musicman
Active Member
I will try to add the picture once again....Sorry for any of you who could not see the picture. Here goes another try.....View attachment 9127
Refrigerator Question
- Thread starter musicman
- Start date
Recovered from 25-May-2010
Recovered
Steve,
Your attachment was fixed in your original post #36.
We are still trying to figure out why this error occurs. Nothing done wrong in your end. It's the attachment manager that is being difficult.
Jim
Your attachment was fixed in your original post #36.
We are still trying to figure out why this error occurs. Nothing done wrong in your end. It's the attachment manager that is being difficult.
Jim
DougAndJudy
Well-known member
I just did a similar thing. I used a cardboard box that folded up to about the size of the baffle that musicman has. I punched a couple of holes in each side and used cable ties to attach the baffle across the vent opening, leaving about 4 inches open at the top. I looped the ties through the holes in the small fixed side vents.
I've got to wait for some more hot weather to see if it helps. I'll post results then.
Attachments
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lcdrdean
Active Member
Could you try adding picture again? The link doesn't appear to be working and I have the same fridge issue that on my 3670.
wesley1963
Wes
We've been having the problem with rising temps for the last 10 days. A week ago an rv service ran the diagnostics and conferred with Dometic. It was agreed that the thermister was bad so it was replaced a couple days later. That did not help the problem. After checking out the system again, the tech spoke with Dometic in my presence and Dometic said that the whole cooling system had to be replaced, however, since there is a design flaw, it would only be replaced if a baffle and insulation at the top of the refrigerator were installed. The baffle is nothing more than a small sheet of stainless steel. It cost $101 and was approved by Dometic. The cooling system is $1000 plus $400 to install. Dometic is picking up the tab for all but the $101. I'll report back when the pieces are installed sometime late next week.
Guess we'll need another cooler for beverages...
Guess we'll need another cooler for beverages...
happy_camper
Member
Wesley, is there a chance us reverse engineers could get size/thickness info on the approved baffle? It would be much appreciated.
DougAndJudy
Well-known member
Our cardboard baffle turned out to be somewhat inadequate. Refrigerator temps reached near 50 degrees on a 90+ degree day. And a little inconvenient for inspecting the upper vent area. So I re-engineered the baffle concept. Went to Home Depot and purchased:
1 - 24" x 48" x 1" rigid foam insulation sheet (styrofoam)
1 - 100 count 8" cable ties
1 - 24" x 48" x 2" fiberglass insulation (utility piece, like for wrapping water pipes, etc.)
1 - spst switch
1 - 17' wire 14 ga
Cost - less than $20
To keep the vent space accessible, I cut the foam insulation to the width of the vent cover and a height that covers back of the vent cover, less the opening of the top row of openings. I poked holes in the insulation to cable-tie it to the back of the vent cover - leaving the top row of openings clear. The 1" foam leaves about a 1/2" gap from the cooling fins, so most of the fan air is used for cooling.
I cut 2 pieces of the foam to cover all but the top opening on each side of the vent opening. I cable-tied these over the openings.
I cut the remainder of the foam to fit in the area above the refrigerator and the slide. Our Landmark had a thin wooden baffle fastened to the vent frame that diverts air out the vent opening. I removed the baffle and stuffed the foam insulation above the refrigerator then replaced the baffle, so now there's no air space above the refigerator.
While I was up in the upper vent opening, I spliced 2 lengths of the 14 ga wire to the wires connected to the thermostat that controls the fan. The lengths of wire were long enough to reach the lower vent opening. I attached the switch to the piece of thin metal that also contains the refrigerator wire diagram. I attached the wires from the upper vent to the switch. That gives me the ability to conveniently bypass the thermostat and turn the fans on full-time when the days get really warm.
Back at the top vent, I used the utility fiberglass insulation to extend the existing fiberglass insulation that's on the side of the refrigerator all the way to the outer wall of the slide. With the foam and fiberglass in place, the cooling air from the fans is directed only across the fins and out the top row of vent openings. There's no place for hot air to accummulate around the back of the refrigerator.
We have had several hot days since I made these mods and the refrigerator temps have stayed at or below 40 degrees, with mostly 34-37 degrees at a #4 setting on the refrigerator. I have only had to switch the fans on full time a couple of days when the outside temps were above 90. Generally the thermostat has been adequate for controlling the fans.
I can post pictures if anyone is interested.
1 - 24" x 48" x 1" rigid foam insulation sheet (styrofoam)
1 - 100 count 8" cable ties
1 - 24" x 48" x 2" fiberglass insulation (utility piece, like for wrapping water pipes, etc.)
1 - spst switch
1 - 17' wire 14 ga
Cost - less than $20
To keep the vent space accessible, I cut the foam insulation to the width of the vent cover and a height that covers back of the vent cover, less the opening of the top row of openings. I poked holes in the insulation to cable-tie it to the back of the vent cover - leaving the top row of openings clear. The 1" foam leaves about a 1/2" gap from the cooling fins, so most of the fan air is used for cooling.
I cut 2 pieces of the foam to cover all but the top opening on each side of the vent opening. I cable-tied these over the openings.
I cut the remainder of the foam to fit in the area above the refrigerator and the slide. Our Landmark had a thin wooden baffle fastened to the vent frame that diverts air out the vent opening. I removed the baffle and stuffed the foam insulation above the refrigerator then replaced the baffle, so now there's no air space above the refigerator.
While I was up in the upper vent opening, I spliced 2 lengths of the 14 ga wire to the wires connected to the thermostat that controls the fan. The lengths of wire were long enough to reach the lower vent opening. I attached the switch to the piece of thin metal that also contains the refrigerator wire diagram. I attached the wires from the upper vent to the switch. That gives me the ability to conveniently bypass the thermostat and turn the fans on full-time when the days get really warm.
Back at the top vent, I used the utility fiberglass insulation to extend the existing fiberglass insulation that's on the side of the refrigerator all the way to the outer wall of the slide. With the foam and fiberglass in place, the cooling air from the fans is directed only across the fins and out the top row of vent openings. There's no place for hot air to accummulate around the back of the refrigerator.
We have had several hot days since I made these mods and the refrigerator temps have stayed at or below 40 degrees, with mostly 34-37 degrees at a #4 setting on the refrigerator. I have only had to switch the fans on full time a couple of days when the outside temps were above 90. Generally the thermostat has been adequate for controlling the fans.
I can post pictures if anyone is interested.
wdk450
Well-known member
Gang:
Here is something to think about in choosing a material to make baffles. The refrigerator uses an open propane flame in gas mode. Cardboard isn't too hard to ignite, although it is handy in that it folds up and can be unfolded in tight spaces. If it DOES ignite, it makes a great fire starter material. Dense wood still burns, but is much less easy to ignite. Metal (except magnesium) doesn't burn at normal fire temperatures.
These propane refrigerators DO have a history of causing fires, although recent improvements have made this pretty rare.
Here is something to think about in choosing a material to make baffles. The refrigerator uses an open propane flame in gas mode. Cardboard isn't too hard to ignite, although it is handy in that it folds up and can be unfolded in tight spaces. If it DOES ignite, it makes a great fire starter material. Dense wood still burns, but is much less easy to ignite. Metal (except magnesium) doesn't burn at normal fire temperatures.
These propane refrigerators DO have a history of causing fires, although recent improvements have made this pretty rare.
wesley1963
Wes
The "baffle" is a stainless steel sheet that is 16 gauge (.060") thick x 12" wide x 30" long. Right now it is just duct taped in, next week when the refer comes out the baffle will be anchored in place. I'll take pics of the process and post them here.
We took delivery on our 2011 Bighorn 3670 on April 22, 2010 and it has been in shop for the same fridge problem as this. The dealer just installed a brand new 4 day Dometic and guess what?? It's doing the same thing. They are saying it is an install problem and are discussing it with the Production Manager. They are trying to resolve the problem but shouldn't they have found the problem before putting them on the sales line. Kinda frustrating. Now I'm being told they cabinet drawer needs to be removed from under fridge and fridge lowered so it will vent better. Wife doesn't want to get on hands and knees to get something off of bottom shelf. Does anyone else have the cabinet drawer under fridge making it almost too high to vent properly? This is a 4 door side-by-side unit in the slide-out. seems that if this drawer was not supposed to be there they would have encountered problems before now. HELP!!!
K
karykatz
Guest
Thank you for your input. I am getting with our production and engineering to look at this.
Can anyone answer this question. While at dealer today waiting on them to compete the baffle on the rear of my fridge, I opened the door to see what the temp on fridge was. It was blinking 38 degrees and LP. Red light on upper left was lit up indicating auto mode. Light was alternating between temp reading and LP. Just blinking back and forth. What could this be? Thanks in advance. Steve A. Dagro
DougAndJudy
Well-known member
Did the dealer have the refrigerator unplugged while they did the baffle work? That might cause what you saw.
Ours is exactly like yours or close anyway. Seems to work very well with the two vent fans that came installed. The drawer is handy and we like the height. The ice maker holds way more than we ever need but not complaining about that. Really nice fridge for sure.
Dealer made all mods to my 14CF fridge in my 2011 3670.(insulation, baffle 2 additional fans) Dealer said it has been holding at 33-35 for 3 days in Louisiana heat. Picked it up yesterday and unit was off!!. Kinda *****@ me off. Got it home and can't get temp to drop. Documented 10 hrs. Started at 49 when I turned it on. Went up to 55 now is at 54. Only thing I can figure is possibly voltage difference. Unplugged fridge and checked plug for voltage and meter read 109.6v. Checked a few others around house and it read 1110-113. Also running 50A cord to 30/15A adapter. Could these things be affecting cooling capabilities? Been having RV since 4/22 and been in shop nearly half the time. I love the BH but my patience and nerves are running thin. Some advice PLEASE. Steve A. Dagro
ChopperBill
Well-known member
We have a 3610 and the fridge stays at 32 set on 5. Opening and closing it and putting in warmer items can make it crawl to 38-40 then it takes a couple of hours to cool down. We are at 9000 feet and it seldom gets above 80-85. Seems our upper grill my be higher than some. If I remember right I have to look down the vent to see the fans and most of the fridge. We have the bottom drawer so the fridge sits up higher. Havent gone up to the trailer in a couple of weeks so I am knocking on wood that the unit is still cooling good.
