I'm wanting to install a Mor Ryde pin box but after some research I'm not sure which one. I think it is going to be the 1621hd but I'm not sure about some of the other choices such as 1621hd-4,5, or 6. I have a 2014 Cyclone 300c. I did ask Heartland for their opinion after giving them my serial # and pin # but never got an answer. That was 2 weeks ago so now I'm asking you. Maybe someone with a Cyclone 300c can tell me what they are using. Really confused about numbers.
Mor ryde pin box
- Thread starter 61Hawks
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Tallyrver
Active Member
I installed the Mor/Ryde 1621 \5 on my Gateway ,the 3,4,5,or 6 is the weight of the rig . Mine was the 14,000 to 18,000 weight
i am very happy with mine.
Here is a model chart ,I found mine on Amazon for a great price...$430.00 plus free shipping with Prime ,I found a returned one for 60% off
http://www.morryde.com/uploads/products/files/53/Pin Box Fit Chart.pdf
Wayne
i am very happy with mine.
Here is a model chart ,I found mine on Amazon for a great price...$430.00 plus free shipping with Prime ,I found a returned one for 60% off
http://www.morryde.com/uploads/products/files/53/Pin Box Fit Chart.pdf
Wayne
Tundra2084
Well-known member
Call mor-ryde and tell them the GVWR of your unit and they will tell you which one is best for your unit. We just purchased and had installed the 1621hd #4 (rated for 11,000 to 14,000bls) as suggested by the tech at Mor-Ryde because our unit weighs GVWR 13800 lbs. if we were over 14,000 lbs then it would have been the next one up. I believe the #5 is rated for 14000 to 18000 lb GVWR . Here is the phone number for Mor-ryde 1-574-293-1581. Tell them you want to speak to someone about the purchase of a pinbox and that you need the info ASAP.
Their website is www.morryde.com
Let me say, they were very good when I called them, and was told that if the box they suggested didn't work out,they would replace the next spring set up in weight free of charge within one year of purchase. This weekend will be our first trip out with the new morryde and looking forward to a better ride.
Their website is www.morryde.com
Let me say, they were very good when I called them, and was told that if the box they suggested didn't work out,they would replace the next spring set up in weight free of charge within one year of purchase. This weekend will be our first trip out with the new morryde and looking forward to a better ride.
pegmikef
Well-known member
Mine was installed by the factory when I ordered the BH. I just looked and it does not have the number suffix, but just has the RPB72-1621HD nomenclature on the label and then below it a line that says GVWR 18,000. I didn't know about the different models and was afraid I would be right on the wire because the GVWR of my BH is 14,000, but it is good to know that HL went to the next size up.
Jim.Allison
Well-known member
You really need to look at the Hensley Trailer Saver BD3. Mor-Ryd is good, but if you want to reduce shock to rig and chucking look at the Hensley.
johnpsz
Well-known member
I got a mor/ryde with mine as part of the purchase, I went out and looked and they got me the #5 and it's listed as 14,001-18000# and my GVRW is just under 12K. I called my dealership and they said it's the same stuff just heavier duty and I took a few minutes trying to describe to him that I needed one that matched my GVRW and not the "heavy dutifulness" of it. he was one of those guys that thought heavier duty is always better and I had to describe that the whole point is the rubber being matched to the weight or it would be too stiff and hence no point in the cushioned pin box.
Tundra2084
Well-known member
John that is exactly what the guy at Mor-Ryde told me. If the spring set is to heavy for your rig then it defeats the purpose because it's gonna give you a stiffer ride. He said to get the one for our weight and IF that wasn't enough then we could swap it out for the heavier spring but to try it first because that's the weight it's made for. Our rigs GVWR is listed at 13850 so fully loaded we are still under the 14000 lbs it's rated for at the very top. The #4 is rated for a unit that weighs between 11500 and 14000 and the #5 is rated for as you stated 14,000 to 18,000 lbs.
NWILSON
Kentucky Chapter Leaders - retired
I started with the 14000-18000 for our Cyclone with GVWR of 18000. Because we are most always crowding the high side we were seeing the travel of the "spring" going to the limits regularly. One call to MorRyde and the higher weight spring was on it's way.
MorRyde is extremely good to work with if you find that you need to use a different spring. Swapping them out isn't much of an ordeal either. I was able to do it alone.
MorRyde is extremely good to work with if you find that you need to use a different spring. Swapping them out isn't much of an ordeal either. I was able to do it alone.
porthole
Retired
Good idea if one wants to spend 5-6 times the price of a pin box, have a hitch that will wear prematurely and have inferior customer service.
Jim.Allison
Well-known member
porthole
Retired
Your BD3 is similar to the TS3, and the head assembly looks to be about the same.
How many grease fittings are on yours?
On my TS3 there were 2 grease fittings, that greased a pin in an area where there was no movement.
High stress-load areas - the pin for side to side pivot, the pins for fore and aft pivot, the pins for the jaws have no greasing capability.
Get a cup of coffee and look at this thread.
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/31683-Hensley-TrailerSaver-TS-3-squeaks?highlight=hensley
Jim.Allison
Well-known member
I have no zerks. None are needed if you know how to lubricate equipment. I found it humorous that no one, not even Hensley knew how to lubricate a partially rotating pin and bushing system.
WD-40? what a joke, heck you could just put some mineral oil with a oil can, perhaps some sewing machine oil, and do more than WD-40 (water displacer formula 40) as a lubricant. The WD 40 was recommended to displace the moisture, not to lubricate it. It amazes me that Hensley did not know this. The gaulding was caused by moisture and dirt not lubrication, if they would have put the WD-40 in there the gaulding would not have occurred. I do not use WD-40 but perhaps I should occasionally. It will displace the moisture and re activate my moly.
Those pins can be easily lubricated with an aerosol molybdenum disulfide with a penetrating carrier. Simple.
What is worse is that the yellow zinc chromate was still present on the shafting material in the pics. There was gaulding from dirt, water and resulting corrosion but no wear.
Yes the grease zerk idea is a good one in that a squirt of grease would purge moisture and dirt, while providing an easy portal for lubrication, but he continues to use the wrong grease. An EP moly is the proper grease for this application. But the lack of lubrication is what caused the squeak problem and the lack of lubrication was due to absolutely no-one knowing how to lubricate those pins. What makes matters worse is that the pins were absolutely serviceable. Hensley was generous in providing him new ones.
I will use my Trailer Saver BD3 with more confidence than ever after reading that link. And BTW, my zinc chromated shafts have no wear on them. About the dampener (shock), what the heck, go buy a set of shocks for it.
If my pins ever do wear out and Hensley won't provide them at a reasonable price I will have a local machine shop make me some parts.
molybdenum disulfide aerosol with penetrant is how to lubricate a Hensley unless you have a hobby of disassembling equipment and installing improvements. Then grease zerks are good, but use a EP moly.
If Hensley misled this man by telling him to lubricate with WD-40, then they need to quit telling industrial suppliers that they dont want to buy anything from them and instead they need to invite them in to help address their lubrication problems. LOL. Im amazed. I understand the consumer not knowing but the manufacturer? WTH.
IMHO
BTW, I do like me some coffee in the evening.
WD-40? what a joke, heck you could just put some mineral oil with a oil can, perhaps some sewing machine oil, and do more than WD-40 (water displacer formula 40) as a lubricant. The WD 40 was recommended to displace the moisture, not to lubricate it. It amazes me that Hensley did not know this. The gaulding was caused by moisture and dirt not lubrication, if they would have put the WD-40 in there the gaulding would not have occurred. I do not use WD-40 but perhaps I should occasionally. It will displace the moisture and re activate my moly.
Those pins can be easily lubricated with an aerosol molybdenum disulfide with a penetrating carrier. Simple.
What is worse is that the yellow zinc chromate was still present on the shafting material in the pics. There was gaulding from dirt, water and resulting corrosion but no wear.
Yes the grease zerk idea is a good one in that a squirt of grease would purge moisture and dirt, while providing an easy portal for lubrication, but he continues to use the wrong grease. An EP moly is the proper grease for this application. But the lack of lubrication is what caused the squeak problem and the lack of lubrication was due to absolutely no-one knowing how to lubricate those pins. What makes matters worse is that the pins were absolutely serviceable. Hensley was generous in providing him new ones.
I will use my Trailer Saver BD3 with more confidence than ever after reading that link. And BTW, my zinc chromated shafts have no wear on them. About the dampener (shock), what the heck, go buy a set of shocks for it.
If my pins ever do wear out and Hensley won't provide them at a reasonable price I will have a local machine shop make me some parts.
molybdenum disulfide aerosol with penetrant is how to lubricate a Hensley unless you have a hobby of disassembling equipment and installing improvements. Then grease zerks are good, but use a EP moly.
If Hensley misled this man by telling him to lubricate with WD-40, then they need to quit telling industrial suppliers that they dont want to buy anything from them and instead they need to invite them in to help address their lubrication problems. LOL. Im amazed. I understand the consumer not knowing but the manufacturer? WTH.
IMHO
BTW, I do like me some coffee in the evening.
porthole
Retired
Well at least I now know that what I thought I knew was all wrong, especially with what I thought I knew about compressive loads causing galling of metal surfaces.
What I do not know then is why my parts have a much greater clearance then they had when originally assembled considering typical galling is the transfer of material form one surface to another. Although there is galling, there is also the loss of material. The 1/16" deep grooves really have me wondering now, as well as the nearly 1/8" - 1/4" of play between the pins and upright supports.
And I still do not know how any penetrating lube would migrate it's way into the the 1 1/8" pin that supports the entire head assembly, considering that "bolt" is torqued down pretty good, essentially sealing the cavity it runs through.
As to buying new shocks that leaked in a few months on a $2500+ hitch - why would one not want a warranted item warrantied?
And although I do not know much, I do know that I rest comfortably with no gaulding, especially considering the environment I work in with the gear I use.
What I do not know then is why my parts have a much greater clearance then they had when originally assembled considering typical galling is the transfer of material form one surface to another. Although there is galling, there is also the loss of material. The 1/16" deep grooves really have me wondering now, as well as the nearly 1/8" - 1/4" of play between the pins and upright supports.
And I still do not know how any penetrating lube would migrate it's way into the the 1 1/8" pin that supports the entire head assembly, considering that "bolt" is torqued down pretty good, essentially sealing the cavity it runs through.
As to buying new shocks that leaked in a few months on a $2500+ hitch - why would one not want a warranted item warrantied?
And although I do not know much, I do know that I rest comfortably with no gaulding, especially considering the environment I work in with the gear I use.
Jim.Allison
Well-known member
Its cool man, I was directed to your photos to look at, by you, I think, and you invited a response. I looked at them and saw what I saw. I was not there, its your hitch, you gotta do what you gotta do. But indicting all Hensley hitches, because you had a problem is unreasonable, and indicting Aaron in customer service is even more unreasonable as he sent the parts you asked for. This whole thing makes me wonder what you are doing to your hitch that breaks a Monroe Shock and gives you 1/4 in of play and 1/16 inch metal wear on your pin.
If I might offer you some advice (it is worth what you pay for it, in this case nothing). Since you installed the zerks (good idea, commendations to you), you should use an Extreme Pressure Moly (EP Moly) for those partially rotating pins. That pin set up is a difficult lubrication problem in all applications where it is used. The consensus is the EP moly is the lube spec for it (don't take my word for it look it up). You have the zerks installed now (improvement), get the grease. Get a name brand too, not some WalMart knock off. The reason you need a moly and not a GP is that the pin does not get lubed on the load bearing side because it does not rotate and cannot drag a a GP grease film into the load bearing area, like would happen in a fully rotating shaft application. EP moly on the other hand does not "get squashed out" so to speak by the load, but by its nature is a permanent film there separating the pin from the block, the required film is augmented by your regular lube program. You might even consider an Alemite spring loaded grease cup to grease the whole system from one location.
I just think that a 70 year old hitch head design is fairly proven. Perhaps because it was designed to be mounted to the trailer to accept a kingpin on a truck which is opposite than how we are running them, if lubrication was easier that way?
I have not taken mine apart yet but I intend to. If I see what you are seeing then I will do as you have done. The BD3 does not have the partially rotating pin, but rather sliders. And mine are clean. Infact my zinc chromate is still intact, not 100%, but still there.
But
If I might offer you some advice (it is worth what you pay for it, in this case nothing). Since you installed the zerks (good idea, commendations to you), you should use an Extreme Pressure Moly (EP Moly) for those partially rotating pins. That pin set up is a difficult lubrication problem in all applications where it is used. The consensus is the EP moly is the lube spec for it (don't take my word for it look it up). You have the zerks installed now (improvement), get the grease. Get a name brand too, not some WalMart knock off. The reason you need a moly and not a GP is that the pin does not get lubed on the load bearing side because it does not rotate and cannot drag a a GP grease film into the load bearing area, like would happen in a fully rotating shaft application. EP moly on the other hand does not "get squashed out" so to speak by the load, but by its nature is a permanent film there separating the pin from the block, the required film is augmented by your regular lube program. You might even consider an Alemite spring loaded grease cup to grease the whole system from one location.
I just think that a 70 year old hitch head design is fairly proven. Perhaps because it was designed to be mounted to the trailer to accept a kingpin on a truck which is opposite than how we are running them, if lubrication was easier that way?
I have not taken mine apart yet but I intend to. If I see what you are seeing then I will do as you have done. The BD3 does not have the partially rotating pin, but rather sliders. And mine are clean. Infact my zinc chromate is still intact, not 100%, but still there.
But
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