New 2017 super duty numbers....DROOL!!

bdb2047

Well-known member
First tow with 17/ 450 2400 miles now
Trailer 17100# 3500# pin Mor/ryde IS 17.5 tires
Truck is 13100# with trailer
Trailer caused truck to set down 3 1/4" truck and trailer both level,checked with 4' level on level cement pad,no air bags,with trailer truck just starting to touch helper springs. 6+" clearance to bed rails,hitch same position as old truck.
1000 miles Fl to Pa 9 MPG in general truck rides better and is quieter than 13 was but rough roads(I-95) are more noticeable adaptive cruise is great, massage seats work and do help.Cannot reach into bed to work hitch need step stool but if left in bed cannot reach to use will have to see about bed step like Jerrod did.
Nav sucks cannot understand why they do not offer something meant for use by truckers.
Camera system does work good for hitching and every day use have not set up TPMS yet need to get larger valve stems for tires may wait till next year when tires are replaced
Brake controller works better than 13 did able to adjust sensitivity not sure when that was added
48 gal fuel tank is great not sure if I will add an auxiliary tank to it
 

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
Sounds like you might be happy with it.😁
I just did my 7500 mile first service and it's definitely breaking in. Better milage and even more power climbing the hills. My adverage from day 1 with and without Trailer. I'm calling 50/50
Is 11.4 I think
Without Trailer I'm getting over 16 with my lead foot and adhesive driving habits. I'm calling it pretty good. Love my camera system :)
The engine and transmission slows me down on the hills perfectly even before I turn on the exhaust brake. I'm definitely glad I went with the F350 as the ride is amazing.
Congratulations on your new truck

Enjoy !!!
Jerrod


Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 

porthole

Retired
First tow with 17/ 450 2400 miles now
Trailer 17100# 3500# pin Mor/ryde IS 17.5 tires
Truck is 13100# with trailer
Trailer caused truck to set down 3 1/4" truck and trailer both level,checked with 4' level on level cement pad,no air bags,with trailer truck just starting to touch helper springs. 6+" clearance to bed rails,hitch same position as old truck.
1000 miles Fl to Pa 9 MPG in general truck rides better and is quieter than 13 was but rough roads(I-95) are more noticeable adaptive cruise is great, massage seats work and do help.Cannot reach into bed to work hitch need step stool but if left in bed cannot reach to use will have to see about bed step like Jerrod did.
Nav sucks cannot understand why they do not offer something meant for use by truckers.
Camera system does work good for hitching and every day use have not set up TPMS yet need to get larger valve stems for tires may wait till next year when tires are replaced
Brake controller works better than 13 did able to adjust sensitivity not sure when that was added
48 gal fuel tank is great not sure if I will add an auxiliary tank to it


Dave, do you think the the rough roads difference is because you are just hitting the tabs for the helpers?

Before I put the air ride on mine that is what I noticed on days that I did not have the garage loaded to offset the pin weight.
The less weight in the garage, the more noticeable the bumps. I had to replace the rubber pads on the helpers a couple of times because they either fell off or were torn/ripped and fell off.
The ride difference was especially noticeable if I had just enough pin weight where I was just hitting the pads occasionally, was harsh.
 
Last edited:

sjandbj

Well-known member
I know Jerrod installed the air lift. Has anyone else found the need to install the air bags. I love the ride on my 2017 when the trailer is not connected, nice and smooth even on rough roads, but when it is connected mine seems to be a little too soft for my liking. I am not sure if the air bags are the answer or just something I need to adapt to. I would not trade the truck for anything out there. It is a sweet towing beast just need to get it all adjusted.
 

porthole

Retired
I'm going to have to guess, but I think when any of us talk about ride, loaded or unloaded, we should refer to the model.

250-350 SRW
350 DRW
450
 

Bones

Well-known member
I'm going to have to guess, but I think when any of us talk about ride, loaded or unloaded, we should refer to the model.

250-350 SRW
350 DRW
450


She was relatively young, blondish with great shoes. Sometimes the rear is hard to get around and over but with a slight step you can get over. She just loves to make the clickety-clack clickety-clack sound when waiting. And when you make her work she is very thirsty.
 

bdb2047

Well-known member
Dave, do you think the the rough roads difference is because you are just hitting the tabs for the helpers?

Before Id d the air ride on mine that is what I noticed on days that I did not have the garage loaded to offset the pin weight.
The less weight in the garage, the more noticeable the bumps. I had to replace the rubber pads on the helpers a couple of times because they either fell off or were torn/ripped and fell off.
The ride difference was especially noticeable if I had just enough pin weight where I was just hitting the pads occasionally, was harsh.
Duane
You could be right.I was thinking bags for leveling would not be needed but using them to help cushion suspension might help.Or give Kelderman a call.In looking at helpers after trip can see where they were hitting pads but no wear on them.
 
Last edited:

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
I'm a firm believer in the air bags not only to level the truck but the RIDE is way way better.
Of course the Kelderman option is awesome and maybe someday I'll get to do it , but back to what I have now.....
The AirLift system I have now has completely changed the ride while pulling the big Landmark.
I run at about 55psi and that raises it enough to where the overload springs are not touching the pads at all.
The other day we hooked up and I set the bags on 55psi or at least I thought I did. Then heading home we were kinda getting beaten to death, you could feel it chucking and really rough and beating you in the back of the seat. I said something not right here. I checked the remote control and some how I had only set it on 35psi not 55psi.
I bumped it up 2 more clicks to 55 you could completely feel the ride change... A night and day difference in 10 seconds.


Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 

porthole

Retired
On the Ford FTE forum, one of the members figured out which wires control the back up lights (LED version) and added a relay to cut the lights out using an up-fitter.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1483307-reverse-lights-off-mod.html


This has been a project on the list that I still haven't done, but my plan was to just add a make break switch.

- - - Updated - - -

The 5 pin version of the automotive relay can be wired normally closed or normally open. That is what the member did there. Turn up-fitter on, relay closes, opening the through circuit.

The standard relay most people see is 4 pins and normally open.

- - - Updated - - -

USA version of the Amazon relay link
 

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
Awesome Duane
That's been on my list. I just haven't got around to finding the relay yet. I'm still trying to figure out this new Ford.
I'll just fire it up with the same #4 upfitter switch that turns on my RV back up lights. And kill two birds with one stone.


Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 

porthole

Retired
Our trailer had flood lights already over the ramp door.

During one of my jobs I ran a wire from the pin box to those flood lights. They come on whenever I put the truck in reverse. I thought about switching them manually from the dash but opted to always on in reverse for 'notification' purposes.

Cyclone rear flood lights reverse lights
 

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
I had to do some bench testing but I have it figured out. . To impaciant to wait for the water proof one's from Amazon. I'll just seal this one for now.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
Top