Refrigerator fan motors

[7T7]

My 2 cooling motors on my refrigerator are not working. Where is the best place to get a couple of them. They are ADDA model ad0912ub-a71gp. Thanks in advance. It is a domestic rm1350mimx

 

[Gary521]

If both of your fans are not working, perhaps its the thermostat that controls the fans?

 

[rhodies1]

I would take a hair dryer and heat up the thermostat control which is attached to the fins on the back of the fridge to see if it will start the fans.If heated and your fans do not come in then I would replace the thermostat.Not often both fans would go bad at once.

 

[RetiredUSPS69]

You can short across the terminals on snap switches with any wire or paper clip. Yes they are also called Snap Switches !!! It should only be 12 volts. Or use a volt meter.The fans are easy to get many online sellers or they are basically computer fans.Also check wires from fans, on our new trailer the wires were left hanging and never hooked up. I purchased a few switches online fron china for about $ 1.00 each. Google the temp setting not part number and it will show up.

 

[RetiredUSPS69]

My mistake it is 120 volt Refrig.you can still short across terminal on Snap Switch or use a volt meter. You should get power to at least one side. I,m not sure if there is a inline fuse or not.

 

[7T7]

My mistake it is 120 volt Refrig.you can still short across terminal on Snap Switch or use a volt meter. You should get power to at least one side. I,m not sure if there is a inline fuse or not.

I removed both fans and hooked them straight up to 12volts and neither one worked. I assume that would tell me they are both bad but I am no expert on electrical, is this telling me they are both bad.

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I removed both fans and hooked them straight up to 12volts and neither one worked. I assume that would tell me they are both bad but I am no expert on electrical, is this telling me they are both bad.

I also used a test light and it showed that the wires were getting power but fans were not working. I have been having trouble with the refrigerator since we bought it used a year ago. We have had it at a so- called repair shop and the did absolutely nothing to it.

 

[cookie]

If your fans are 80mm, about 3", then I suggest, if you have room, that you upgrade to the 120mm, about 5", fans.
They can be found at a computer store or online for under $10.

Peace
Dave

 

[wdk450]

RVCoolingunitwarehouse.com has a full webpage of additional fans etc. to improve the performance of your ammonia adsorption RV refrigerator.

They also sell their stuff on E-Bay.

Here is a link: https://rvcoolingunit.com/-Improve-your-Cooling-Performance-items-C320215.aspx?sid=298

 

[RetiredUSPS69]

Ok they seem to be 12 volt 3 5/8 x 3 5/8 Dometric # 3851183016. NOT CHEAP About $100.00 each. I replaced the 1 fan in ours with two 120 mm X 120mm computer fans. Like other posters said you can get them on ebay search 12volt 3 5/8 x 3 5/8 fan or 120 mm fans. Should be able to get them for less than $20.00. delivered. Hope this helps you out

 

[RetiredUSPS69]

Seems funny both would burn out at the same time !! I would check to see if your only getting 12 volts supplied.Could be someone hooked them up to 120 volt by accident Mine picks up 12 volt off a nylon busbar on the bottom then goes up to the snap switch then to fan. Some of the things I found on the trailer were not attached correctly or not at all.And it was brand New not used. OHM VOLT METER and a 12 Volt test light a must to have!! And a bunch of spare fuses

 

[7T7]

Thank you for all the information. I bought 2 5" fans and installed them they both worked when I plugged them in. I hope that fixes my problem.

 

[7T7]

That didn't seem to fix the problem the refrigerator was at 44* at 3:00 when I installed the fans now it is only at 42*. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

 

[wdk450]

. . . . . We have had it at a so- called repair shop and the did absolutely nothing to it. . . . .

I hope you didn't have to pay them anything.

Any competent repair shop on RV ammonia adsorption refrigerators should have the refrigerator WORKING and measurablely correctly cold in both compartments when you pick it up. They should have supplied it with 12 volt DC power for the logic and control circuitry, and at least 120 volts AC for the cooling boiler heaters. Propane hookup could be problematic and dangerous to do in a shop.

Have you tried the basic test of disconnecting the cold sensing thermistor and running the box on AC power cooling for 24 hours to see how it does on maximum cooling request? Also see the basic cooling unit functional test on step 27, page D6-10 of the following document where you compare the temperatures going into the boiler and at the adsorber to get an idea of how the internal gases/liquids are flowing in the cooling unit: https://manuals.heartlandowners.org...metic/dometic refrigerator-service-manual.pdf

This specific test is generic for ammonia adsorption RV refrigerators so it doesn't matter if the brand/model on the document do not match yours.

 

[7T7]

No sir I have not tried that. I have talked to a few repair places and basically all the say is that it is a bad design with the refrigerator in the slide out. I will check the things you suggested to see if I can get it figured out. Thank you.

 

[Gary521]

Yes, the fridge in the slide does not vent the hot air behind the fridge very well. Those two fans that you have are pretty small. There are some youtube videos out there that show how to add additional fans to improve the air flow. I added three fans ( two at the top blowing out and one at the bottom blowing up ) This improved the performance of the unit a whole bunch. I also added insulation and metallized plumbing tape to help route the air at the top out the top vent. Also, sometimes the baffle at the top vent is misplaced inhibiting air flow. I have not read all the posts here so maybe somebody suggested this but also check your thermistor or replace it.

 

[cookie]

Thank you for all the information. I bought 2 5" fans and installed them they both worked when I plugged them in. I hope that fixes my problem.

Those fans will not provide the much needed airflow.
It would be a good idea to add more fans or get bigger ones.

Peace
Dave

 

[RetiredUSPS69]

I donn,t know if you have the service manual this is a site that has it in PDF. Maybe this will help Also is there any bafflle mounted ?? Is this in a slider ??
[h=3]Rm1350 Diagnostic Service Manual - Bryant RV Services[/h]

 

[NWILSON]

When testing the temp, do you have anything in the fridge for it to cool? You will get a much better idea of it's performance if you put several cans of soda or bottles or water in it or really anything that it can work to cool.

 

[wdk450]

No sir I have not tried that. I have talked to a few repair places and basically all the say is that it is a bad design with the refrigerator in the slide out. I will check the things you suggested to see if I can get it figured out. Thank you.

Yes, it is a bad design to put an ammonia RV refrigerator in a slide, but tens of thousands of Rv like this are out there. Right now i am in 108 degree heat, the add-on digital readout says 2.8 degrees C (about 37 degrees F), and the inside hanging bimetallic dial refrigerator thermometer says 20 degrees. There is frozen condensation droplets at the bottom left of the inside refrigerator cooling fins. I do find that my refrig cools better on propane heat on these very hot days.

I drew up a diagram of venting heat flow and an added baffle which is in our owners forum library. Go to the "Tools" tab, then the "Manuals" submenu, the appliances submenu, refrigerators and then your brand (Dometic) to get a listing of the manuals there.

Here is a link to that venting heat diagram. Please note that (at least with my refrig) the top of the condenser fins sit HIGHER than the heat outlet venting slots. That doesn't make for good venting of the hot heat exchange air to the outside. The ideal is the way a refrig is installed in a motorhome - with a straight vertical chimney vent to the roof for the venting air.
https://manuals.heartlandowners.org.../Refrigerator in Slide Baffle System Mod..pdf

 

[danemayer]

I have talked to a few repair places and basically all the say is that it is a bad design with the refrigerator in the slide out.

Maybe you heard that from a dealer tech. If one said that to me, I would ask the sales manager why the dealership sells so many coaches with a bad design.

Venting is certainly much easier if the refrigerator is not in a slide out, but if everything is working correctly, the slide out placement does work. IMO, it would be more helpful if the repair place just fixed it.