Looking for Tire Changing method recommendations

Dan54

Well-known member
Need to have a plan for changing to the spare in the event of a flat on my 2011 Landmark 5th wheel. What is the recommended method of jacking up the trailer? Using the leveling jacks in manual mode? The only tool I see that came with the trailer is what looks like a spare tire lowering tool & I carry a tire iron in the front compartment.


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porthole

Retired
Re: Tire change

Need to have a plan for changing to the spare in the event of a flat on my 2011 Landmark 5th wheel. What is the recommended method of jacking up the trailer? Using the leveling jacks in manual mode? The only tool I see that came with the trailer is what looks like a spare tire lowering tool & I carry a tire iron in the front compartment.


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You have 6 point Levelup?

Use it in manual mode, leave connected to the truck.
Use the rear jacks.

Electric impact is nice to have for removal and of course a torque wrench for reinstallation.
 

sengli

Well-known member
Re: Tire change

I have the trailer aid, plus I carry a couple of 20 ton bottle jacks. And dont forget the needed HD 4 way wrench for the lugs as they are torqued to 140ft lbs. My fiver does not have the level up feature.
 

CoveredWagon

Well-known member
Re: Tire change

I have the trailer aid, plus I carry a couple of 20 ton bottle jacks. And dont forget the needed HD 4 way wrench for the lugs as they are torqued to 140ft lbs. My fiver does not have the level up feature.

I hope they’re not torqued to 140 ft lbs. Recommend is 120 ft lbs.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Re: Tire change

I recommend a 24" breaker bar along with the correct size deep well socket.
If you don't have the Level Up, jack on the frame, not the axle, so carry enough cribbing to get the tire off the ground.

Peace
Dave
 

porthole

Retired
Re: Tire change

I recommend a 24" breaker bar along with the correct size deep well socket.
If you don't have the Level Up, jack on the frame, not the axle, so carry enough cribbing to get the tire off the ground.

Peace
Dave

You would need a bed full of wood to jack that high - with proper cribbing.
And cribbing has height limitations based on material used.
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
Tire change - Roadside Assistance!

I've read a lot of bad reviews about the 'Trailer Aid', plus I don't think it is heavy duty enough for a Landmark!

They are really intended for a small utility trailer.

Oh, my way of changing a trailer tire...Roadside Assistance! :rolleyes:
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Re: Tire change

You will overload the tire that is on the ground. Not a good choice. If I need to, I can change the tire using the level up, but I have Coach Net. I carry a torque wrench, tarp, movers blanket for my old knees, and an electric impact wrench. I have the inverter that can more than power it up and proper extension cord. Say has anyone ever bench pressed that spare tire back up! That sucker is heavy.
 

Dan54

Well-known member
Re: Tire change

I recommend a 24" breaker bar along with the correct size deep well socket.
If you don't have the Level Up, jack on the frame, not the axle, so carry enough cribbing to get the tire off the ground.

Peace
Dave

I guess I need to get a HD torque wrench. Mine only goes to 80 ft lbs. if I get one rated to 120 do they come with a longer handle? Hopefully my 20" 4 way tire iron gives me enough leverage to get the nuts off.


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mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Re: Tire change

A torque wrench that is good for 120 ft lbs will be long enough to get the torque to remove the lugs. By the way 120 ft lbs should not be the max torque setting of the wrench. Never use the maximum or minimum setting on a torque wrench. These settings are the ones that are most likely to drift out of specifications. Always relive the pressure on the torque wrench setting it past the lowest setting when not in use.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Re: Tire change

A torque wrench that is good for 120 ft lbs will be long enough to get the torque to remove the lugs.
I'm kinda thinkin that if a lug nut has been on for a while it may require more than 120 ft lbs to get it loose.
There is a right tool for every job and since a breaker bar will not break the bank, I prefer to use one. Well if I need it, I also carry a cordless impact.

Peace
Dave
 

CoveredWagon

Well-known member
Re: Tire change

I guess I need to get a HD torque wrench. Mine only goes to 80 ft lbs. if I get one rated to 120 do they come with a longer handle? Hopefully my 20" 4 way tire iron gives me enough leverage to get the nuts off.


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Go to Harbor Freight and buy a 25 inch breaker bar.

- - - Updated - - -

Trailer aid is not a good idea. There are earlier threads on this. Here is one:
https://heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/33873-Putting-a-jack-under-the-axles

Notice the saddle on my picture. Get one that fits your axle diameter. Mine fits snuggly between the u-bolts.

or if the springs are underslung place the bottle jack on the closest leaf to the axle. little 6 ton jack will do just fine. You are only lifting the weight of one wheel + the compression force of the spring needed to lift the wheel.
 

porthole

Retired
Wheel lug nut torque is not a one size fits all.

Torgue variations include:
stud size
wheel composition, aluminum or steel
lug type, cone, flanged (rotating or non rotating).
15”, 16” or 17.5”

Cookie mentioned getting a deep socket.

Something to keep in mind when searching for your socket. Some deep well sockets have a shallow recess, only allowing 3/4” To 1” depth. Since most of our trailers use the 2” or 2.5” lug nut, you want a socket that covers the whole lugnut.

Some wheels do not have the clearance for impact sockets. My first set of aluminum wheels required standard chrome sockets to clear the wheel.
 

Az_Ernie

Well-known member
The Owner's Manual (published March 2011, Revised February 2013, Pg. 30) that came with our Bighorn states that wheels should be torqued to 120 ft. lbs. We have 16 inch aluminum wheels.
 
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