no hot water on electric

porthole

Retired
Two days ago we had no hot water, hit the reset buttons and we were back in business.
Today no hot water again. This time the reset button did not solve the issue.

Checked the wires at the breaker and the "red" switch to make sure they were tight.
My rocker switch on the outside has not "rocked" in several years.

Pulled it out and the one terminal was black. The switch is bad. Put a temporary switch in and we have hot water again.

Good excuse for a motorcycle ride up here in the hills in and around Copake New York. Did about 100 miles trying a couple of Radio Shacks and Home Depot. RS no longer carries this style of common panel switch.

I may just bypass it permanently.


So - I would make checking that switch a priority if your heater is several years old and gets lots of use and is not working on electric.

BTW, the reset buttons are high temp cut outs. Set for approximately 180 degrees.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Actually, the OEM thermostats are set for 130 degrees. The other available one is at 140. Replaced the 12V one last year with the 140 model since that was the only one available locally. If they held out to 180 degrees, you'd be trying to sue someone after the water hit the baby.


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porthole

Retired
180 is the thermal overheat cut out switch. They are resettable disconnects under the "reset" black cover. One for 12 volts DC and one 120 volt AC sensor
 
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JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
The ones under the black reset cover are what I'm talking about.


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OK, reread the manual. That part is two function. The thermostat controls normal operation at either 130F or 140F. The ECO shuts it down if the thermostat fails and the water reaches 180F. Methinks, however, that if you ever have to press the reset, you need to change the part out, since the thermostat didn't work.
 
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