That's cool Jerrod. Found a link to the HD coil set. Can you confirm the AWG of the wire used inside the coil?
jbeletti's Sundance 262 RB
- Thread starter jbeletti
- Start date
Looks like you can get in 4 or 6 AWG: http://phillipsind.com/main/electri...bles/vertical-dual-pole-permacoiltm-4-ga.html
Looks like this route would cost me about twice as much than using heavy AWG wires and APP connectors. But... This coiled cord could be safer and looks better. Either route I go, I will add a matching plug onto the Viair compressor. Unsure about using the 2-pin round connector for a set of vehicle jumper cables though. Maybe I could put both under the bumper (round 2-pole and APP).
Cart screenshot only - not ordered - just for reference.
Cart screenshot only - not ordered - just for reference.
porthole
Retired
I use industrial battery connectors - on everything.
When I did the boat salvage work anything we had that required 12 volts DC had the 175 Anderson connector. Didn't matter if we squeezed 2/0 welding cable or just 10awg for pumps. Same connector on everything made everything universal.
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Link to that?
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These are 4 AWG?
When I did the boat salvage work anything we had that required 12 volts DC had the 175 Anderson connector. Didn't matter if we squeezed 2/0 welding cable or just 10awg for pumps. Same connector on everything made everything universal.
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Link to that?
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Thanks Jim, I will check it out.
I have all of the parts at home to tackle this project just haven't gotten around to it.
My plan is to use this HD truck coiled cable.
Here's a few pictures I have in my phone. The rest is at home
These are 4 AWG?
Thanks for the feedback Duane. Unsure what Jerrod got, but the coiled cord also offered in 4 and 6 AWG.
Link to Matt's site: https://www.adventurousway.com/rv-electrical-upgrade-part-3-dc-charger-truck-12v-socket
Link to Matt's YT channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCi071pdbHdDYbPIX8KMLHCg/featured
porthole
Retired
Something else to consider when using solenoids, the current draw and or heat.
Here is something I use on some of my projects, mainly to have remote battery disconnects.
Also use one on the golf cart as a rudimentary theft deterrent.
This solenoid is a manual or remote operated and it is also a latching relay. It only uses current to actually make the switch. Once switched to on or off there is no current draw.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7622
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And on the Anderson connectors. We use the SB175. With our boat work we tend to abuse things and we haven't had one fail yet. The size below if a bit small and the next size up is just too big.
If you ever noticed the gray plug under the bumper of my truck, that is a Anderson 175 connected to the starter and engine block with 2/0 welding cables.
Cables as in plural - don't expect to get the desired results relying on the truck's chassis grounds. Run the ground all the way up front. My ground is with the trucks battery ground on the engine block. For the positive I chose the starter B+ lug as it has both battereis available then. Not necessary with you new truck if you only have one battery.
Here is something I use on some of my projects, mainly to have remote battery disconnects.
Also use one on the golf cart as a rudimentary theft deterrent.
This solenoid is a manual or remote operated and it is also a latching relay. It only uses current to actually make the switch. Once switched to on or off there is no current draw.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7622
- - - Updated - - -
And on the Anderson connectors. We use the SB175. With our boat work we tend to abuse things and we haven't had one fail yet. The size below if a bit small and the next size up is just too big.
If you ever noticed the gray plug under the bumper of my truck, that is a Anderson 175 connected to the starter and engine block with 2/0 welding cables.
Cables as in plural - don't expect to get the desired results relying on the truck's chassis grounds. Run the ground all the way up front. My ground is with the trucks battery ground on the engine block. For the positive I chose the starter B+ lug as it has both battereis available then. Not necessary with you new truck if you only have one battery.
Good tips. Thanks Duane.
Duane - I'm thinking for my application, the 7700 Remote Battery Switch will be what I would need.
- Blue Sea Link
- Amazon link
- Blue Sea Link
- Amazon link
porthole
Retired
That model is the exact piece I have in the golf cart with the remote switch hidden. Works great. The cart had 6 T-105's running through a 400 amp controller. Never any problems with it. And what's nice is when I push the button the batteries are completely disconnected.
Good point Mark - I am getting worried about my two 3500# axles and springs as well as my 14" Rainer tires.
porthole
Retired
Putting a Truma in the new rig - you - may have a guy.......
https://rvdailyreport.com/industry/truma-hires-rob-kolean-to-oversee-service/
They have already allocated all their sponsorships for 2019
Checked before this announcement about Rob.
SNOKING
Well-known member
Say what? ST205/75R14C tires???? Our little guy has a 8K GVWR, only 220 lbs more than the 262 RB and came with ST225/75R15D's which I replaced with GY Endurance ST225/75RE's.
What are you thinking about for a tire/wheel(?) upgrade? Goodyear does make the Endurance in a ST205/75R14D rated to 2040 lbs if the OEM wheels are rated to 65 PSI inflation. 15" wheels and tires would be better!
Chris
SNOKING
Well-known member
Hey Chris - ya, the tires do match the GVWR. Be nice to have more, but it is what it is at this point.
Thanks for making me do math too!
View attachment 60827
Did they switch to LRD tires for 2019? I saw LRC listed for 2018 models. https://www.funtownrv.com/product/new-2018-heartland-sundance-ultra-lite-262-rb-831525-29
- Tire Size: 205/75R14 Load Range: C
- Tire Weight Rating: 1760 Lbs. Max. Pressure: 50 PSI
RVIA has a new standard for tires to have 10 percent extra capacity!
RVIA recommends RV trailer manufacturer’s provide a 10% load capacity reserve, above the certified GAWRs for all OE tires. That means, a RV trailer with 3500# GAWR axles must have tires that that can provide 1925# of load capacity when inflated to the trailer manufacturer’s recommended cold inflation pressures found on the vehicle certification label.
Hi Chris - when it comes to what we're doing with travel trailers, I have to confess to knowing very little. That said, I expect to come up to speed on it over the next year as I connect with my new tribe
Armed with 5th Wheel AND Travel Trailer knowledge - then I'll really be dangerous WRT to the RVIA recommendation - I like it. Unsure if we're doing this across the board or not.
POSSIBLE FUTURE MOD - DC to DC Battery Charging (Truck to RV)
As alluded to a few posts back, I am consider as a possible future modification, the addition of a DC to DC converter that can be used with the High Current Charge DC Power Outlet that I DO plan to add to the new truck.
Redarc, an Australian company makes a HD DC-DC Converter that can provide a 40 Amp charge output (depending on input current) - to the RV battery bank. The Redarc BCDC1240D has configurable charge profiles, including one for LiFePO4 batteries like the 4 I'm planning to have in the RV.
A few US retailers sell this. Here's a link to it on eTrailer - $430.
Here's an image of the Redarc BCDC1240D:
(click above image for larger view)
I've attached the manual for this product for anyone interested. Note that a 40 amp output unit is the largest they make. The 40 amp model only comes as a dual-input unit. The second input is designed for Solar. I would not use that input in my configuration. Any solar I may have will be connected to a Victron MPPT charge controller and then to the DC buss.
This device would be mounted somewhere close to the batteries. The space (likely under the bed or outside on the a-frame) will require additional venting to pull out generated heat and ensure the highest output current.
The power feed into this unit would be provided by an umbilical that I would create and terminate on the A-frame hitch into an Anderson SB175 connector housed inside a Trailer Vision housing with hinged door.
Then actual truck power would connect to the RV via another umbilical that I would create, also with Anderson SB175 connectors. One end would plug into the SB175 on the A-frame and the other end would plug into the SB175 under the truck bumper.
As alluded to a few posts back, I am consider as a possible future modification, the addition of a DC to DC converter that can be used with the High Current Charge DC Power Outlet that I DO plan to add to the new truck.
Redarc, an Australian company makes a HD DC-DC Converter that can provide a 40 Amp charge output (depending on input current) - to the RV battery bank. The Redarc BCDC1240D has configurable charge profiles, including one for LiFePO4 batteries like the 4 I'm planning to have in the RV.
A few US retailers sell this. Here's a link to it on eTrailer - $430.
Here's an image of the Redarc BCDC1240D:
(click above image for larger view)
I've attached the manual for this product for anyone interested. Note that a 40 amp output unit is the largest they make. The 40 amp model only comes as a dual-input unit. The second input is designed for Solar. I would not use that input in my configuration. Any solar I may have will be connected to a Victron MPPT charge controller and then to the DC buss.
This device would be mounted somewhere close to the batteries. The space (likely under the bed or outside on the a-frame) will require additional venting to pull out generated heat and ensure the highest output current.
The power feed into this unit would be provided by an umbilical that I would create and terminate on the A-frame hitch into an Anderson SB175 connector housed inside a Trailer Vision housing with hinged door.
Then actual truck power would connect to the RV via another umbilical that I would create, also with Anderson SB175 connectors. One end would plug into the SB175 on the A-frame and the other end would plug into the SB175 under the truck bumper.
Last edited:
jimpav
Well-known member
We are getting close to "sealing the deal" on a 262RB also from a GRR dealer. I know you are busy with the National rally, but it would be nice to have another column added to your mod list with the expected retail price of all those items. I'm just guessing that your retail total is around $5K or so, and wonder if the residual worth at trade in time in the future is worth it for the average consumer. That being said, I'm taking off all non OEM stuff on my present trailer I'm just going with basic ( necessary) mods for now:
Curt 17500 TruTrack Black Trunnion Bar Weight Distribution Hitch with Integrated Sway Control (~$500 amazon).
Replacing the crap Furion DV 3100 with something better (see the Amazon reviews)
SRE 4000+ wet bolts/HD shackles + one X factor brace
Goodyear Endurance or Sailun tires
I wanted disc brakes, but was told by MorRyde the hubs were too small for them. ( How/where did you get them)??
Furrion rear camera
etc, etc
Curt 17500 TruTrack Black Trunnion Bar Weight Distribution Hitch with Integrated Sway Control (~$500 amazon).
Replacing the crap Furion DV 3100 with something better (see the Amazon reviews)
SRE 4000+ wet bolts/HD shackles + one X factor brace
Goodyear Endurance or Sailun tires
I wanted disc brakes, but was told by MorRyde the hubs were too small for them. ( How/where did you get them)??
Furrion rear camera
etc, etc
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