Lug Nut Covers

I have a Stryker 3110 and need to check the lugs. First time camper here and I cant get the little caps off. Suggestions as to what I need? Do I need a torque wrench?
 

ksucats

Well-known member
First - you will need a torque-wrench. As for which one - I personally have the Sears mechanical one that I got last Christmas season replacing another one that was going on 10 years old. Wanted to get the old one recalibrated but that cost more than a new one. Make sure you get the one that takes the 1/2 inch sockets as you will be tightening from 80 to 140 Ft lbs depending on the rig you have.

As for the lug nuts, I have not seen any that have removable caps. The caps are press fitted to the lug nut itself.

Best and good camping.
 

ksucats

Well-known member
Sorry, I don't. As I recall there are two different sizes in use - the smaller size is used by the wheels where tire pressure is 80 PSI and the larger size for those running 120 PSI. Hopefully one of the members will chime in soon.

By the way - welcome to the Heartland Group and Forum.

Again, happy camping.
 

ksucats

Well-known member
Was just looking at another forum and found the following. Although it came from another brands manual it is a good process / procedure to follow for your torquing the lug nuts. Also, per this same site I see that the 1/2in stud takes a 7/8 in socket. The larger 9/16th stud take a 9/16th socket as I recall. Be sure to get the heavy duty ones because you are going to torque them fairly high.

Wheel Reinstallation After removing a wheel from your RV for any reason, you must carefully follow a 2 step process: 1. Wheel Reinstallation 2. Follow-up Step 1) Wheel Reinstallation During wheel reinstallation, the lug nut torque must be applied in 3 stages. This will ensure the wheel studs are centered in the wheel holes, and will help the lug nuts maintain proper torque. Start all lug nuts by hand. Stage 1: Set your torque wrench to 20-30 ft/lbs (50-60 ft/lbs for 9/16” stud). Begin with the appropriate bolt for your wheel (12 o’clock position for 8 and 6 hole wheels and 2 o’clock position for 5 hole wheels, as illustrated) and apply torque to all lug nuts following the star pattern indicated. Stage 2: Increase your torque wrench setting to 55-60 ft/lbs (90-100 ft/lbs for 9/16” stud). Begin with the appropriate bolt for your wheel and apply torque to all lug nuts following the star pattern indicated. Following stage 2, the wheel can support the weight of the trailer and can be lowered off of the jack stand. Stage 3: Increase your torque wrench setting to 110-120 ft/lbs (140-150 ft/lbs for 9/16” stud). Begin with the appropriate bolt for your wheel (as illustrated) and apply torque to all lug nuts following the star pattern indicated. Step 2) Follow-Up: Retorque after 10, 25, and 50 miles: 1. After the first 10 miles of your trip, pull your recreation vehicle off the road into a safe work area. 2. Set your torque wrench to 110-120 ft/lbs (140-150 ft/lbs for 9/16” stud). 3. Begin with the appropriate bolt for your wheel and apply torque to all lug nuts following the star pattern indicated. 4. Reapply torque (at 110-120 ft/lbs or 140-150 ft/lbs for 9/16” stud) and repeat steps 1, 2, & 3 again at 25 miles and at 50 miles of your first trip. The follow up process is complete and you should refer to the general lug nut torque maintenance process described in “Pre-Trip Maintenance”.



Hope this helps.
 

MTPockets

Well-known member
My factory lugs had the chromed covers. After I noticed a couple had small cracks, I went to NAPA and they matched my lug seat and size with a set of solid chrome nuts. That was four years ago.. better nuts than originals for sure.
 
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