New Transporter Truck
- Thread starter pmmjarrett
- Start date
-
- Tags
- truck
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
Cut the end of the frame off at 39'9". This leaves me just enough room for a 2"x4" reqtangular steel tube bumper I'm going to install oval LED tail lights in and 1" for a tail light guard and brackets for the pin on ramps to take it to the full 40'0"..... Might have to grind off a hair to leave room for paint LOL
Cut one side of the actual 8 degree beavertail portion of the drop frame. Loading height to the top of the rear bumper is only 19.25"
Cut one side of the actual 8 degree beavertail portion of the drop frame. Loading height to the top of the rear bumper is only 19.25"
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
Making progress. Got the last 2 crossmembers bolted in, installed and greased the new driveshaft and installed the new rear shocks. All hardware is grade 8 with real locknuts (not that nylock stuff) or locktite
Driveshaft was a bit of a pain as I had to modify 2 of the carrier bearing hangers because one shaft I needed was a longer than the longest tube they could get for a driveshaft and they had to make up the difference in the shafts at each end of the longest shaft. Not really a big deal as I knew this before they made the driveshaft but it was very time consuming.
Frame stretch is just about done. Still have to extend the brake lines, bleed the brakes, weld in the frame splice reinforcements, weld up the drop frame and run wiring and lights to the back and it's drivable.
Shaft held in place for measuring carrier bearing hanger modifications
Look Ma... New invention.... flexible vibration dampening carrier bearing hangers LOL
Midship hanger... Modified with a 7" section of left over frame rail.
Front Hanger.....Modified using a section of a leftover crossmember and some 1/4" flat bar for gussets.
Shocks in
Gotta watch clearances. This was the brake line before I moved it. It now has 1/2" of clearance from the shock.
Driveshaft was a bit of a pain as I had to modify 2 of the carrier bearing hangers because one shaft I needed was a longer than the longest tube they could get for a driveshaft and they had to make up the difference in the shafts at each end of the longest shaft. Not really a big deal as I knew this before they made the driveshaft but it was very time consuming.
Frame stretch is just about done. Still have to extend the brake lines, bleed the brakes, weld in the frame splice reinforcements, weld up the drop frame and run wiring and lights to the back and it's drivable.
Shaft held in place for measuring carrier bearing hanger modifications
Look Ma... New invention.... flexible vibration dampening carrier bearing hangers LOL
Midship hanger... Modified with a 7" section of left over frame rail.
Front Hanger.....Modified using a section of a leftover crossmember and some 1/4" flat bar for gussets.
Shocks in
Gotta watch clearances. This was the brake line before I moved it. It now has 1/2" of clearance from the shock.
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
You mean I should'nt do a #0 grind on the fuel plate and drop some marine 370 injectors in the 12 valve Cummins
Oh man can you imagine the carnage of 20' of driveshaft whipping around. I'd say judging by some of the video on Youtube that there has to be some idiot out there that has at least tried running like this
Oh man can you imagine the carnage of 20' of driveshaft whipping around. I'd say judging by some of the video on Youtube that there has to be some idiot out there that has at least tried running like this
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
What, you don't wanna test drive it with me in a few days.Oh man, I can't begin to imagine it,,,,,, 20' 4 section shaft with one slip joint....... it would be ugly....I wonder how far the 4th shaft would fly when it when the slip spline came apart at 2000 RPM. That's what it is spinning in 4th gear at only 55 mph.
Thankfully you'll never see me on Youtube
jimtoo
Moderator
Yep.. I would love to test drive the monster with you. But, your up North and it's cold and I don't like cold weather, so I will stay here and wait for you to get down this way so I can drive it after it's all finished. Or maybe next June in Goshen at the Rally. Man...that's gonna be a monster on a turn.
Keep up the good work, it's really looking great.
Thanks for all the photos and keeping us updated.
Jim M
Keep up the good work, it's really looking great.
Thanks for all the photos and keeping us updated.
Jim M
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
North, I'm on about the same parrallel as the Texas panhandle 50 miles from the SC line, was 65F and sunny today....Oh and "U" turns are definatly out.
Started on the frame reinforcements for the splice. Manage to get one outside "L" bracket made and welded on. Ford recommends 2" x 1/2" slots spaced 6" apart in this type of reinforcement for extra weld surface but seeing how my frame and reinforcement plate looked like swiss cheese I decided to plug weld all the holes instead still accomplishing the same goal of extra surface to weld for extra strength.
Plate made and fitted to frame
Need room for welds to stay below the radius of the flange. Ford Minimum is 1" from top of flange. Mine is 1-1/4"
Swiss Cheese
Stay 1" from corners when welding to eliminate possible stress risers and weld cracking
Stay off flange radius when welding. NOTE: Reinforcement plate must be flush to frame and flanges, no gaps except at the radius where a gap is required.
Finished reinforcement plate. No more Swiss cheese, Nice and smooth. It is stitch welded every 2" and all excess holes were plug welded. Do not weld these solid. Big mistake is people make a frame too stiff which leads to cracking, it has to be able to flex.
, I'm on about the same parrallel as the Texas panhandle 50 miles from the SC line, was 65F and sunny today....Oh and "U" turns are definatly out.Started on the frame reinforcements for the splice. Manage to get one outside "L" bracket made and welded on. Ford recommends 2" x 1/2" slots spaced 6" apart in this type of reinforcement for extra weld surface but seeing how my frame and reinforcement plate looked like swiss cheese I decided to plug weld all the holes instead still accomplishing the same goal of extra surface to weld for extra strength.
Plate made and fitted to frame
Need room for welds to stay below the radius of the flange. Ford Minimum is 1" from top of flange. Mine is 1-1/4"
Swiss Cheese
Stay 1" from corners when welding to eliminate possible stress risers and weld cracking
Stay off flange radius when welding. NOTE: Reinforcement plate must be flush to frame and flanges, no gaps except at the radius where a gap is required.
Finished reinforcement plate. No more Swiss cheese, Nice and smooth. It is stitch welded every 2" and all excess holes were plug welded. Do not weld these solid. Big mistake is people make a frame too stiff which leads to cracking, it has to be able to flex.
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
Did more running for parts and steel than work today.
Started insulating the sleeper for the Arctic temps up in the Great White North which is my preffered area to roam. Will help with the blistering heat in the deep south as well as deaden outside sound and vibration of the aluminum panels of the sleeper too.
For those that havn't bought mild low carbon steel in a long time.... You're in for sticker shock. This is all $244.66 will get you these days
22' of 3"x1/4" hot roll flat bar - A36 grade - for making new frame flanges on the beavertail cuts
2' of 4"x4"x1/4" square tubing - A500 grade - for the stinger hitch receiver
5' of 4" 5.4lb "C" channel - A572 grade - for mounting the stinger receiver
6' of 4"x3"x1/4" reqtangular tubing - A500 grade - for rear bumpers, tail light mounts, ramp mounts, and start of the beavertail
That's only 182 lbs of steel...... Roughly $1.34 lb and the local shop here doesn't charge for cutting to length either for customers like me who only need small quantities. They have a weld and machine shop so they use up small drops themselves and are pretty good at doing just that.
I asked them why they didn't have it gold plated for me before I picked it up.
Started insulating the sleeper for the Arctic temps up in the Great White North which is my preffered area to roam. Will help with the blistering heat in the deep south as well as deaden outside sound and vibration of the aluminum panels of the sleeper too.
For those that havn't bought mild low carbon steel in a long time.... You're in for sticker shock. This is all $244.66 will get you these days
22' of 3"x1/4" hot roll flat bar - A36 grade - for making new frame flanges on the beavertail cuts
2' of 4"x4"x1/4" square tubing - A500 grade - for the stinger hitch receiver
5' of 4" 5.4lb "C" channel - A572 grade - for mounting the stinger receiver
6' of 4"x3"x1/4" reqtangular tubing - A500 grade - for rear bumpers, tail light mounts, ramp mounts, and start of the beavertail
That's only 182 lbs of steel...... Roughly $1.34 lb and the local shop here doesn't charge for cutting to length either for customers like me who only need small quantities. They have a weld and machine shop so they use up small drops themselves and are pretty good at doing just that.
I asked them why they didn't have it gold plated for me before I picked it up.
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
A couple reasons.
I hate using the spray foam, that stuff goes everywhere you don't want it LOL.
There's a real possibility that I will eventually make the notch under the sleeper larger so I run a trailer tounge under the sleeper for larger trailers or to put multiple trailers on the bed. Batt will be much easier to remove and a lot less work to clean the aluminum frame.
Flamability - that's why I skipped sheets of foam too.
Fumes/smell
I hate using the spray foam, that stuff goes everywhere you don't want it LOL.
There's a real possibility that I will eventually make the notch under the sleeper larger so I run a trailer tounge under the sleeper for larger trailers or to put multiple trailers on the bed. Batt will be much easier to remove and a lot less work to clean the aluminum frame.
Flamability - that's why I skipped sheets of foam too.
Fumes/smell
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
Finally got the frame splice done. Both sides reinforced inside and out
Started to weld the new flanges on the angle cut for the drop frame section. New steel is 1/4" x 3" A36 hot roll steel.
Cut down edge of front corner to match frame radius...... Also tried my hand at a wide "shipyard weave" to lay in some metal for the transition....... Little bit rusty there.
Shape roughed in with grinder
Smoooooooooooooth like it was meant to be.... I like doing metal sculpture
Started to weld the new flanges on the angle cut for the drop frame section. New steel is 1/4" x 3" A36 hot roll steel.
Cut down edge of front corner to match frame radius...... Also tried my hand at a wide "shipyard weave" to lay in some metal for the transition....... Little bit rusty there.
Shape roughed in with grinder
Smoooooooooooooth like it was meant to be.... I like doing metal sculpture
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
Nice weather today.... 73F and raining hard. Have severe thunderstorm warnings, flash flood warnings and a tornado watch. Driveway and entrance to my back yard and shop gate are a little flooded.
Worked on the rear bumpers cutting holes for the oval grommet style tail lights and back up lights. 4 lights in each bumper. 3 stop /turn / tail light and 2 reverse lamps, well beyond the minimum FMSCA requirements. Using this style light because they are well protected from damage playing with ramps or loading something or doing something stupid like backing into something.
Good measurements and layout is crucial for this type of lamp. Make the hole too big and they like to fall out. You want them tight but still easy to install and remove.
A milling machine would sure be nice but I don't have one and am too cheap to hire it out. Drilled 3 7/8" holes at the end of each cutout with a step drill. I like step drills but they really ain't supposed to be used on 1/4" steel.
Step drills sure make a nice clean hole and cut through steel fast. They are pricy but worth every penny.
Cut out holes with a cross cut carbide burr on a die grinder and my 4-1/2" electric grinder
Nice clean finished hole
Perfect fit
Worked on the rear bumpers cutting holes for the oval grommet style tail lights and back up lights. 4 lights in each bumper. 3 stop /turn / tail light and 2 reverse lamps, well beyond the minimum FMSCA requirements. Using this style light because they are well protected from damage playing with ramps or loading something or doing something stupid like backing into something.
Good measurements and layout is crucial for this type of lamp. Make the hole too big and they like to fall out. You want them tight but still easy to install and remove.
A milling machine would sure be nice but I don't have one and am too cheap to hire it out. Drilled 3 7/8" holes at the end of each cutout with a step drill. I like step drills but they really ain't supposed to be used on 1/4" steel.
Step drills sure make a nice clean hole and cut through steel fast. They are pricy but worth every penny.
Cut out holes with a cross cut carbide burr on a die grinder and my 4-1/2" electric grinder
Nice clean finished hole
Perfect fit
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
One shot, one kill Jim. Time is what I have the most of right now.
This is overkill here but it's the way I want it down the road as I eventually turn the truck into a rolling Christmas tree. It's a lot easier to carve out the holes now than after it's installed. Eventually it'll have all LED lights.....the really bright ones with 60 LEDs in them, I want a blind man to be able to see me.
That 3" x 4" x 33-3/4" piece of 1/4" wall tubing is $46.20 x 2ea = $92.40 + 6.75% sales tax = $98.64....... Don't need a Benjamin worth of scrap metal decorating the shop.
By the time I finish carving out the rest of the holes and welding on the end caps (which will also have holes for 2" marker lights), the protective lip around each rear light and the ramp mounts....... I figure I'll have about 30 hrs total in these 2 bumpers.
This is overkill here but it's the way I want it down the road as I eventually turn the truck into a rolling Christmas tree. It's a lot easier to carve out the holes now than after it's installed. Eventually it'll have all LED lights.....the really bright ones with 60 LEDs in them, I want a blind man to be able to see me.
That 3" x 4" x 33-3/4" piece of 1/4" wall tubing is $46.20 x 2ea = $92.40 + 6.75% sales tax = $98.64....... Don't need a Benjamin worth of scrap metal decorating the shop.
By the time I finish carving out the rest of the holes and welding on the end caps (which will also have holes for 2" marker lights), the protective lip around each rear light and the ramp mounts....... I figure I'll have about 30 hrs total in these 2 bumpers.
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
Did some parts shopping today at Northern Tool and walked out a little poorer after getting more welding rod, new welding gloves, an inexpensive brake controller, a 7 pin RV plug for the truck, correct color wiring for a 7 pin plug so there is no guess work if it needs to be repaired later, heat shrink tubing, electrical tape, a couple lights, Norton 1/4" grinding discs, a grade 8 7/8x4-1/2" pin for the stinger receiver and some 1/16" coated cable to make lanyards out of so I don't lose my pins and spring clips in snow, mud, storm drains & gravel when taking them out to set the truck up for loading and unloading.
Finally finished welding and grinding the drop frame section today. Wondered why it was using so much rod and taking so daygum long to weld it until I did the math.
There's nearly 50' of weld bead on this section. Glad that's over with.
New frame flange tacked into place.
New flanges welded up solid inside and out.
Grinding done !!!!!
Finally finished welding and grinding the drop frame section today. Wondered why it was using so much rod and taking so daygum long to weld it until I did the math.
There's nearly 50' of weld bead on this section. Glad that's over with.
New frame flange tacked into place.
New flanges welded up solid inside and out.
Grinding done !!!!!
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
Working on finishing up the rear bumpers/lightbars/ramp holders. This is a slightly complex assembly each made up of 11 pieces of steel so it's time consuming..... ETA to completion is 1 - 2 more days.
Finished cutting out holes for oval lights
This is how it will be set up each side
Making end cap for bumper
Test fit perfect
Pieces are tacked together. The 3/4" schedule 40 pipe is for the pin on ramp mounts. Center is cut down so the ramp slides into place and is easy to line up for the pin. 1" was left at each end of the cut out and a piece of 1/2" schedule 40 pipe is pressed into each end and welded, this pipe will also be used on the ramps. Pin size for the ramps is 1/2" diameter.
Ugggggg!!!! Still have 9 more of these gussets to cut out.
Finished cutting out holes for oval lights
This is how it will be set up each side
Making end cap for bumper
Test fit perfect
Pieces are tacked together. The 3/4" schedule 40 pipe is for the pin on ramp mounts. Center is cut down so the ramp slides into place and is easy to line up for the pin. 1" was left at each end of the cut out and a piece of 1/2" schedule 40 pipe is pressed into each end and welded, this pipe will also be used on the ramps. Pin size for the ramps is 1/2" diameter.
Ugggggg!!!! Still have 9 more of these gussets to cut out.
leftyf
SSG Stumpy-VA Terrorist
In picture #6....what are you using the hamburger press for?
You guys from the 82d really make me mad....throwing this thing together in 15 minutes and still having time to build your mother-in-law a house between getting off work and dinner.
And, I thought I was hot stuff when I drove a nail in straight on the 2d try!
Looks good, man.
You guys from the 82d really make me mad....throwing this thing together in 15 minutes and still having time to build your mother-in-law a house between getting off work and dinner.
And, I thought I was hot stuff when I drove a nail in straight on the 2d try!
Looks good, man.
pmmjarrett
Not just tired..... RETIRED!!!
Hamburger Press
..... What in the wide world of sports are you talking about LOL........ Or should I ask who spiked the punchNoneBTW, Ya don't wanna see me driving nails in wood, it's enough to make a grown man cry....... I make Gilligan look like a cabinet maker.
