Leveling, Stability and Hitches

[dadtoandrew]

Just another few curious (possibly loaded) questions.

Where is the best location to set a level to determine if you are level on your campsite? Before I extend my tips, I put the level in the middle of the floor by the island, that way it is easy to see from the door. Is there a better place for me to set it? I usually level side to side 1st, while still attached to TV so if i need to raise a side considerably, I can till move the TT. I am using a torpedo level because it's compact. Don't think it's necessary to carry a longer level. I have heard (or read somewhere) to level the front of the unit first, then the back. Not sure how that would be done.

Now on to the second part of my questions. Once I use the jacks and get it stable, how stable should it really be? I usually put the jacks down (power), until they are down on both sides, then "snug them up". I think i'm using enough pressure on them, but it still seems more wobbly than I would have thought it should be. I am afraid of breaking the jacks by putting too much pressure on them. Should I be? Also, instead of just using the jack pads that are on the levelers, I use some 2X8 (or 10) pieces of wood to spread out the weight, so it's not so concentrated. Maybe that is my problem with the flex of the wood, or just not enough pressure when starting to stabilize the TT.

I currently have the Husky WD hitch with the friction anti-sway bars, and am currently exploring other options. The back end of the TT seems to wiggle around a little bit (nothing serious causing white knuckles or potential safety issues). I am looking the either the Hensley Arrow, or the Pro-Pride 3P. I have tried to load most of my stuff that we tag along on the front 1/2 of the TT. Tanks are empty when we travel to campsite and then fill them when we get there. With what we bring, we are no where near gross weight.

Thanks for all the replies and this forum is a great way for a newbie to really figure some things out. Prior to this TT we had a 19' Taylor Coach (which we loved), so we've made a huge increase in size, space and luxuries! Already starting to do the research on the next unit (5th wheel) if we decide to change this one.

Thanks!

 

[pegmikef]

I use an eaz lift wd hitch . . virtually no sway, but the wd hitch must be adjusted in accordance with the manufacturer's instruction. Maladjusted hitches on the wide trax NTs tend to cause a little swaying. I use a level in basement for front to back and then put it on the back bumper for side to side. I correct the back to back with the tongue jack, but use 2 x 10s under the wheels as required for side to side. Mine is a little wobby . . . it seems like I have to periodically feather the jacks to tighten them a little more (not lifting, just tightening) to restabilize it.

 

[JohnDar]

Something I read recently indicated that a good place to check level was the floor of the freezer. If it's not close to level, the refer won't work right. But, I set my level (LVL-1 wireless system) on the kitchen counter, next to the sink, which in my rig is almost dead center. The refer seems to follow once the slide is out.

 

[oldmannj]

I just recently decided on a 3P hitch. I have to say all the propaganda on these hitches is absolutely true. My rear kitchen trailrunner was pretty much all over the place especially at highway speeds. Installed the 3P and sure enough straight as a bullet even with big trucks passing. If you're thinking about one of these 2 hitches you should look into the 3P, does everything it says it will do and is hundreds less than Hensley.

 

[wdk450]

Something I read recently indicated that a good place to check level was the floor of the freezer. If it's not close to level, the refer won't work right. But, I set my level (LVL-1 wireless system) on the kitchen counter, next to the sink, which in my rig is almost dead center. The refer seems to follow once the slide is out.

Regarding the new generation RV ammonia adsorption refrigerators (since the mid '90's), the current wisdom is that if your RV is level enough to walk in comfortably, the refrigerator will be O.K. I set up 2 little bubble levels at the front Driver's side corner of my trailer, near the landing gear switch. I put a big level in my trailer on the kitchen floor, and made the stick-on outside levels match that inside level's readings.
Remember that your trailer is sitting on sprung wheels when you are parked, and you are probably going to feel this. A lot of people swear by J.T.'s Strong Arm Stabilizers that provide diagonal framework between the landing gear and frame. They are on sale at the Goshen Rally for $295 instead of the MSRP of $400. Here's a You Tube Video on them: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqPNtpjcCS8