Project LM 365

[danemayer]

Water pump mystery solved
Last night I was thinking about this and figured out why it was doing the (gerr----gerr----gerr) thing. The one-way check valve was only 6" away from the pump, this was holding all of the head pressure on the other side of the check valve, so there was no volume of pressure pushing back. When the pump would build up press and shut down all of that pressure was being held from coming back and keeping the pump off. When it would turn off there was only 6" of back presser, this was causing the gerr gerr gerr.
So I hope nobody installed there check valve where I did yet !!!!
I will now find a way to install one on the suction side of the pump some day soon.

Jerrod,

I hadn't thought about it before, but perhaps the same problem that allows water to flow backward through the pump and into the fresh tank would allow the pressure on the output side of the pump to discharge back through the pump. As the internal check valve in the pump lets the pressure drop, the pump sensor relaxes and the pump starts again. But it wouldn't have to run very long to build the pressure up again.

We've had the question of external check valve placement come up before, but I don't think we ever reached a conclusive answer. I think we have that now, that the check valve should always be on the input/suction side of the pump.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Ya Dan I believe that's definitely what's happening. My pump is back to it's old ways of cycling about every 20 minutes now like before and I have no leaks to be found. So I'm pretty sure it the internal check valve in the pump letting water/pressure go back through the pump.
I also think when we are on CITY water hookups the "pump off" after it starts bypassing it gets worse as time goes on. The pump never cycles to stop it and this is what's filling my tank.

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[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

OK on to a new Project. Love this one. RV-Lock slam latches
I recently received all of my RV-Lock slam latches for my baggage and entry doors.

One heavy box containing
1- new electric locking entry door latch assembly (wanted all of my latches to be keyed the same) I found this new one to operate a lot faster than the one that I put on last year. I’m told the faster latch is to give you a longer battery life.
3- electric locking slam latch assembly for the basement doors
2- manual locking latch assembly for the basement doors. (So they all match)
4- Key fobs and 2- keys per lock that’s 8- keys

ALL SMILES HERE
Started the Install and the first latch was the curb side electric latch I'm putting in the front (right side) of the basement door. I center drilled out the 4 rivets and removed the old latch and installed the new one. The backing plat and latch sitting in their position lined up with the 4 holes still left a little gap on the bottom corners from the outside of the door. So I re-drilled the 4 holes back about an 1/8" to give me some adjustment. I then sanded off about an 1/8" from the edge of the backing plate with my belt sander, and installed. At the time I was thinking I was going to have to do that to all of them. But as I moved on to the next one it went wright on with no gap easy pasy. The rest of the latches all went on with no problems at all.

As you can see this picture of me drilling out the rivets is the swinging door not the first door on the curb side...

Apparently my hole in that door was cut down a bit lower than the others.

Now on to the striker plate. RV-Lock sends you a deeper striker plate for more security, it has a deeper pocket so the latch will set down into it deeper. In order to install the deeper striker plate, you’ll have to cut out a section of the aluminum channel under the factory plate. I used a large step drill and started 3 holes across the area and then made each one a little bigger until all 3 were as big as I could get them, then cleaned the rest out with my rotary tool. I chose not to use the deeper striker on the manual latches because I will never lock them anyway. NOTE the deeper striker plate on my swinging basement door went right in no special alterations.

Talking to RV-lock about this minor adjustment he said that they make a little trim piece for that issue. He also said that they have made a backing plate with a shallower hump over the latch to address the issue Jim B. had with his. The shallower hump would be better however I’m not having any issues with that at all. Also after seeing my slotted holes on my modified backing plate he’s thinking of doing that to the new backing plates so you would have some adjust ability.

Now with one push of a button all of my basement doors, my Gen door, and my entry door, Lock and unlock.
It’s like that felling you get every time you get to camp and push the level-up button.

J

 

[jbeletti]

Jerrod - nice work on the compartment handles.

With regard to your water pump, I know you need it this weekend, but when you get home, take it out, bench it and take it apart (the front, where the fin is).

Look for debris in the front housing and in the diaphragm. It may just need to be cleaned.

I'm not sure if Aquatec/Remco makes a rebuild kit like ShurFlo does. I wasn't able to find one online. I suggest you give Remco a call on Monday - 800-228-2481

Remco disassembly video

ShurFlo disassembly and rebuild video

 

[danemayer]

One thing I'm wondering with the cargo hatch locks.

It seems useful to have the entry door and cargo hatches all lock/unlock together when the FOB is used.

So when returning at night, if I use the FOB to unlock the entry door, I assume it'll also unlock the cargo doors. Then when I go inside, if I want all doors to lock, I assume I'd have to use the FOB again rather than locking the deadbolt with the interior lever as I've always done.

So I'm wondering if the FOB's signal will penetrate the walls and lock the cargo hatches from inside the coach.

Anyone test this?

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Yes it does lock everything from inside.
What I've been doing is when we get back to the coach I'll push the button which unlocks everything, then open the entry door then push lock on the fob, which locks everything again, then I'll manually unlock the entry door to close it. This is assuming I want to go in and out of the entry door still. If I'm done for the night I'll just go in and push the button.
I believe you can reset the fobs and just program 1 fob to the entry door and 1 fob to the cargo doors but I don't want to carry 2 fobs around.



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[jbeletti]

Dan - I'm doing as Jerrod is - one FOB programmed to all locks. At the end of the night, I usually do a press-and-hold (1 second) and the signal usually makes it to all locks. In the morning, it's unlikely I'll use the FOB to unlock anything as I generally don't carry it around. When I need to access the storage bay for the first time each day, I'll punch in my code on each handle.

Now - when we return from being from the campground with the truck, as I have my keys in-hand, I will hit unlock and hold for 1 second as I step out of the truck. In this manner, all locks will unlock. If evening, it may not be desirable to have my storage bays unlock at the same time as the entrance door. Time will tell. Perhaps at some point, RV Lock will come out with a 2 channel FOB.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Jim as for the fat fingers we talked about.
The 1&2 3&4 5&6 7&8 are all the same buttons. I was trying to push one side or the other to get the 5 or the 6 I think it's one button

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[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Jerrod - nice work on the compartment handles.

With regard to your water pump, I know you need it this weekend, but when you get home, take it out, bench it and take it apart (the front, where the fin is).

Look for debris in the front housing and in the diaphragm. It may just need to be cleaned.

I'm not sure if Aquatec/Remco makes a rebuild kit like ShurFlo does. I wasn't able to find one online. I suggest you give Remco a call on Monday - 800-228-2481

Remco disassembly video

ShurFlo disassembly and rebuild video

Thanks Jim I think I'll do that.

 

[porthole]

I shared your .......... with Andy

This would be a good one to share with Andy and the plant manager.

Wire nuts - for real?

Even worse, my electric brake wires underneath the coach were connected with wire nuts and not sealed or covered. I arrived home from my delivery trip with no nut and only the memory twist of the bare wire keeping my driver side brakes connected.
.

 

[Bones]

This would be a good one to share with Andy and the plant manager.

Wire nuts - for real?

I had wire nuts on mine and I also had burnt up wires inside the axles.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

I think I'll slide under there and replace then with heat shrink butt connectors some day soon.
Added to my list. Thanks

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[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Jerrod - nice work on the compartment handles.

With regard to your water pump, I know you need it this weekend, but when you get home, take it out, bench it and take it apart (the front, where the fin is).

Look for debris in the front housing and in the diaphragm. It may just need to be cleaned.

I'm not sure if Aquatec/Remco makes a rebuild kit like ShurFlo does. I wasn't able to find one online. I suggest you give Remco a call on Monday - 800-228-2481

Remco disassembly video

ShurFlo disassembly and rebuild video

Jim I just called Remco he said my pump has a 2 year warranty and I should call Heartland and have them send me a new one. If I open it up it will void my warranty.
Guess I'll be calling Joshua at Heartland.

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[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

New Remco water pump on its way from Heartland

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[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Update on the talks with Wilson antanna.
He said they have had a high demand from the RV industry lately. As of now there is nothing in the works for a universal wireless antanna booster system. He said there is one for AT&T and T-Mobile out right now. I'm Verizon so I didn't ask him about it.
He was basically the customer service guy, nobody special. So I really didn't get anything accomplished.
If your AT&T or T-Mobile you might want to look into your options.

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[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Just found this for those looking for the torque specs on the level-up jacks

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[kdubinwa]

So what is your take with the Weboost EQO product? Think it would work?

Update on the talks with Wilson antanna.
He said they have had a high demand from the RV industry lately. As of now there is nothing in the works for a universal wireless antanna booster system. He said there is one for AT&T and T-Mobile out right now. I'm Verizon so I didn't ask him about it.
He was basically the customer service guy, nobody special. So I really didn't get anything accomplished.
If your AT&T or T-Mobile you might want to look into your options.

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[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

I don't think it's the best set up for us.
They say 60 second setup... You put the antenna in the window (needs to be facing the Cel tower) then you still need to run a coax cable from that antenna to the booster tower in your coach somewhere. If you are traveling around from park to park you my not have a good window to put it in that faces a tower.
I'm not sure if you need to keep the 2 components far apart from each other or not.
My current 4G booster seems to need about 30' separation from the roof mounted antenna to the inside tower or it will through red light faults.
If you have a 35' or less RV you might have trouble getting enough separation.
I finally have my 4G unit working without ever giving me the red light faults. With the outside antanna mounted on my TV antenna over the front bedroom and Diplexed in using the OTA coax cable to the living room entertainment center and I set the tower behind the TV.
I rambling on my phone so I hope it made some sense.


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[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Jim I blame you !!!!

Going to redo everything I can get to.
I'm in and out of there alot and the plastic fittings are fragile, I don't want to find out the hard way that I broke something in there after its all buttoned up.

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[Bones]

I think I'll slide under there and replace then with heat shrink butt connectors some day soon.
Added to my list. Thanks

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Jerrod,
I was thinking of doing a power strip type setup that way you can disconnect the axles if needed. I took one wire from each axle and ran it to trailer ground right there at the axles.

- - - Updated - - -

Jim I blame you !!!!

Going to redo everything I can get to.
I'm in and out of there alot and the plastic fittings are fragile, I don't want to find out the hard way that I broke something in there after its all buttoned up.

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I want to get myself one of those clamp tools.