I went out to turn on the refrigerator to get some food stored for our rally and the norcold 121x model double door in our landmark would not come on at first and then it did come on with flashing ac or lp depending on the mode selected but will not cool and when I try to turn it off it won't go off unless I turn off the convertor and unplug the rally starts after labor day and the service center is closed until after labor day! Does anyone out there have any ideas on how to get the refrigerator going!
Norcold double door fridge 121x series in 2012 landmark won't work on gas or shore power
- Thread starter TomEgenes
- Start date
boatto5er
Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
Re: EVENT: Heartland Chapter Rally: MT, Red Lodge - 9/7/2017 to 9/10/2017
On some Norcolds, you can take off the outside access panel and see the back of the fridge. There is a black rectangular control box somewhere on there. I think is has a couple of red lights on it. If you run a large magnet over the flat part of the box, it may unstick a relay that has been known to be problematic on the Norcolds. Have been told you can hear the relay click. I have only read about this, but lots of people have reported it working.
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On some Norcolds, you can take off the outside access panel and see the back of the fridge. There is a black rectangular control box somewhere on there. I think is has a couple of red lights on it. If you run a large magnet over the flat part of the box, it may unstick a relay that has been known to be problematic on the Norcolds. Have been told you can hear the relay click. I have only read about this, but lots of people have reported it working.
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Tom Eugenes, the new chapter leader for Montana asked me to post his request for help with his fridge issue. He and my husband, Bill, have been trouble with no success. So far they have checked GFIs, the fuse, etc. Tom is trying to load his fridge for the Montana rally so any suggestions would helpful.
Thanks, Bill and DeAnna Haynes
Thanks, Bill and DeAnna Haynes
Oregon_Camper
Well-known member
What is the battery voltage? I has that "IP" error before, and it was simply a lack of voltage in our stock battery (that was removed the next weekend)
Have you checked the reset button on the breaker on the 12v busbar?
Have you checked the reset button on the breaker on the 12v busbar?
Yes my batteries are reading 13.7 V and I checked the breaker bar in the battery compartment and it wasn't tripped.
Thanks Tom
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Re: EVENT: Heartland Chapter Rally: MT, Red Lodge - 9/7/2017 to 9/10/2017
I'm getting a slow blink once a second on the red LED The DC voltage is only reading 5.4 V but at the battery it is 13.7 V
I tried using a magnet on the relay next to the red LED but heard no click.
What is strange is that it was working fine at the beginning of the summer and we turned it off leaving it plugged in to the shore power and when I went to turn it back on and it would not come on
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I'm getting a slow blink once a second on the red LED The DC voltage is only reading 5.4 V but at the battery it is 13.7 V
I tried using a magnet on the relay next to the red LED but heard no click.
What is strange is that it was working fine at the beginning of the summer and we turned it off leaving it plugged in to the shore power and when I went to turn it back on and it would not come on
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wdk450
Well-known member
Re: EVENT: Heartland Chapter Rally: MT, Red Lodge - 9/7/2017 to 9/10/2017
If you are measuring the 5.4 volts DC at the refrigerator incoming 12 Volts DC connection terminal strip, you MAY have a blown 12 volt DC fuse on the fusepanel, and the LED indicator light for the fuse passes the 5.4 volts you are measuring. When in doubt, don't depend on the blown fuse indicators, but put a NEW fuse into the refrigerator fuse position on the fusepanel.
The refrigerator logic board common to both propane and AC operation MUST have a good source of 12 Volts DC to work. If the trouble with the 12 volts supply can't be found, disconnect the incoming red 12 volts supply wire from the refrigerator terminal strip and run a wire to a good 12 volts DC source. There should be a redundant fuse on the circuit board for the incoming 12 volts DC.
BTW, I had a maddening intermittent fuse blowing problem on this refrigerator 12 volt circuit that also runs the rangetop area lights and fan. Eventually I found that the red supply wire to the refrig was stretched tightly around a corner of the refrigerator rear metal base, rubbing the wire insulation away, and causing an intermittent road shake short circuit to the grounded base of the refrigerator and blowing the fuse for that circuit.
If you are measuring the 5.4 volts DC at the refrigerator incoming 12 Volts DC connection terminal strip, you MAY have a blown 12 volt DC fuse on the fusepanel, and the LED indicator light for the fuse passes the 5.4 volts you are measuring. When in doubt, don't depend on the blown fuse indicators, but put a NEW fuse into the refrigerator fuse position on the fusepanel.
The refrigerator logic board common to both propane and AC operation MUST have a good source of 12 Volts DC to work. If the trouble with the 12 volts supply can't be found, disconnect the incoming red 12 volts supply wire from the refrigerator terminal strip and run a wire to a good 12 volts DC source. There should be a redundant fuse on the circuit board for the incoming 12 volts DC.
BTW, I had a maddening intermittent fuse blowing problem on this refrigerator 12 volt circuit that also runs the rangetop area lights and fan. Eventually I found that the red supply wire to the refrig was stretched tightly around a corner of the refrigerator rear metal base, rubbing the wire insulation away, and causing an intermittent road shake short circuit to the grounded base of the refrigerator and blowing the fuse for that circuit.
Re: EVENT: Heartland Chapter Rally: MT, Red Lodge - 9/7/2017 to 9/10/2017
Thanks
Tom
The coach battery reads 13.7 volts and I changed the fuse still no luck finding another source for 12 volts, i thought I would check to see voltage at the fuse box next.
Thanks
Tom
wdk450
Well-known member
Re: EVENT: Heartland Chapter Rally: MT, Red Lodge - 9/7/2017 to 9/10/2017
I sort of meant just get a long piece of wire, connect that to the battery, and connect the other end to the refrig 12 volt DC terminal strip in place of the original wiring, and test if the refrig works OK now. Then you KNOW if you have a problem with the 12 volt wiring between the fusepanel and the refrigerator.
I think the 4.75 volt reading at the refrigerator is the big clue here. You might also want to check that the ground connection on the 12 volt DC feed (white wire) IS properly connected to ground (battery negative). 4.75 volts won't be enough to open the propane solenoid or cause ignitor sparks; or enough voltage to energize the AC heater relay. let alone allow the logic board to make the proper operating mode decisions.
I sort of meant just get a long piece of wire, connect that to the battery, and connect the other end to the refrig 12 volt DC terminal strip in place of the original wiring, and test if the refrig works OK now. Then you KNOW if you have a problem with the 12 volt wiring between the fusepanel and the refrigerator.
I think the 4.75 volt reading at the refrigerator is the big clue here. You might also want to check that the ground connection on the 12 volt DC feed (white wire) IS properly connected to ground (battery negative). 4.75 volts won't be enough to open the propane solenoid or cause ignitor sparks; or enough voltage to energize the AC heater relay. let alone allow the logic board to make the proper operating mode decisions.
carl.swoyer
Well-known member
Turning the fridge power off then a minute later back on works for me
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