Landmark Louisville Modifications

[CDN]

Re: Landmark Louisville Modifications LCI Control Panel

Its Spring and Landmark Mod Season..

The LCI levelling control inside the Trailer was always in the wrong spot. This weekend I moved this to Drivers side basement. Used the stock plastic extrusion. Mounted the light switch on the end. Ran the serial bus cable to this location.






Used a small project box and remounted the basic control at the opposite of the storage bay.


- - - Updated - - -

The Fridge door was damaged when the screws on the wheel lock clip sheared off. Heartland supplied the new door and I installed. I also added extra screws for the wheel clamps. I had cut back panel on the fridge to access the water valve for winterizing, just air and no antifreeze. I added a couple screws in side the back to tie it down to help.

I used some limited compression foam around the top and down the right side. Just like road cases for broadcast equuipment.




I have some clearance now. About 3/4 of an inch.




This fridge is rock solid now in the slide and will not walk out.

Brian

 

[jbeletti]

Nice mods Brian!

 

[CDN]

More mouse proofing. We are at our northern fall trip on the Canadian Shield Last year we had mice, found 2 live and 2 in traps. 1/4 inch galvanized mesh. This blocks a lot of the hole for the hydraulic ram. Can bend if needed. We use Mouse Free spray as well which has worked for 3 winters in storage.

 

[CDN]

Been a while on the mods but today I repaired the Kitchen Slide. The rollers were digging into the slide floor and I added 3 pieces of 16 gauge stainless. Similar to the Slide in Slide in the bedroom.

 

[thewanderingeight]

I have the same issue with my kitchen slide where the roller supports the fridge. The wheels are digging into the floor. Any tips for installing the metal sheets?


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[cookie]

I did mine years ago. I used galvanized sheet metal that I cut from some heat duct material. Using a jack and a piece of 2x6 I raised the slide a bit. With a little caulk along the edges I slid the pieces in place. I had pre drilled small holes along the edges and used small stainless screws.
They have been in place for probably 7 or 8 years now.
View attachment 54374


Peace
Dave

 

[thewanderingeight]

I did mine years ago. I used galvanized sheet metal that I cut from some heat duct material. Using a jack and a piece of 2x6 I raised the slide a bit. With a little caulk along the edges I slid the pieces in place. I had pre drilled small holes along the edges and used small stainless screws.
They have been in place for probably 7 or 8 years now.
View attachment 54374


Peace
Dave

The link to the attachment is not working.

But it sounds like you used pretty thin metal, which is great because I was worried about what gauge I should go with.


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[cookie]

The pic shows up on my end but here it is again.


Peace
Dave

 

[thewanderingeight]

Looks good. Thanks for sharing!


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[CDN]

Update, Sitting for a couple weeks I went and tried the slide. Slick operation smooth and no jerking at alll.

Worth the $100 CAD for stainless.

 

[ctrim]

Working when it is below 32F and around 35F most evenings you run the Furnace. The heat available in the Bedroom and Bath where pathetic to say the least. Making plans to add an extra furnace duct to the bedroom. Had scoped out the add one just above the wet bay would put it beside the bed.

Tonight with nothing to loose I took off the 4 inch supply to to the inflow duct that feeds the bath and bedroom.

I found this.... Yes the slug from the hole saw is blocking the hole. Not to mention this is a 2 inch hole with a 4 inch duct feeding it.

View attachment 61125View attachment 61126


This is what I did tonight.. I cut out for a full 4 inch hole.. metal duct tape the duct back to the ceiling material..remounted the flange with 4 drill screws and sucked the duct back down flat that was deformed. All joints sealed up.

View attachment 61127

I was running the furnace and this has made a significant difference in airflow. If you are having issues with poor circulation check this flange on the ceiling in the basement.


It is possible the manufacture wants to limit flow to this area but why run a 4 inch duct and flange? This is just a production line issue and poor QC.

Dear CDN, we have a similar issue, can you describe how to get to "the basement" and where the duct work is? We have a Heartland Oakmont.

 

[david-steph2018]

Dear CDN, we have a similar issue, can you describe how to get to "the basement" and where the duct work is? We have a Heartland Oakmont.

The basement is the pass thru storage area. The duct work runs off the furnace to the vents. These are behind the rear basement walls. The walls need to be removed using a #2 square drive bit. Once you get the walls down you will see the furnace and duct work, water lines, water heater, etc....

 

[ctrim]

The basement is the pass thru storage area. The duct work runs off the furnace to the vents. These are behind the rear basement walls. The walls need to be removed using a #2 square drive bit. Once you get the walls down you will see the furnace and duct work, water lines, water heater, etc....

Oh GREAT! I had no idea that was called a basement. LOL

 

[CDN]

That is it for Project Landmark. Overall happy with the couch. COVID changed a lot of plans and being close to home is important.

We have traded to a Venture Sporttrek Touring Edition STT 32VRB Travel Trailer. Certainly not a landmark but will allow us to camp more and no stairs inside and only 3 outside for me to navigate with ongoing disability issues. The ceiling is higher than many Travel Trailers, fit and finish in this price point is above standard. BAL NXG bolted frame and NXG slide system, Good Year standard tires, Azdel construction etc.

Final Louisville Mod. Sealing one more spot

Check behind the plastic covers inside your awing tracks. The front arm on mine was not sealed enough and allowed water in and delamination this past winter.