Progressive EMS
- Thread starter olcoon
- Start date
My EMS is set at 136, when you first plug in to shore power you will get nothing for 136 seconds. Then you will hear a clunk from the EMS, the clunk is the contacts closing. After that you will have power to the coach. 136 is probably the safest setting.
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choprpilot76
Active Member
So I got it installed today. I wish that task on no man, lol, but with that said I wouldn't pay $300 for install either. I think the hardest part was connecting the EMS output side with the sensors, there just isn't enough room in there for all that going on and then to bend all those short lengths of 6 gauge wire. Anyhow, I did it all correctly and it all works, the only issue is that the 136 second delay doesn't work. I pulled the little time jumper tab out to set it from 15 to 136 seconds but the "clunk" sound kicks in after 15 seconds still. So like I said, it all works, I just don't have the longer delay if I want it. I called tech support and they seems stumped but said it should be in the circuit board program, so they are sending a new one. I did learn, that unfortunately the remote display is to thick to fit in the switch panel in the living room. I'm totally bummed about that. Here is a picture of the finished install and location. Fits great there and is easily accessible. I used 4 feet of wire for a jumper cable.
choprpilot76
Active Member
I bought the second remote display, and put it below, I assume in what you're referring to as the UDC, so I have two. What does UDC stand for?
choprpilot76
Active Member
Ok, well mine is actually just to the left side of the UDC, on the other side of the wall, technically in pass through storage. It is on the wall in the pass through storage, on the back side of the UDC wall. I didn't want to put it in there because that's where all the water routes through, and if the hose from the shore hook-ups bursts then it would spray water all on the remote display, and I figured water and electrical stuff mixing wouldn't be a good thing. I'll take a picture when I'm out there next.
On the backside of the UDC wall as you mention is same area I was talking about. Easy and convenient place to recieve results.
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Looks like a nice installation. I don't know if you did this but when working with the heavy wire it makes it a little easier if you put a loop in the wire just before the connection in the box. Of course that doesn't help much for the leads in the EMS that have the inductive pickup. Also attached a picture of where I mounted my remote display.
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choprpilot76
Active Member
Yeah, that is where I wanted to install my remote display, in the main switch panel, but the depth of my panel isn't very deep. The remote won't clear it enough to close the door. I'll figure it out, I found a temp place for now. Thanks though. I tried to loop it like the factory did, but couldn't. I mad sure I had enough slack and also clamped the wire access holes good.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Nice installation, but might I also suggest you move that transfer switch and converter off of the floor, as well? If there are any plumbing leaks, you don't want them in it. I mounted both my suppressor and converter to the side of the stairwell frame, so they are not under anything with water in it. It also put the converter in a spot where I can access the fuses and the cooling fan isn't sitting in a pile of dust and debris.
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choprpilot76
Active Member
Ok, I need some help here because I am in mass confusion. The label on the power hook up (picture below), translates in my electrically stupid mind, that this can handle both 120 and 240 power input. My brother-in-law is helping me get power ready at my parents house so that when we pull it up there for almost 2 weeks of stay that we can power the whole RV. He is pretty electrically smart and has just in case, he showed it to 3 separate electricians and other RV owners, all who say that yes, based on that label you can plug it into 220 (or 240). With that said, Holman Motors told me when I picked it up and did my walk through to NEVER plug it into 220. Obviously I haven't, but I am confused because that label says otherwise. Would you Jedi Masters please help educate me or clarify this? Thank you.
choprpilot76
Active Member
BTW, the "clunk" happens about 20 seconds after gen start up, no matter the setting, the power doesn't actually start being supplied until 136 seconds AFTER that. It did that on both circuit boards.
danemayer
Well-known member
The transfer switch wait for the generator output to stabilize - about 20 seconds - before it closes the contacts and sends power to the circuit breaker box. In your case, since the EMS is in that path, the 136 second countdown starts after the transfer switch sends power.
The plug at the pedestal in the campground is 240v but your trailer is wired to use 120v. It can do this because a 240v receptacle has 2 power sources, Line 1 and Line 2 and a common wire. If you hook a volt meter across L-1 and L-2 you will get 240v. If you hook a volt meter across L-1 or L-2 and the common wire you will get 120v. Some things in your trailer will feed off of L-1 and some off of L-2. You can buy adapters at Walmart to plug into a 30A service or a 120v receptacle. You just won't be able to run everything at once. Hope that helps.
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danemayer
Well-known member
The 50 amp 4 pin connector that you normally plug into at an RV park is actually a 220V connection. There are 2 hot wires, each carrying 110V, a neutral, and a ground. When the 2 hot wires get to the circuit breaker box, they power separate busses in the breaker box. Some breakers get power from one 110V buss. Others get power from the other 110V buss. So the 220V coming in is split into two separate 110V lines, each capable of delivering 50 Amps.
The place you have to be careful is when you plug into a 30 amp connector. They have 3 wires: 110V hot, neutral, ground and supply 30 amps. Homes have 30 amp connectors for dryers, but they may be wired with 220V and will cause severe damage to the RV because each buss in the circuit breaker box will be supplied with 220V which will fry most of your appliances. It's not uncommon for installers to mistakenly wire a 30 amp RV outlet for 220V. Any new outlet should be checked with a voltmeter to make sure it's right. Never trust anyone's work on a new outlet.
You can read about this in more detail at MyRV.us
choprpilot76, this may be helpful.
http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/50-amp Service.pdf
http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/50-amp Service.pdf
