RV Lock v. 3
- Thread starter klindgren
- Start date
travelin2
Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
We like ours. $99, free shipping 2015 Black Friday sales event!!!
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Bones
Well-known member
Your welcome. I bough this one for my second door.
- - - Updated - - -
It was a sale from the groundhog since he predicted an early spring
Shortest Straw
Caught In A Mosh
I don't even trust the local weather people much less a rodent but I took advantage and bought one anyway.
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Sent using my PU-36 Explosive Space Modulator
Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
Nice, you're going to love it if you don't already have it.
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Bones
Well-known member
I have V4 on the front door but I have only been able to use it a couple times. When I saw the sale I bought the V3 one and they matched my key. I now have the doors keyed alike. Looking forward to installing it.
boatto5er
Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
If I recall, some doors had issues with aligning with the plunger on the lock. Loosening the screws on the new lock probably allowed enough slack on the plunger to fit into the casing.
travelin2
Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
Called RVLock today. I bought and installed the 3.0 version last December after purchasing it during their Black Friday event. The lock has always worked sporadically whether using the keypad or fob.
Well last weekend at the rally it pretty much quit. It only worked after you slammed the door shut so I figured there was a loose connection or circuit.
Today I called RVLock. After finally getting my point and dissatisfaction across to the young fellow that answered, RVLock is sending me a replacement circuit board.
Hopefully that is the resolution. Will post results when I receive and install the replacement.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well last weekend at the rally it pretty much quit. It only worked after you slammed the door shut so I figured there was a loose connection or circuit.
Today I called RVLock. After finally getting my point and dissatisfaction across to the young fellow that answered, RVLock is sending me a replacement circuit board.
Hopefully that is the resolution. Will post results when I receive and install the replacement.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
RVLockSupport
Active Member
Great, I am happy that we were able to get you taken care of with the new circuit board. That should replace everything that is electronics in the handle and should fix any issue that you are having. Thank you also for your patience in explaining your issue to us today, Friday's are our busiest days... Bones, if you did not get taken care of on your issue, please give us a call and ask for Dave, he will make sure you are up and running. We have experience a bit if a growth spurt and some pains that come with. We always want to make sure that our Heartland members are taken care of. Any questions, call or email us right from our website.
www.rvlock.com
Thank you and travel safe...
www.rvlock.com
Thank you and travel safe...
JWalker
Northeast Region Director-Retired
First thing you need to do is remember your code.....lol. That is step #1.
Bones
Well-known member
I think step one should be what code did I program into the key pad.
Did I forget it again. Ha
Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
I think I'll post this on this thread too. I posted this last week on "Project LM 365" when I finished the install.
OK on to a new Project. Love this one. RV-Lock slam latches
I recently received all of my RV-Lock slam latches for my baggage and entry doors.
One heavy box containing
1- new electric locking entry door latch assembly (wanted all of my latches to be keyed the same) I found this new one to operate a lot faster than the one that I put on last year. I’m told the faster latch is to give you a longer battery life.
3- electric locking slam latch assembly for the basement doors
2- manual locking latch assembly for the basement doors. (So they all match)
4- Key fobs and 2- keys per lock that’s 8- keys
ALL SMILES HERE
Started the Install and the first latch was the curb side electric latch I'm putting in the front (right side) of the basement door. I center drilled out the 4 rivets and removed the old latch and installed the new one. The backing plat and latch sitting in their position lined up with the 4 holes still left a little gap on the bottom corners from the outside of the door. So I re-drilled the 4 holes back about an 1/8" to give me some adjustment. I then sanded off about an 1/8" from the edge of the backing plate with my belt sander, and installed. At the time I was thinking I was going to have to do that to all of them. But as I moved on to the next one it went wright on with no gap easy pasy. The rest of the latches all went on with no problems at all.
As you can see this picture of me drilling out the rivets is the swinging door not the first door on the curb side...
Apparently my hole in that door was cut down a bit lower than the others. <br />
Now on to the striker plate. RV-Lock sends you a deeper striker plate for more security, it has a deeper pocket so the latch will set down into it deeper. In order to install the deeper striker plate, you’ll have to cut out a section of the aluminum channel under the factory plate. I used a large step drill and started 3 holes across the area and then made each one a little bigger until all 3 were as big as I could get them, then cleaned the rest out with my rotary tool. I chose not to use the deeper striker on the manual latches because I will never lock them anyway. NOTE the deeper striker plate on my swinging basement door went right in no special alterations.
Talking to RV-lock about this minor adjustment he said that they make a little trim piece for that issue. He also said that they have made a backing plate with a shallower hump over the latch to address the issue Jim B. had with his. The shallower hump would be better however I’m not having any issues with that at all. Also after seeing my slotted holes on my modified backing plate he’s thinking of doing that to the new backing plates so you would have some adjust ability.
<br />
<br />
<br />
Now with one push of a button all of my basement doors, my Gen door, and my entry door, Lock and unlock.
It’s like that felling you get every time you get to camp and push the level-up button.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
OK on to a new Project. Love this one. RV-Lock slam latches
I recently received all of my RV-Lock slam latches for my baggage and entry doors.
One heavy box containing
1- new electric locking entry door latch assembly (wanted all of my latches to be keyed the same) I found this new one to operate a lot faster than the one that I put on last year. I’m told the faster latch is to give you a longer battery life.
3- electric locking slam latch assembly for the basement doors
2- manual locking latch assembly for the basement doors. (So they all match)
4- Key fobs and 2- keys per lock that’s 8- keys
ALL SMILES HERE
Started the Install and the first latch was the curb side electric latch I'm putting in the front (right side) of the basement door. I center drilled out the 4 rivets and removed the old latch and installed the new one. The backing plat and latch sitting in their position lined up with the 4 holes still left a little gap on the bottom corners from the outside of the door. So I re-drilled the 4 holes back about an 1/8" to give me some adjustment. I then sanded off about an 1/8" from the edge of the backing plate with my belt sander, and installed. At the time I was thinking I was going to have to do that to all of them. But as I moved on to the next one it went wright on with no gap easy pasy. The rest of the latches all went on with no problems at all.
As you can see this picture of me drilling out the rivets is the swinging door not the first door on the curb side...
Apparently my hole in that door was cut down a bit lower than the others. <br />
Now on to the striker plate. RV-Lock sends you a deeper striker plate for more security, it has a deeper pocket so the latch will set down into it deeper. In order to install the deeper striker plate, you’ll have to cut out a section of the aluminum channel under the factory plate. I used a large step drill and started 3 holes across the area and then made each one a little bigger until all 3 were as big as I could get them, then cleaned the rest out with my rotary tool. I chose not to use the deeper striker on the manual latches because I will never lock them anyway. NOTE the deeper striker plate on my swinging basement door went right in no special alterations.
Talking to RV-lock about this minor adjustment he said that they make a little trim piece for that issue. He also said that they have made a backing plate with a shallower hump over the latch to address the issue Jim B. had with his. The shallower hump would be better however I’m not having any issues with that at all. Also after seeing my slotted holes on my modified backing plate he’s thinking of doing that to the new backing plates so you would have some adjust ability.
<br />
<br />
Now with one push of a button all of my basement doors, my Gen door, and my entry door, Lock and unlock.
It’s like that felling you get every time you get to camp and push the level-up button.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
That was a copy and paste from my phone so I'll fix it when I get to the laptop.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
