Middle and back right jacks won't go down

dana22

Active Member
I've got a 2016 Landmark. The middle and rear jacks on the door side will not go down. The display will say all level when it isn't no matter whether it is done in manual or on automatic. I need to know what's going on.
 

danemayer

Moderator
Staff member
Hi dana22,

Assuming the other jacks are working and slides are working, that means the hydraulic pump is working and the control panel is working. In order for the jacks to extend and retract, 2 things must happen: 1) a valve must open/close to allow/stop movement of hydraulic fluid to/from the hydraulic rams, and 2) the pump must push or pull hydraulic fluid.

So it sounds like your valve is not operating. It could be failing due to an electrical problem, or due to a blockage in the valve. I'd take a look at the wires to the valve first to make sure the connector and wires look ok. I'd hazard a guess that the valve is on the middle jack, at the top.

If that looks ok, you might check the backside of the control panel to ensure the connector is seated fully.
 

dana22

Active Member
Hi dana22,

Assuming the other jacks are working and slides are working, that means the hydraulic pump is working and the control panel is working. In order for the jacks to extend and retract, 2 things must happen: 1) a valve must open/close to allow/stop movement of hydraulic fluid to/from the hydraulic rams, and 2) the pump must push or pull hydraulic fluid.

So it sounds like your valve is not operating. It could be failing due to an electrical problem, or due to a blockage in the valve. I'd take a look at the wires to the valve first to make sure the connector and wires look ok. I'd hazard a guess that the valve is on the middle jack, at the top.

If that looks ok, you might check the backside of the control panel to ensure the connector is seated fully.

The left front jack is the only one with a solenoid with 2 wires attached on this 2016 Ashland .
 

danemayer

Moderator
Staff member
The left front jack is the only one with a solenoid with 2 wires attached on this 2016 Ashland .

If there is only 1 valve, then any time the front jacks move, all jacks would move. That is not how the 6 point levelup system works. Auto-level couldn't work if all jacks moved at the same time.

I've never heard of any 6 point system that doesn't have at least 3 valves; 1 for the front jacks, 1 for the doorside center and rear, and 1 for the off-doorside center and rear. So you need to locate the other valves. The valves may be located on the jacks, or could possibly be located in the front compartment.
 

dana22

Active Member
If there is only 1 valve, then any time the front jacks move, all jacks would move. That is not how the 6 point levelup system works. Auto-level couldn't work if all jacks moved at the same time.

I've never heard of any 6 point system that doesn't have at least 3 valves; 1 for the front jacks, 1 for the doorside center and rear, and 1 for the off-doorside center and rear. So you need to locate the other valves. The valves may be located on the jacks, or could possibly be located in the front compartment.

I found the remaining valves in the front compartment. The middle and rear jacks will only work on manual. If auto-level is pressed, the front jacks adjust, and after a time the display will say leveling successful, and the middle and back jacks are still up.

Ron
 

danemayer

Moderator
Staff member
I found the remaining valves in the front compartment. The middle and rear jacks will only work on manual. If auto-level is pressed, the front jacks adjust, and after a time the display will say leveling successful, and the middle and back jacks are still up.

Ron

If the middle and rear jacks work in manual mode from the control panel, that tells you that the wiring is ok, the valves are ok, the pump is ok, and the jacks are ok.

What's left is the "brain". You could try a cold restart and if that doesn't help, a zero calibration. To do a cold restart, disconnect from shore power and from the tow vehicle and turn off both battery cutoff switches. Generally 10 seconds is enough, but you might wait a little longer before restoring power - maybe 60 seconds.

If that doesn't help, you can do a zero calibration.

ZERO SETTING THE CONTROL
1. Turn “ON/OFF” button “OFF”
2. Push “FRONT” button 10 times,
3. Push “REAR” button 10 times
4. Control will flash and beep, LCD says “ZERO POINT CALIBRATE”
5. To memorize this level condition , press “ENTER”
6. LCD says “ZERO POINT STABILITY SUCCESSFULLY SET”
7. The control will then turn off.
8. Turn “ON/OFF” on to commence operation.

If none of that helps, you'll want to call Lippert Tech Support at 866-524-7821.
 
I have, pretty much the same problem as Dana22. in auto level my curb side middle and rear landing gear start to come down and then stop. the auto level system does its thing and says auto level complete. I can lower the curb side middle and rear landing gear in manual mode. I called Lippert and they told me to do a zero point calibration, that didn't work. They then told me it could be the auto level remote rear sensor. I ordered a replacement rear sensor and received it. Now I am trying to find where the rear remote sensor is located on the frame above the protective sheets covering the underbelly of the coach. My 5th wheel is a 2015 Bighorn 3010RE. anyone who might know where the rear remote sensor is located please let me know. Also, would it be better to take the 5th wheel in and have the rear sensor replaced?
 

danemayer

Moderator
Staff member
I don't know what model/floorplan this picture is from, but it's probably representative. The sensor would likely be on the crossbar located forward of the fresh tank. I'd suggest removing a few screws from the coroplast and peeking inside with a flashlight. Once located, you can cut 3 sides of a rectangle to gain access. Leave the front edge intact. Clean and tape up when done.

Levelup Rear Sensor Location circled.jpg
 
danemayer, Thank you for the response and the picture. I think the picture will help immensely in my search for the rear remote sensor. I also figured that once located I could cut 3 sides of a retangle to gain access as you suggested. Thanks again.
 
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