Before ordering our 3055, the dealer said that we would have no clearance problems with either the f-250 or f-350 using any of the new Reese Signature hitches. I would like to believe him, but without actually backing one of these trucks under the king pin, whose to say? I do not want to buy an f-350 and have to flip the axles or make some other major adjustment. Any help for this first time 5er will be greatly appreciated. Lots of great info on this forum.Thanks Birk.
Matching truck to trailer
- Thread starter DJBirk
- Start date
Cooper
Well-known member
I have an F250 4X4 crew cab short bed. I pull a 2006 Gloden Gate 36ft.
I also have a reese 16K pivot slider.
I have not used the slider part sense I bought the trailer. I dont think I can hit the cab at any angle. I have pulled my trailer approx. 16,000 miles. The trail-air hitch pin setup works great help remove a lot movement.
I also have a reese 16K pivot slider.
I have not used the slider part sense I bought the trailer. I dont think I can hit the cab at any angle. I have pulled my trailer approx. 16,000 miles. The trail-air hitch pin setup works great help remove a lot movement.
Thanks Cooper, but my issue isn't turning angles,it's how the truck and trailer hook up; clearance between the top of the bed and the coach itself, using what specific hitch. When the 3055 is parked and level, what is the measurement between the coach and the ground and the king pin and the ground? I should have gotten this info at the show and the dealer doesn't have any Bighorns on the lot at this time.Birk.
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Tom of Ypsi
Well-known member
Birk, I do not have a Big Horn I have a Landmark but I do believe the height is the same. I have a 4x4, F-350, dually (see sig) and I have right around 7 inches of clearance. The Big Horn does not have the standard Trail Air hitch like the Landmark but I do not believe it will make a difference. Hope this helps. If truck shopping I would spend the extra few dollars and get the F-350 instead of the 250.
Cooper
Well-known member
I would say that's close.Scott said:
I have had no real problems a couple molding, sealed the bottom of the shower door area and adjust the icebox door latch.
It pulls great behind my 2006 F250 Diesel 4X4 crewcab it gets from 10 to 13 mpg with no chip. Average mph 65 I carry about 80 gallons of fuel. My hitch is a 16k Reese 4 way Pivot Slider ( I have never had to use the slider). The trailer pulls great could not ask for it to be any better.
I would like to see a few changes in the docking station put the electrical above the water inlets, a deeper sewer hose compartment and a stronger rear stabilizer with more bracing.
Thanks
Thanks for the feedback. I love it when I hear stories like yours about the gas mileage that you get with the Landmark's aerodynamic cap - even with it's weight.
I know this isn't technically the place on this forum for this, but:
The electrical above the wate input has a been a common request, as people are concerned about water shorting out their system. The issue there is the water fill is a gravity fill and it needs to be up higher to still go into the tank ok - which limits us as to where we can arrange things in the docking center. But I will bring it up again with our engineers and challenge them to do it.
The sewer hose area has been a point of contention, as many people have ended up modifying their sewer hose "garage" to fit the newer, larger fittings that come on many of today's new hose designs.
We are working on something there as well.
When you say, "stronger rear stabilzer" - are you talking about the QuickDraw electric rear stabilizer jacks? Because I've never heard any complaints about those before. We did look at the big, hydraulic stabilizers that hang down just behind the axles, but they were cumbersome, hung very, very low (bad ground clearance) - and were expensive. We build one proto with them, test marketed it, and stuck with what we had.
FYI
ST
Thanks for the feedback. I love it when I hear stories like yours about the gas mileage that you get with the Landmark's aerodynamic cap - even with it's weight.
I know this isn't technically the place on this forum for this, but:
The electrical above the wate input has a been a common request, as people are concerned about water shorting out their system. The issue there is the water fill is a gravity fill and it needs to be up higher to still go into the tank ok - which limits us as to where we can arrange things in the docking center. But I will bring it up again with our engineers and challenge them to do it.
The sewer hose area has been a point of contention, as many people have ended up modifying their sewer hose "garage" to fit the newer, larger fittings that come on many of today's new hose designs.
We are working on something there as well.
When you say, "stronger rear stabilzer" - are you talking about the QuickDraw electric rear stabilizer jacks? Because I've never heard any complaints about those before. We did look at the big, hydraulic stabilizers that hang down just behind the axles, but they were cumbersome, hung very, very low (bad ground clearance) - and were expensive. We build one proto with them, test marketed it, and stuck with what we had.
FYI
ST
Cooper
Well-known member
Not realy a complaint it works fine / I think that the rear stabilizer is a little lite for the appilication. I feel that it needs to take on more weight to help stabilizer. I get a lot of movement in the rear of the coach and I am afraid to put to much weight on the stabilizer. Maybe cross bracing that comes down with a stabilizer arms.
On the docking station I understand about the controls, hope you come up with something. One other item is the drainage of the compartment, I know it has the big port for your hoses and electrical but when you disconnect your water hose it fills the bottom. The water stays in there till you mop it out, maybe drain holes or use a flush mounted accessory port. I hope this helps with some ideals.
Thanks for your reply
On the docking station I understand about the controls, hope you come up with something. One other item is the drainage of the compartment, I know it has the big port for your hoses and electrical but when you disconnect your water hose it fills the bottom. The water stays in there till you mop it out, maybe drain holes or use a flush mounted accessory port. I hope this helps with some ideals.
Thanks for your reply
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sharpshooter
Member
Cooper;
You say you carry 80 gal of fuel, what are you using as a extra tank? I have a new Dodge 3500 on order and I would like to add a tank to it.
Send me a private msg if you like.
Thanks
Jerry
You say you carry 80 gal of fuel, what are you using as a extra tank? I have a new Dodge 3500 on order and I would like to add a tank to it.
Send me a private msg if you like.
Thanks
Jerry
Trucks
I (we) try to stay out of the truck discussions because inevitably we will make someone made. People really love their trucks and have deep feelings about which brand they own, what style of bed, cab, engine, etc.
We build great fifth wheels. That's what we are good at and we leave the choice and most of the discussions about what what to tow our fifth wheels with up to the consumers - you.
We are like Switzerland on this one - neutral.
ST
I (we) try to stay out of the truck discussions because inevitably we will make someone made. People really love their trucks and have deep feelings about which brand they own, what style of bed, cab, engine, etc.
We build great fifth wheels. That's what we are good at and we leave the choice and most of the discussions about what what to tow our fifth wheels with up to the consumers - you.
We are like Switzerland on this one - neutral.
ST
I don't think the question is what kind of truck to use, we all know it is a Ford 
(just kidding, relax!). I too have a deposit on a 3400RL and have an F-350 crew cab short bed SRW that seems to sit high (all stock). My dealer wasn't concerned either, but he is 3 hours away so I can't really go measure the pin height. I am not sure how much that would help anyway. I have also read horror stories about flipping axles around. I am not going to do that.
I am a little more comfortable seeing an F-250 pulling a 36 footer out there. I just don't know how much height difference there is between an F-250 and an F-350. I suppose the F-350 could be lowered several inches with lowering shackles I have seen used for that purpose.
(just kidding, relax!). I too have a deposit on a 3400RL and have an F-350 crew cab short bed SRW that seems to sit high (all stock). My dealer wasn't concerned either, but he is 3 hours away so I can't really go measure the pin height. I am not sure how much that would help anyway. I have also read horror stories about flipping axles around. I am not going to do that.I am a little more comfortable seeing an F-250 pulling a 36 footer out there. I just don't know how much height difference there is between an F-250 and an F-350. I suppose the F-350 could be lowered several inches with lowering shackles I have seen used for that purpose.
Cooper
Well-known member
Extra fuel tank and hook up
My tank is a RDS Fuel/Tool box from Tractor Supply, not much tool box. I bolted an electric fuel pump on it and install an electric fuel shutoff switch. Pulled of my fuel filler neck from my pickup tank and brazed a fitting on it to supply my main tank. I have the Ford outfitter package so I wired it to one of the 15amp switches. Works Great
Let me know if you need anymore info.
sharpshooter said:
My tank is a RDS Fuel/Tool box from Tractor Supply, not much tool box. I bolted an electric fuel pump on it and install an electric fuel shutoff switch. Pulled of my fuel filler neck from my pickup tank and brazed a fitting on it to supply my main tank. I have the Ford outfitter package so I wired it to one of the 15amp switches. Works Great
Let me know if you need anymore info.
