"Red and Blue" drains

[Hansel]

I have a Prowler P289 and after having it out this weekend I drained the what I believe are the low point drains, but my question is that it appears the "red" line was the regular water lines, and the "blue" seemed too be the hot water, it wasn't completely hot because the hot water heater had been off for a couple of hours, but it did take a few minutes too drain and the water was warm. My question is does it hurt anything that the "blue" hose is hot??? There isn't anything special about the "red" hose material?? I can live with it, but kinda makes ya think how they could be plumped in wrong

 

[danemayer]

Hi Hansel,

The red and blue hoses are both Pex. Same material just a different color. Normally red is hot and blue is cold.

If your hot water faucets inside are giving you hot water, the color mix up is probably limited to the drains.

 

[Hansel]

Hi Hansel,

The red and blue hoses are both Pex. Same material just a different color. Normally red is hot and blue is cold.

If your hot water faucets inside are giving you hot water, the color mix up is probably limited to the drains.

Thanks for the quick answer, the faucet's inside are correct, just the drains outside.

 

[JohnD]

I was looking all over under our Prowler P292 last night for the fresh water tank drain . . .

I know it is under there somewhere . . . but never did find it.

Normally there is a label on the side of the trailer showing where it is at . . . but no label.

 

[Hansel]

I was looking all over under our Prowler P292 last night for the fresh water tank drain . . .

I know it is under there somewhere . . . but never did find it.

Normally there is a label on the side of the trailer showing where it is at . . . but no label.

None of mine are labeled, but my fresh tank drain is near the wheel's just in front of the axle on the driver side of the camper.

 

[JohnD]

None of mine are labeled, but my fresh tank drain is near the wheel's just in front of the axle on the driver side of the camper.

Cool!

I'll look there tomorrow and see if I can find it.

I know that the hot and cold drains are right there . . .

They come down right on top of the sewer drains, which I find kind of strange.

It would have been nice if the factory had made them both an inch longer so that they would straddle the sewer pipe instead of drain out on to the sewer pipe.

I may try to extend them a little eventually.

 

[Hansel]

Cool!

I'll look there tomorrow and see if I can find it.

I know that the hot and cold drains are right there . . .

They come down right on top of the sewer drains, which I find kind of strange.

It would have been nice if the factory had made them both an inch longer so that they would straddle the sewer pipe instead of drain out on to the sewer pipe.

I may try to extend them a little eventually.

I will take a picture and post it up tomorrow showing ya my set up

 

[JohnD]

I will take a picture and post it up tomorrow showing ya my set up

I'll do the same!

 

[Silverado23]

I have a Prowler P289 and after having it out this weekend I drained the what I believe are the low point drains, but my question is that it appears the "red" line was the regular water lines, and the "blue" seemed too be the hot water, it wasn't completely hot because the hot water heater had been off for a couple of hours, but it did take a few minutes too drain and the water was warm. My question is does it hurt anything that the "blue" hose is hot??? There isn't anything special about the "red" hose material?? I can live with it, but kinda makes ya think how they could be plumped in wrong

Its possible that if you were draining both hot and cold lines at the same time and the water heater had been off for several hours, The hot water in the lines had cooled and the water heater was draining through the cold water lines. In my North Trail, The cold water enters the water heater from the bottom and exits at the top.

If you open a single drain valve (hot or cold) while the lines are pressurized, You should get hot water out the hot line and cold water out the cold line.

 

[JohnDar]

If the drain valves have a "nipple" end, simply attach a short length of vinyl tubing with a clamp to extend them. I do this to extend the fresh water tank drain to run it out from under the trailer. I remove it when done.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Hansel]

Its possible that if you were draining both hot and cold lines at the same time and the water heater had been off for several hours, The hot water in the lines had cooled and the water heater was draining through the cold water lines. In my North Trail, The cold water enters the water heater from the bottom and exits at the top.

If you open a single drain valve (hot or cold) while the lines are pressurized, You should get hot water out the hot line and cold water out the cold line.

That makes sense, I did test this theory while still hooked up at the campsite, the red was hot at that time. So I guess user error.

 

[Hansel]

Here are some pics of what my set up is

 

[JohnDar]

Here are some pics of what my set up is

Almost identical to my 2009 BH3670, except you have better valves, it appears. Easy enough to clamp a length of soft vinyl hose to them and run it so you don't create a lake under the rig. When I'm dewinterizing, I'll place an empty antifreeze container under the low point drains to collect the pink stuff before using air to blow out the lines. When draining through them, open a faucet inside the rig.

 

[Hansel]

Almost identical to my 2009 BH3670, except you have better valves, it appears. Easy enough to clamp a length of soft vinyl hose to them and run it so you don't create a lake under the rig. When I'm dewinterizing, I'll place an empty antifreeze container under the low point drains to collect the pink stuff before using air to blow out the lines. When draining through them, open a faucet inside the rig.

Question, why are you using the pink stuff if you are blowing the lines out anyway?? I blow all my line's for winterizing

 

[JohnDar]

Question, why are you using the pink stuff if you are blowing the lines out anyway?? I blow all my line's for winterizing

Because I live in Michigan and I have to pump AF in for the washing machine.

 

[justafordguy]

Cool!

I'll look there tomorrow and see if I can find it.

I know that the hot and cold drains are right there . . .

They come down right on top of the sewer drains, which I find kind of strange.

It would have been nice if the factory had made them both an inch longer so that they would straddle the sewer pipe instead of drain out on to the sewer pipe.

I may try to extend them a little eventually.

I added a short piece of PEX and a waterhose fitting to the drains on mine. This way I can hook a water hose up to them to get hot or cold water.

 

[JohnDar]

This is what may happen if you don't properly winterize a combo washer/dryer that is stored in freezing climates. It was not installed with a drain pan and I was alerted to the leak by water dripping off the king pin, along with wet carpet in the closet. Got it repaired (a DIY project) with a new water distributor assembly and installed a drain pan for it.

Adding antifreeze after blowing out the lines is cheap insurance.

 

[JohnD]

I thought I had posted these earlier . . . but for some reason they didn't post.

Found the fresh water tank drain between the tires on the drivers side (first shot), second shot the low point drains.

I'm amazed at how rusty the under side of this trailer is, considering it was just born five months ago (January 26, 2015), not too mention that the coroplast feels dry rotted and very brittle!

 

[Bob&Patty]

No one ever washed all the salt off when it was delivered to your dealer. Looks/sounds like a dealer problem to me. I don't think salted roads have any effect on plastic.

 

[jmgratz]

Just looking at the springs in the photo. They look flatten to me. Could be wrong. Maybe someone else could give some input.