need feedback on 6 pt leveling systems (good, bad and the ugly)

[danemayer]

If you run the batteries down or have an electrical failure, but the pump and hydraulics system are ok, you can use the Manual Procedure to operate the leveling system and slide outs. Here's a link. You'd need a battery powered drill that has a good charge, a hex bit, the right size allen wrench to operate the valves manually, and knowledge of the valve locations, which varies by model and floorplan.

 

[dieseldoug]

thanks for that link -- my bad I was looking in the wrong place (coach owners manual) for this information! . I take it that if you have hydraulic failure you are toast -- there is no way to operate, retract or extend the jacks with elbow grease?

 

[porthole]

I take it that if you have hydraulic failure you are toast -- there is no way to operate, retract or extend the jacks with elbow grease?

Would have been a good question at the Goshen rally.

My guess - slowly loosen the fittings at the each jack, one at a time and push the ram up ???

 

[danemayer]

Depends on the hydraulic failure and whether all your slides and landing gear are on separate valves.

I think you might be able retract the large hydraulic slides manually by using a wrench to turn the square rod that connects the gears on each end. Hydraulic pressure would have to be released first, by opening the valve manually. Then you'd have to close the valve and use straps to keep the slide secure.

To hitch up, you'd probably have to use jacks on each front corner to lift the front of the trailer. Getting the landing gear retracted would probably be difficult. You might be able to use jacks to force them up, again with the valves open. With shared valves (mid/rear jacks on a 6 point), you might have to apply pressure to both jacks to force the fluid back to the reservoir.

It is possible to get on-site repair work done on the hydraulics. I recall someone coming to a North Texas Rally had a tire failure that took out a hydraulic line. A local shop came out and fixed it at the campground.

 

[porthole]

The Walker's had LevelUp installed at the rally and a dedicated pump was put in.
Sounds like a future mod, couple of Tee's and valves and you could have a backup pump and tank.

 

[JWalker]

A separate hydraulic system from the one that runs our slides.

The Walker's had LevelUp installed at the rally and a dedicated pump was put in.
Sounds like a future mod, couple of Tee's and valves and you could have a backup pump and tank.

 

[dieseldoug]

good conversation, all, thanks. I suspect that electrical failure is much higher probability than hydraulic failure, in which case the Lippert over ride system (as pointed out by danemayer should work well. Essentially (thanks danemayer) this allows one to run the hydraulic pump with a drill, even if you have complete electrical failure. probably better have good batteries in the drill, as the total amount of energy required to manipulate a 15,000 lb trailer is not trivial! Anyway, this goes a LONG way to providing a workable "manual override" capability.

I should point out that that "complete hydraulic failure" means (essentially) failure of the Lippert pump -- an inability to pressurize any portion of the Lippert system such that "nothing works". That's a pretty serious situation and hopefully rare. When I called Lippert, I learned that in this situation one usually asks a Lippert technician to come out (as danemayer has already pointed out). Lippert also confirmed (as did danemayer) that it would be possible to remove bolts (if you have a separate jack of some sort) and lift the landing gears up one by one so you can get back on the road.

One should probably realize that "something less than complete hydraulic failure" is more likely. individual lines can fail, individual cylinders can fail, etc. In this situation, it should be possible to raise the "offending" landing gear manually just as danemayer pointed out, and manually remove it.

 

[teasac69]

We just picked up our 2016 Big Horn 3875FB with the auto leveling and we love it!

One question though, we have now experienced FIVE feet down and ONE middle foot not on the ground yet the display is reading "level"......how do we get the one foot down onto the ground, it is only about one inch off the concrete pad and it just does not seem like this is how the system was meant to work.

Thanks in advance.
Susan

Mine does the same thing, on a full extension leveling, the middle leg under the entry door won't touch the ground. I bought some of those plastic blocks and just throw one down before it starts the leveling routine and now it's always in use.

 

[teasac69]

good conversation, all, thanks. I suspect that electrical failure is much higher probability than hydraulic failure, in which case the Lippert over ride system (as pointed out by danemayer should work well. Essentially (thanks danemayer) this allows one to run the hydraulic pump with a drill, even if you have complete electrical failure. probably better have good batteries in the drill, as the total amount of energy required to manipulate a 15,000 lb trailer is not trivial! Anyway, this goes a LONG way to providing a workable "manual override" capability.

I should point out that that "complete hydraulic failure" means (essentially) failure of the Lippert pump -- an inability to pressurize any portion of the Lippert system such that "nothing works". That's a pretty serious situation and hopefully rare. When I called Lippert, I learned that in this situation one usually asks a Lippert technician to come out (as danemayer has already pointed out). Lippert also confirmed (as did danemayer) that it would be possible to remove bolts (if you have a separate jack of some sort) and lift the landing gears up one by one so you can get back on the road.

One should probably realize that "something less than complete hydraulic failure" is more likely. individual lines can fail, individual cylinders can fail, etc. In this situation, it should be possible to raise the "offending" landing gear manually just as danemayer pointed out, and manually remove it.

My BH came with a flex extension that is used for putting in a DeWalt or drill and using as a hydraulic motor substitute.

My question to the gang is this.... when I was pulling up the jacks this week after a few weeks stored, they growled and squeaked pretty loud. What do you use to lub your cylinders? don't want to hurt the seals?

thanks

 

[avvidclif]

I have seen Silicone Spray recommended. Spray and wipe them down.

 

[teasac69]

Trust me I'm not trying to run up my "posts" number........ just seems that way.

I did want to comment that my auto level was a MUST for my new Big Horn, that whole leveling process is a killer for a guy with a really bad back. Its really nice to pull in and push one button and watch the magic. I will agree with the comments to make sure you move your tow vehicle completely out from under the coach. When it starts leveling, it might lower to start.

Also I have found that when the nose is really going to be low, it doesn't like to auto level. I have reset it and when the front jacks are going to be bottomed out to level the coach, it won't auto level.

Just a rookie user questions too: when packing up to depart, I always retract the rear jacks manually so when raising the front jacks to get on the truck I'm not raising the front against the rear/mid jacks. That's a bit of a lazy man problem but not a big deal. am I missing anything about auto function when pulling out?? The way I figure it, if I raise the rear/mid jacks manually then the front will raise on the axles and pivot versus having to push against the rear jacks and then use auto retract once you're on the 5th wheel. I'm always the last to know so I'm probably overlooking a function this rascal has that I don't know how to use.

thanks always for all the good stuff. you guys are still the best.

 

[jnbhobe]

Your right center and rear jacks are tied together and so are the left ones. When you raise or lower the front the fluid goes back and forth where needed so you don't put extra strain anywhere.

 

[kakampers]

I always use the button on the front of the coach to take the fiver on and off the truck.....we use autolevel whenever possible. It's rare that it won't auto level due to an overly unlevel site, but it happens. Once I have the fiver safely hitched back onto the truck...I use the auto retract button to pull up the rest of the legs...raising and lower the front works in unison with the rest of the level up.

 

[Miltp920]

I just learned something here that may have been part of my PDI, but...
I have been retracting the middle and rear in manual before I raise the front to hook up. You are saying that with all 6 down, you raise the front to hitch up and the middle and the rear change as needed to not over stress any jack(s)? Does auto retract bring up all 6, or just the middle and rear? I use the front switch to raise the front after it is on the truck. The middle and rear are already up. I use a wheel chock to keep the 5er from moving until it is on the truck. I may need to alter my use of 6 point, to get the most out of this great upgrade.

I always use the button on the front of the coach to take the fiver on and off the truck.....we use autolevel whenever possible. It's rare that it won't auto level due to an overly unlevel site, but it happens. Once I have the fiver safely hitched back onto the truck...I use the auto retract button to pull up the rest of the legs...raising and lower the front works in unison with the rest of the level up.

 

[cookie]

Once you are hitched up and the jaws are locked you can just hit the auto retract. No need to manually retract anything.
I normally lower the front of the trailer to get some of the weight on the truck before I hit auto retract.

Peace
Dave

 

[Mrsfish]

Yes, the middle and rear legs will adjust the selfs as you raise or lower the front. Lippert taught us to use the manual front legs to load the trailer and THEN, after hitched, use the control pad to do FULL RETRACT.

 

[Miltp920]

I will try this next hitch up.

Yes, the middle and rear legs will adjust the selfs as you raise or lower the front. Lippert taught us to use the manual front legs to load the trailer and THEN, after hitched, use the control pad to do FULL RETRACT.

 

[porthole]

Get someone to push the button for you and stand back and watch.

When you extend the front jacks to raise the trailer, the middle jacks will extend some and the rear jacks may retract or extend as needed. Either way, the pressure on the rear jacks will remain the same keeping the frame straight.

It really is a great system.

My typical hook up procedure is raise the rig to hitch up, auto retract to bring all the jacks up, manually lower the fronts to the ground to get even pressure, then raise the fronts about a 1/2".
Brake pull test then auto retract again and then visually inspect that all jacks are up all the way.

Do not do a brake test with any of the jacks on the ground. If the trailer moves you can very easily bend the aluminum ram.

Go ahead and ask me how I know

 

[porthole]

Don't bother asking, I'll save ya the trouble.

Bent ram repair

 

[Miltp920]

NICE, works just like you said. i like my 6 pt even more now!

I will try this next hitch up.