Installing a water transfer pump

GK2018

Well-known member
So I'm in the process of trying to figure out a way to fill up the fresh water tank on our Big horn without needing to be hooked up to a city water connection to do so and instead be able to fill up the fresh water tank by pumping water into it from a water bladder. Our Mallard was easy because it had a big ol hole with a cap and you just stick a water hose in the hole and let it fill until full.

I tried putting a water transfer pump inline with our filters and used a backflow preventer so when hooked to city water it doesn't run back through the water transfer pump but there isn't enough pressure from the water transfer pump to push the water through to the freshwater tank even by going around the filters. I'll attach a picture even though this idea didn't work so maybe it's better understood than my terrible explanation haha.

Basically I'm trying to figure out what the best way is to permanently tie this water transfer pump into the fresh water tank so I can fill up the freshwater tank via an external water bladder and was hoping yall had some ideas.
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danemayer

Well-known member
Another way to approach it would be to put a tee into the Pex line between the fresh tank and the 4-way Anderson Valve. Run Pex to an outside access point; perhaps near the top of the Universal Docking Center (UDC). Install a cutoff valve so water can only move through when you manually open the valve. With no resistance from a check valve, you might even get away with a gravity feed if the bladder was higher than the UDC.

Or you could get a more powerful pump.
 

GK2018

Well-known member
Another way to approach it would be to put a tee into the Pex line between the fresh tank and the 4-way Anderson Valve. Run Pex to an outside access point; perhaps near the top of the Universal Docking Center (UDC). Install a cutoff valve so water can only move through when you manually open the valve. With no resistance from a check valve, you might even get away with a gravity feed if the bladder was higher than the UDC.

Or you could get a more powerful pump.
I thought about the more powerful pump and was hoping to stay away from that route because it would have to go from 12V to 120V not that we boondock much I guess though, so wouldn't be too big of deal other than having to go get one.

I didn't think about splicing into the PEX, that might be a fairly viable option...

Do you know by chance if there would be another way besides cutting into that PEX and adding a Tee? I'm definitely not trying to reinvent the wheel haha.

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I have added a 12volt water pump on the wall of the UDC and when I have to fill my fresh water tank when no city water connection available, I run a hose from the discharge side of the pump to the city water connection in the UDC, on the suction side of the pump I run a hose to a 6 gallon water jug and pump it into the fresh water tank. I have installed a 12volt supply line with a switch in the UDC for the pump. This is a permanent installation. You just install the hoses when you need to use them, the pump is always there and ready to use, just flip the switch. Works great. I have to use this in Michigan State Parks because no water or sewer supply on the sites, so I always have 2 - 6 gallon plastic water jugs onboard, plus a 22 gallon Blue Boy Dump Tote. Hockster
 

GK2018

Well-known member
I have added a 12volt water pump on the wall of the UDC and when I have to fill my fresh water tank when no city water connection available, I run a hose from the discharge side of the pump to the city water connection in the UDC, on the suction side of the pump I run a hose to a 6 gallon water jug and pump it into the fresh water tank. I have installed a 12volt supply line with a switch in the UDC for the pump. This is a permanent installation. You just install the hoses when you need to use them, the pump is always there and ready to use, just flip the switch. Works great. I have to use this in Michigan State Parks because no water or sewer supply on the sites, so I always have 2 - 6 gallon plastic water jugs onboard, plus a 22 gallon Blue Boy Dump Tote. Hockster
When you use the 12v pump like that do you switch the anderson valve to the fresh water tank fill position? I would assume yes but I'm just double checking. Also what size 12v pump are you using? Mine is a 290 gallon per hour pump with I think a 40 foot lift if I remember correctly.

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esscobra

Well-known member
I have the Milwaukee 18v transfer pump and it will easily pump water from 5 gal bucket (sanitizer mix) to the tank or push antifreeze from bucket thru the fixtures
Milwaukee 2771-20 M18 Transfer Pump I carry it with me and its portable so I can use other places as well
 
When you use the 12v pump like that do you switch the anderson valve to the fresh water tank fill position? I would assume yes but I'm just double checking. Also what size 12v pump are you using? Mine is a 290 gallon per hour pump with I think a 40 foot lift if I remember correctly. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
I do not have to switch anything. I just use the normal city water fill setting. The pump I use is the same type you have as your house pump in your coach, nothing different. I set this up in my last coach and transferred it to this coach, been using this setup for years now, & it works perfect. Just purchase a second 12 volt pump from SureFlo or whomever and set it up. Install pump on inside wall of UDC (basement side) ( use stainless screws so no rust) run a 12 volt fused feed line with a switch in UDC for the pump. Make up a discharge hose with a male hose end from the pump to connect to city water fill fitting. Then make a suction hose from the pump to your 5 gallon water jug or whatever you want to use. Turn on the pump which sucks water from jug into your coach. The biggest expense is the purchase of the new pump. You do not need an expensive high flow rate pump for this, I can pump out a 6 gallon jug in about 3 minutes. The pump I use is a SureFlo model # 2088-422-444"]2088-422-444[/URL] 13.7 vdc max 2.8 gpm I hope this helps explain my setup. Hockster

- - - Updated - - -

As you will notice in this post, some numbers, letters and symbols were added for some reason. I triple checked my post before submiting it, and none of those things were there before I sent it. In the post from, GK2018 that I responded to, you will see similar things. Something wrong here. Hockster
 

BigFry

Member
I have found out the hard way that you should always have a spare Shurflo pump. I purchased a spare and use it to fill my Bighorn from a water bladder in the bed of the truck. At 60 gallons I can not move it when filled. I connected the power wires to a spare 7 way Bargman plug for electricity and appropriate plumbing connectors from the bladder to the pump and from the pump to the RV.

I like what Hockster has done but have not gone to the extra effort to make a permanent setup.
 

SNOKING

Well-known member
I too carry a spare 12volt house pump, not including the one for the water transfer system. Hockster

I put in a T and a two way valve to allow the exist pump to pump water from a bucket into the tank. With the Anderson valve set to winterize, and the valve switch to send water to the tank verses the system, I can pump water into the tank. It is been a while since I did it. I have to look and see if I can find pictures.


First picture shows T in line from tank(mid lower center). Second picture shows the valve in the line from the Anderson Valve to the system.

Also I installed a marine style 6" screw in access port in the dungeon wall so I can reach in to switch the valve. I will have to check tomorrow that the pictures of valve and T are in the final positions as I had to reverse them.
 

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GK2018

Well-known member
Awesome, I definitely appreciate all the replies!

Hockster: I like the permanent solution you setup on yours, that might be the route I wind up going. I have a few surflo pumps laying around that need a couple cheap fixes to be back to new I just haven't gotten around to fixing them yet (5 years later haha).

Bigfry: that's the same thing I'm doing with the water bladder. I purchased one from Amazon because I can't count the number of times I've called a campground and asked if they have full hookup, they say yes so I pull in unhook and start setting up only to realize full hookup to them meant having electric, the water spigot being community water and the sewer being a dump station as you pull out .

Snoking: That's a good looking setup, I like that idea but I'm always so leery to cut into my PEX for fear I can't get it back together without having leaks. I never seem to have the best of luck with PEX. I prefer the old school PVC pipe with some primer and glue. I probably need to practice more with PEX since that's the future of plumbing.

With summer coming on I have about a hundred projects on this RV I'm working on. I just purchased a CheapHeat system, trying to figure out some AC solutions for the second bedroom since it way to hot, water softener install and bypass, building a waterproof box for the washer in case it leaks, run a few extra electrical outlets and so much more. Hopefully I get it finished before next year haha!!

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carl.swoyer

Well-known member
I have a fifty gallon bladder and a pressure sensing water pump.
I attach my pump to the bladder and attach the output hose to the Anderson value . The pump has a pigtail to plug into the seven way plug on my truck.
Works great !

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BigFry

Member
I put in a T and a two way valve to allow the exist pump to pump water from a bucket into the tank. With the Anderson valve set to winterize, and the valve switch to send water to the tank verses the system, I can pump water into the tank. It is been a while since I did it. I have to look and see if I can find pictures.


First picture shows T in line from tank(mid lower center). Second picture shows the valve in the line from the Anderson Valve to the system.

Also I installed a marine style 6" screw in access port in the dungeon wall so I can reach in to switch the valve. I will have to check tomorrow that the pictures of valve and T are in the final positions as I had to reverse them.

Good job, I will have to think about doing that mod.
 

Kc9ojn

Member
So I'm in the process of trying to figure out a way to fill up the fresh water tank on our Big horn without needing to be hooked up to a city water connection to do so and instead be able to fill up the fresh water tank by pumping water into it from a water bladder. Our Mallard was easy because it had a big ol hole with a cap and you just stick a water hose in the hole and let it fill until full.

I tried putting a water transfer pump inline with our filters and used a backflow preventer so when hooked to city water it doesn't run back through the water transfer pump but there isn't enough pressure from the water transfer pump to push the water through to the freshwater tank even by going around the filters. I'll attach a picture even though this idea didn't work so maybe it's better understood than my terrible explanation haha.

Basically I'm trying to figure out what the best way is to permanently tie this water transfer pump into the fresh water tank so I can fill up the freshwater tank via an external water bladder and was hoping yall had some ideas.
44e1be42a10e4c3c915ba339680c5ef7.jpg
f6db8f82d9d911e62c22dfca1723ed8d.jpg
f588d1583e51068a5a3caec20a9051bb.jpg


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