Norcold not cold - will disconnecting thermistor allow unit to run non-stop?

[carl.swoyer]

I'm in Key West and the fridge is a no cold again.
My question is, If discounting the thermistor at the light it will run the unit non-stop.? So will lp provide the best results for the thermistor test


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[carl.swoyer]

I'm in Key West and the fridge is a no cold again.
My question is, If discounting the thermistor at the light it will run the unit non-stop.? So will lp provide the best results for the thermistor test


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Thanks for the input


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[wdk450]

I'm in Key West and the fridge is a no cold again.
My question is, If discounting the thermistor at the light it will run the unit non-stop.? So will lp provide the best results for the thermistor test


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If I am reading the chart on the website linked below, LOW thermistor resistance (short) tells the controller circuitry that the inside of the refrigerator is HOT needing full cooling. Conversely, disconnecting the thermistor (high resistance) would make the controller think that the refrigerator is much too cold and stop the cooling system.

https://thenorcoldguy.com/norcold-t...thermistor-is-bad-thermistor-troubleshooting/

 

[danemayer]

If it's a Norcold 1210, try this:

1. Disconnect thermistor
2. Set mode to AC
3. Set temperature setting to 9
4. Check cooling after 3 hours.

 

[carl.swoyer]

If it's a Norcold 1210, try this:

1. Disconnect thermistor
2. Set mode to AC
3. Set temperature setting to 9
4. Check cooling after 3 hours.

Dane
I tested the thermistor( ice test) and it's bad. However running it on propane no immediate improvement after 3 hours. Just flipped over to AC. We shall see.
It was working perfectly last week.

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[carl.swoyer]

Dane
I tested the thermistor( ice test) and it's bad. However running it on propane no immediate improvement after 3 hours. Just flipped over to AC. We shall see.
It was working perfectly last week.

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Frig temp is 63°


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[danemayer]

Frig temp is 63°


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If there's heat being generated on the back side of the fridge, I think you may have a failed cooling unit. If no heat, a safety lockout may have been triggered.

But since you didn't mention any error codes being displayed, it could be something else - a board failure for example.

 

[carl.swoyer]

If there's heat being generated on the back side of the fridge, I think you may have a failed cooling unit. If no heat, a safety lockout may have been triggered.

But since you didn't mention any error codes being displayed, it could be something else - a board failure for example.

Dane,
Thanks for your input
I didn't see any codes. I'm wondering if there is any way
To look for a code on the control panel .

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[carl.swoyer]

Dane,
Thanks for your input
I didn't see any codes. I'm wondering if there is any way
To look for a code on the control panel .

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The freezer is working


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[carl.swoyer]

The freezer is working


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I figure if the freezer is working as designed and the fridge is not it another no cold failure. This unit is two and a half years old.

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[danemayer]

I figure if the freezer is working as designed and the fridge is not it another no cold failure. This unit is two and a half years old.

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If the freezer is working; i.e. holding a temperature between 0 and 10 (F), and the refrigerator is at 60, it's usually a problem with air intrusion. But I vaguely remember someone having a more serious problem where the freezer was working.

When there's air intrusion, the fins in the refrigerator compartment may be coated with ice from the condensation of the warm air coming in.

Make sure the flap between the doors is actually closing fully. If it sticks, you'll have a warm fridge compartment.

Also check the drain hose. If it's detached, broken, or the end cap is missing, warm air will come in that way.

Check door seals with a dollar bill. There should be a slight drag on the bill if you close the door on it and pull it out.

 

[carl.swoyer]

Interesting update!
We decided to leave Key West and return home.

1. The thermistor test on propane, results in no refrigerator cooling. Freezer was frozen
2. After returning home and having electricity I repeated the thermistor test on ac. This morning 33° in the frig.

I'm not sure but I'm thinking maybe an ammonia blockage that broke loose on the trip home.
I think I will repeat the lp thermistor test again.



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[JohnDar]

Carl, there is a Youtube video on how to electronically test the thermistor in a Norcold fridge. Google/search: testing a rv fridge thermistor. I found it just a moment ago on my phone.


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[danemayer]

Interesting update!
We decided to leave Key West and return home.

1. The thermistor test on propane, results in no refrigerator cooling. Freezer was frozen
2. After returning home and having electricity I repeated the thermistor test on ac. This morning 33° in the frig.

I'm not sure but I'm thinking maybe an ammonia blockage that broke loose on the trip home.
I think I will repeat the lp thermistor test again.



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I think this may have been what happened in that case where I had the vague recollection. Unfortunately, I don't remember if the refrigerator kept working in the long term. Maybe whoever it was who posted will chime in.

 

[carl.swoyer]

Carl, there is a Youtube video on how to electronically test the thermistor in a Norcold fridge. Google/search: testing a rv fridge thermistor. I found it just a moment ago on my phone.


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Thanks John, I'll look for it.
I also found out that sometimes cleaning up all the DC connection's has a positive effect on the propane side. I just started a new new thermistor test on the lp side. It will be interesting.

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[carl.swoyer]

I think this may have been what happened in that case where I had the vague recollection. Unfortunately, I don't remember if the refrigerator kept working in the long term. Maybe whoever it was who posted will chime in.

Dane ,
I recall my original cooling ( factory) unit started failing the same way.
I'm thinking if the system starts working again I'll keep an apartment frig next to the dinner table.

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[carl.swoyer]

This morning 40° after 15 hours. I'm going to clean the burner and check the lp pressure.

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[carl.swoyer]

This morning 40° after 15 hours. I'm going to clean the burner and check the lp pressure.

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Little bit of an update.
I removed the burner assembly and it was full of rust and carbon deposit.
90% of the debris fell out before I was able to get a picture of it. It keeps falling out so I ordered a new one.
Apparently when Lazy Days in FL replaced the cooling unit they left the original burner in.
Hopefully the replacement will provide the heat needed for cooling. Again ten times the debris than shown in the picture.

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[carl.swoyer]

I refused to believe two dealers that my cooling unit was dead. I replaced the circuit board because it was not sensing temperature. I took it to a dealer here in town and they performed an lp pressure Test. It read 10 and as soon as the fridge turned on it drops to 8. Ten to fourteen is required.
They cleaned out the supply line to the fridge and the lp regulator, they also put a cap on the stack. It was never put on during the cooling unit replacement from two and a half years ago. Cooling like a champ! At least for now.
Norcold indicated that the cap wasn't required because it was in a slide, but Register RV didn't agree.

Now today, I pulled out the Onan generator and will be replacing the stator assembly with new brushes and bearing. Onan quoted $2400.00 to do it.

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