Kitchen glide is unlevel

[cotton farmer]

DW is getting very upset because kitchen stove is not level. At times worse than others. I checked and whole glide is off. Have been told it was adjusted to the best of their ability. Well I need some more ability.
The top of glide does not fit snug, has about 1'' or more gap. Will give when I push it.
Can anyone tell me how to adjust the glides?

 

[jpmorgan37]

I'm curious. What are you leveling when you level your RV? I have found that if I level the RV side to side when I park it and then level the kitchen counter with the stove for my front to back level, the entire fifth wheel is level and my eggs stay in the center of the frying pan. It works every time for us.

John

 

[Oldlthrneck]

The other issue you have, the gap at the top of the slide, is not right. They should all fit snug against the seal. You are right. You need someone with better ability. I would call Heartland customer service and tell them of the problem and ask them to refer you to another dealer or pay for the adjustment to be made at a dealer out of their system. I will make minor adjustments, but for things that are under warrenty, it galls me to have to fix it myself, because the dealers in their network don't have the expertise and/or ability to do it.

 

[jmgratz]

Check out this link to Lippert. It has numerous items listed including the slide adjustment procedures. http://www.lci1.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=61&Itemid=68

 

[wdk450]

Kitchen Stove & Levelling

Gang:
We were experiencing the same unlevel condition on the stove cooktop last trip out. I used washers under the grate legs for a short term fix, but would like to "get it right". To my way of thinking, there must be levelling adjusters in the mounting base of the cooktop/oven just as there are at the floor of a home range/oven. Has anyone persued this as a warranty issue?

We level in our 3670RL using the main island kitchen counter as a reference point. Is anyone using a different point? What is suggested by Heartland?
I would like to see a treatise on 5th wheel RV levelling. References from Lippert say NOT TO USE LANDING GEAR OR REAR STABILIZERS FOR LEVELLING. I assume you are then supposed to side-to-side level by shimming up the wheels and NOT place levelling shims under the landing gear and rear stabilizers, hoping their systems will take up the off level slack.

 

[Bob&Patty]

JP, I would have never thought of that. 2 eggs have to be cheaper that buying a level. From now on I will have Patty crack 2 eggs in a pan. I can level the Horn to the eggs, turn on the stove and have egg sandwiches for lunch. Man you old guys are smart. Patty made me do it.

 

[TXBobcat]

Cotton Farmer
You should not have the gap at the top. There is what I think it's called is a D seal. It is suppose to be up against the wall. If you can get your fingers between the seal and the wall you need to have it adjusted. If the seal is tight against the wall you could still have a gap between the slide and the wall.

To level your RV you first level the side to side with plastic blocks or wood planks. Once you are level side to side use the landing gear to level front to back. When you drop your landing gear be sure to leave a bit of travel to lower the front. I normally drop the landing gear with the motor about 3 or 4 inches then drop the inside legs to the ground. I usually have a plastic landing pad to set the landing gears on. Helps to keep them from dropping down in soft ground.

The rear jacks are only for stabilizing not leveling. If they are electric, extend them to the ground, I also use a landing pad. If the ground is not the same distance they will extend and start to support the back when they both are on the ground. You will see the rear raise slightly. Manual jacks will have to be done separately. Be careful you can jack one side up more than the other and cause a twist to the frame. When I had a different trailer I use a 18v ½” cordless drill with a socket to raise and lower the manual landing gears.
BC

 

[cotton farmer]

Thanks for your replies. I have every thing level in the trailer, except the stove and counter on the kitchen glide. I'm checking out the Lippert site. DW wife insisted that we make an appointment with the dealer, so as soon as we do not have to stay in it they said they would adjust the glide. Something about not using the stove again until it is fixed did get me in gear.
I always level with the wheels for side to side and front jacks for the front to back. I put blocks under the jacks front and rear so they are not extended too far. Has worked for many years for me.

 

[wdk450]

Which Lippert Document?

Jim Gratz:
I checked through the documents on the Lippert site you gave a link to and did not see which one had to do with adjusting hydraulic slides.

 

[Bobby A]

I just drove 200 miles one way to have my slide outs adjusted, took it to a dealership 5 miles from home and they told me the same thing, that they adjusted it the best they could, which was totally unexceptable to me. You may not have to go to the lengths I did but bottom line is if its not exceptable take it somewhere else. BTW, my slides are much better, but they sure did screw up other things, long story.

 

[wdk450]

Stove/Oven leveling adjustment

All:
I just came back from a morning of doing minor repairs on our BH3670RL at the storage facility. On my list was the out of level problem with the stove, since the local dealer's service guy told me "he couldn't do anything about it".
I got out the Amana stove installation manual from my blue documentation pouch, and learned that the stove is simply dropped into a cutout opening in the countertop, and secured with 4 screws going sideways into the countertop. These are accessed by lifting up the grate and stovetop plate under the grate. (BTW there is no mention of levelling the stove in the Amana manual).
My kitchen slide was level, so all I had to do was 1) Remove the 4 stove mounting screws 2) Insert a wedge under the front center of the stove(between the stove and the drawer below it) 3)Lift the stove until it measured level front-to-back 4) Reinstall the 4 screws 5) Check the stovetop for level side-to-side 6) If it is not already level side-to-side remove the screws from the low side and lift that side with a wedge until it is level side-to-side (as you had done before on the center front of the stove) Reinstall the 2 side screws.

 

[jmgratz]

Jim Gratz:
I checked through the documents on the Lippert site you gave a link to and did not see which one had to do with adjusting hydraulic slides.

I know I have seen it there because I have printed it out but I cannot find it anymore. Sorry. I will try some more searching and if I find it I will repost.

 

[JohnDar]

Gang:
We were experiencing the same unlevel condition on the stove cooktop last trip out. I used washers under the grate legs for a short term fix, but would like to "get it right". To my way of thinking, there must be levelling adjusters in the mounting base of the cooktop/oven just as there are at the floor of a home range/oven. Has anyone persued this as a warranty issue?

We level in our 3670RL using the main island kitchen counter as a reference point. Is anyone using a different point? What is suggested by Heartland?
I would like to see a treatise on 5th wheel RV levelling. References from Lippert say NOT TO USE LANDING GEAR OR REAR STABILIZERS FOR LEVELLING. I assume you are then supposed to side-to-side level by shimming up the wheels and NOT place levelling shims under the landing gear and rear stabilizers, hoping their systems will take up the off level slack.

I do the same with the JT LVL-1 system. Rather than pulling out drawers and mounting the sender on the floor where it would be a PITA to get at, I just tape it down on the counter by the sink. Works fine. And since we're parking it on a summer seasonal site, I can remove it and pull the batteries until the next time I need it. Not sure what Lippert says, but the front jacks ARE used for leveling front to back. Boards, shims, or whatever are used for side to side. The rear stabilizers are for stability, once the unit has been leveled front to back with the front jacks. The first time I took our unit out, I placed thick wood pads under all jacks. Since I've mounted Elephant Pads on all four jacks, and I'm sitting on a soft site, I didn't put anything under the pads and it's stable as can be.

 

[jmgratz]

Jim Gratz:
I checked through the documents on the Lippert site you gave a link to and did not see which one had to do with adjusting hydraulic slides.

Check this link....
http://www.lci1.com/OwnersManuals/Slideout/Electric Bedroom Slideout-Web.pdf

 

[wdk450]

Slide Levelling Adjustments

Jim Gratz:
The document youy linked is for an ELECTRIC BEDROOM SLIDE with an electric drive motor and pinion gears:
"The Lippert Electric Bedroom Slideout System is a belt and pinion gear
system"
My slide, and the one from the original poster (I believe), are HYDRAULIC.
But thanks for the effort.

 

[jmgratz]

My bad....sorry I am a Landmark guy not a Bighorn guy...but I believe the principal is the same.