnDar]

If that's where you're going to buy one from, you'll have to also purchase a battery and charger for it. They're selling them as "bare" tools. I just use either my large 1/2" ratchet or the 4-way lug wrench to loosen lug nuts. Maybe then switch to my 18V Bosch Impact Driver to spin them on/off. But still use the torque wrench to final tighten. Never met a lug nut I couldn't get off by hand, although I've snapped a couple of studs off in the process on some older vehicles.

 

[jnbhobe]

I've changed a lot of tires and if it were me I would get the big one. You don't have to let it hammar till it stops. Torque them by hand.

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

I thiink it's a no brainer. FOr an extra $50 you get a much stronger tool and it's only a half pound extra weight. It seems like a good deal if you've already got the 18V Lituium battery.

 

[2psnapod2]

Thanks guys for the great info. I do already have the M18 Battery and charger with my drill driver that I have. They even sent me an extra battery. So I should be good to go. I think then I will go ahead and get the bigger one.

PS, they do also sell it with a friction Ring. And they also have it with batteries. I will probably by it from CPO. Which is where I purchased my Drill Driver.

 

[2psnapod2]

Ok, one more question, would you purchase the detent pin model or one with a friction ring?

 

[jnbhobe]

Ok, one more question, would you purchase the detent pin model or one with a friction ring?

The sockets go on and off easier with the ring style, with the pin style you will have to release the socket and thats a real pain sometimes.

 

[Urban350]

Friction ring, pin is a pain!

 

[porthole]

I have one of these: Ridgid X4 18V Lithium-ion Impact Driver

That tool is a 1/4 hex driver, that is not an impact wrench for lug nuts.

 

[porthole]

Michael, are both of these you're referring to cordless battery operated wrenches? I've never seen a cordless rated for 450 lb/ft. What kind are they?

Ray 450's are becoming more common, at least in rating. You get what you pay for though. I have matched my Snap-On cordless (450) against others and there is no comparison.

The removal of and reattaching them was my intent. I always use a torque wrench to torque them. Thanks John, the 2,200 FT LB one is about half the wait, 4/5th the cost and is also more compact. I think you have talked me into it.

Your signature has your truck as a Ford DRW. The lugs are torqued to 165 ft lbs. You will need all of the 450 to get the lug nuts off.

Ok, one more question, would you purchase the detent pin model or one with a friction ring?

Previous career experience has found pins a pain in the butt. Friction rings can be a bit tight when new, but will loosen up with use. Pins will always be a hassle.