More valve problems

[gotlieb]

Long story short, all 3 of my waste valves are leaking. I have the actuated cable valves, and they are nothing but a pain in the you know what.

I dropped part of the underbelly to get at the valves and I can see that when I pull and push the cable at the UDC, the valve only closes about half way. I can reach the valve and push the piece all the way in so that is closed. I checked the cables and they don't appear to be binding any where. They are fairly hard to push and pull though.

Before I rip them out, any other thoughts about how to make these **** things work like they are supposed to?

Also, if I do have to rip these out, is there any advantage to using the electric ones? A little pricey, but seems like it would be less hassle.

Thanks in advance.

 

[gotlieb]

Re: More vavle problems


Open Valve


"Closed" Valve


Fully Closed after I push it

 

[danemayer]

Re: More vavle problems

There have been some other threads discussing valves that are difficult to operate. One possible problem is the valve itself. If it doesn't move freely, it doesn't matter how good or bad the cable is. When you push the valve plunger by hand from underneath, does it move easily? If not, maybe try to lubricate it. Not sure if you have to take it apart to do so.

 

[gotlieb]

Re: More vavle problems

I've read some of the other threads, but seems like the "solution" is to use a twist on valve and just deal with it. I already have one of those, but my problem is only getting worse. I don't want to end up with a plugged black tank because of a leak.

I can push the plunger pretty easily. So it seems like a cable problem, but I don't know what it would be. There are no sharp bends and nothing is blocking path from the handle to the valve.

 

[JohnDar]

Re: More vavle problems

I've read some of the other threads, but seems like the "solution" is to use a twist on valve and just deal with it. I already have one of those, but my problem is only getting worse. I don't want to end up with a plugged black tank because of a leak.

I can push the plunger pretty easily. So it seems like a cable problem, but I don't know what it would be. There are no sharp bends and nothing is blocking path from the handle to the valve.

How long have they been like this? Did the resistance seem to increase over time or have they always been difficult? If the plunger moves freely, as you say, then there has to be something wrong in the cable sleeve. Try lubricating the entry point for the handles, since they see the most environmental exposure. Could be a buildup of corrosion in the sleeve that's making the handles hard to operate. You might be able to examine the sleeves closer to see if there are any dents or crimps in them.

 

[gotlieb]

Re: More vavle problems

They've always been a little hard to operate, but seem to be getting worse. The handles shouldn't see any environmental exposure as they are inside the camper in the UDC and I always keep that door shut (and locked to prevent someone from pulling the cables as a joke).

I'll try spraying some lube I have for my slide outs on there and work it in a few times. Might also try some dish soap or something to lube the valve itself.

 

[olcoon]

Re: More vavle problems

I've got basically the same problem. The odd thing is that when I take the valve out, it works just fine, when it's installed, it is hard to move and the handles won't go all the way in. I can see no sharp bends in the cable when the valve is installed. I've finally decided that's the way it'll be, and installed the valve where the stinky slinky hooks up.

 

[JohnDar]

Re: More vavle problems

More S.W.A.G. on my part. If you can, have someone manipulate the pull handles while you watch the cables from below. See if they move a lot. Could be they bend/flex some (excess length) causing them to restrict and not fully operate the valve.

As for the corrosion idea, mine are also in the locked UDC, but the metal doesn't look as pristine as when we first got it. The black tank handle always sits a little proud of the seat, unlike the other two. And it has a little give when I try to push it all the way in, yet it springs back out. It's a little harder to operate than the other two, but it doesn't leak. I keep the clear backflush adapter and secondary valve on my sewer pipe when parked at the CG. The valve is closed unless I'm dumping (no, the white water line is not used for the flush !).

View attachment 31141

 

[gotlieb]

Re: More vavle problems

I've been messing with this a little more. I'll clarify that the black tank valve is easy to close by hand, but the Grey #1 is not (grey #2 seems easier). It seems to get progressively harder to close each time (or more likely, I'm getting more tired). The cable just doesn't provide enough force to fully close the valve. I can push the handle all the way in, and when I let go, it will pop back out. I can hold it in and it will slowly close to about half way before it will not go any further.

Could this be due to the valve seals? My Grey # 1 is bathroom sink and shower. There shouldn't have been any large debris that would have caused problems.

And now my next question is, how would you even replace the valve? My grey #1 valve is attached almost directly to the tank, and then is attached to a curved section that hooks right up to the piece that connects to the black tank drain pipe. It's less than a foot of all curved pipe. Assuming all this is glued, I would have to replace all this grey pipe as well as cut into the 3 inch black drain pipe before I could splice a new piece on. I'm not a plumber, so maybe there is another way.

 

[gotlieb]

Re: More vavle problems

More S.W.A.G. on my part. If you can, have someone manipulate the pull handles while you watch the cables from below. See if they move a lot. Could be they bend/flex some (excess length) causing them to restrict and not fully operate the valve.

Tried this. All cables seem to operate fine. They do spring back when I push them in. I also checked the cable casings and all seems good there.

My grey #2 (kitchen) has leaked since we bought it and the dealer said it was probably a piece of debris causing the gate to not fully close. However, that only ever allowed about a gallon or two of waste out. Now it seems like they don't even close more than half way.

On our last trip with full hookup, I drained all tanks and ran the black tank flush for half an hour. Let the valves open for another hour. Everything should have been drained. That was a week ago. Today, I filled up a five gallon bucket (and then some) just by opening the safety valve. That was not pleasant. Assuming there was stuff left in the tank that gravity kept away from the outlet, but reiterates my point that the valves weren't closed.

 

[TedS]

Re: More vavle problems

Gotlieb, to replace a valve you remove 4 screws and nuts. Spring the plumbing to release the valve body and pull the valve body out from the plumbing.

 

[gotlieb]

Re: More vavle problems

Gotlieb, to replace a valve you remove 4 screws and nuts. Spring the plumbing to release the valve body and pull the valve body out from the plumbing.

Are you talking about just replacing the inner part of the valve and not the entire assembly? The pipe that connects to the valve assembly appears to be glued together.

 

[TedS]

Re: More vavle problems

There are flanges glued to the pipe. The valve body is held between these flanges with four bolts and nuts. The valve body can be removed from between the flanges. You might go to rv101.tv for a valve tutorial by Valtera.

 

[TedS]

Re: More vavle problems

Here is another youtube video showing replacing a waste valve.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-AFa9hyrpI

 

[Gary521]

Re: More vavle problems

I had a similar problem. To remove the valve, you probably will need to cut some drain lines. Plan your task so that when you put I back together, It can be done with rubber connections or slip fittings on the 1-1/2" lines. Use new seals and use seal lubricant when going back together or the valves don't seem to move easily. You probably have something wedged in the valves.
.

 

[Gary521]

Re: More vavle problems

I watched that video before I did mine. However, in my case, it was impossible to remove the valve without cutting some lines. Hopefully, you will not have to cut but maintenance is not planned when these things are assembled.

 

[danemayer]

Before cutting anything, watch the video in post #14. Also, before taking the valve apart, drain the tanks and then set up a little off-level so any remaining fluid in the tanks is away from the valve.

 

[gotlieb]

The video makes it look easy. I haven't tried this yet, but my pipes don't have any play in them to allow much wiggle room to remove the inner part of the valve assembly. And there is no straight pipe connected to the valve, so if I have to cut anything, it's almost a complete overhaul of the entire waste system.

Had to run and grab a new wrench set, so I guess I'll try it now.

 

[gotlieb]

Alright, I managed to get the valve out. Not an easy task, especially since they let some of the glue glob up across the bottom of the valve assembly.

I will post pics after I'm done, but have another question now. I've cleaned up the valve and have been working it back and forth to get some easier movement out of it. But I see another problem with how the valve was installed. Even with the handle fully pushed in at the UDC, the valve is not completely closed.

Before I rip anything else apart, how do I fix this? Is the cable just not in the valve correctly? It seems like the valve would close all the way if I could push the cable farther, but it is all the way in at the UDC.

 

[danemayer]

Is there a setscrew that holds the cable to the plunger? Maybe it's out of adjustment. I think worst case you might have cut a little bit of the sheath so more of the center cable sticks out and is available to the plunger.