Satellite Connections in a Big Horn 3055RL

[RVFun4Us]

I have read the many inputs from Big Horn owners about connecting their DirecTV satellite hookup into their rigs. Yet this information is not helping me make my initial hookups on my 3055RL. In the outside control center, their are four hookups at the top from left to right: Telephone, Satellite, Cable, Satellite. Most of you indicate that the right satellite connection goes to the living area but this is with different rigs. I have tested the connection at home and cannot get a signal going through the right satellite hookup but can when I take the cable through the slideout direct to the back of my satellite receiver. I have switched out cables inside in case one of them was bad to no avail. I have also tried the satellite connection on the left (outside) just in case but that also didn't work. It seems that the cable from the outside control center does not have continuity to the living area. All I want is the ability to get my living room TV to bring in satellite. I shouldn't have to go through the slide area anymore. I forgot to mention that I am using the HDMI hookups on both the satellite receiver and the TV. Again, it works direct through the slides but not through the rig's connections. Any ideas what I can do to make this all work?

 

[vangoes]

Bob,
I had the same issue with my satelite cable. Check for continuity between the core wire and the braided shield wire (there should not be any). My problem was when the connectors where installed on the cable behind the docking station a strand of the braided shield was wrapped around the core wire. I removed the connector and reinstalled it and all is good now.

 

[jbeletti]

Hi Sheri and Bob,

I'd say that it sounds like you have tried all the connections and it is now time to replace a wire. You may work with your dealer to get this done under warranty or do it yourself if you are so inclined.

If it were me doing this, I would also run or pay to have run, a second/extra cable to the entertainment slide. With this extra wire, you have some extra capabilities down the road should you need them. For example, you can use it to feed your DVD, VCR, Sat Receiver etc. to the UDC and from there to other parts of the trailer.

In my last coach, I added a $25 A/V switcher and connected all my sources to it (VCR, DVD, SAT, iPOD etc). Then I added a $25 RF modulator to the output of the switcher and sent any of these sources all over the coach.

Best of luck,

Jim

 

[sidney dreyfus]

Satellite hookup

I have a short jumper that connects the two satellite connectors in the docking station. The reason being, the kingdome cable goes to one connector in the docking station, and the jumper allows the signal to go to the living area tv. Hope this might help.

 

[ChopperBill]

An on going problem. Oh how easy it would be for the factory OR the dealer to check the continuity of the cable ends. It takes literary seconds. I am sure thousands of warranty dollars could be better spent.

 

[RVFun4Us]

Van and Carole: Took off the connector as you mentioned, cleared out the braided wire and reinstalled. No luck.

Jim: Thanks for the suggestions. Running a new wire is probably the solution and I would do it except I don't know how to get the wire through all the openings from the UDC to the entertainment center plus in looking behind the UDC, the two satellite connections, the cable connection and the phone connection are all tied together with cable ties as far as I can see. How would you run a new wire through a finished coach - suggestions?

Sidney: I don't have a dish on top of my rig. I run satellite through a tripod. Gives me more flexibility when trying to find a signal.

retired4fun: I agree wholeheartedly. It seems a few simple tests by either Heartland or the dealer would insure that the connections are valid. I was really looking forward to using the UDC connections on our first trip out in two days but just will not have time to work on it before we leave. In reading other Heartland owners input, it sounds like this may be a common problem that maybe Heartland should address.

 

[ziggy]

Sheri,
I know it won't help for this trip, but we had the same kind of problem. River City knows this is a common problem and fixed it for us in no time. You might try calling them and maybe they can help over the phone so you don't have to haul it back over there right away. In the mean time, be sure to keep a list of all the little and not so little problems that pop up so you can have them take care of it all at once.

Enjoy your trip and be safe,
Kristy

 

[jbeletti]

Sheri and Bob,

Behind the UDC, I believe is open access to the underbelly area. That is where you will want to run a new coaxial cable. Looks like you'll need:

• - About 40 feet of RG-6 coax. Get 50 feet just in case (100' of you are running two cables)
• - 2 RG-6 connectors (4 if you are running 2 cables)
• - 1 F-81 splice (long if you can find them) with nut/washer (2 of you are running 2 cables)
• - Tie-wraps
• - Coax strip tool
• - RG-6 connector crimper or compression tool (depending on the connectors you get)
• - Fish tape or stiff (#6 copper) wire with a small flattened loop bent in the end
• - Flashlight
• - Drill, socket (for self-tappers) and drill adapter for socket
• - 1/2" wood drill bit (for slide room penetration)
• - 3/8" wood drill bit (for F-81 to mount into wall plates)
• - Black silicone rubber (GE RTV-108) or other suitable exterior grade caulking
• - Optional: Bright spray paint for end of fish tape (paint the last 2 feet of it the day before)

Try Radio Shack or any of the building centers for all of the materials

Here's how I think I would tackle this with your floor plan. This is not an official sanctioned method. Just what I would do.

1. Remove the bulkhead wall so you have access to behind the UDC. And can get back in there.
2. The AC, DC and Entertainment (coax, speakers etc.) wires come into your Entertainment slide through the floor of the slide room. Then across the outside bottom of the slide room floor through the wire loom called a flex-guard, then into the underbelly on the DS (door side). The DC and Entertainment wiring is typically inside black flexible split-loom. Remove the self-tapping screws with fender washers along the DS of the frame that holds the Coruplast (corrugated black plastic outer underbelly material). Remove them from the point where the wires enter the underbelly at the slide to a point that is about even with the UDC.
3. Spray paint the last couple feet of a fish tape with a very bright colored paint and allow to dry. On the DS, across from the UDC, pull down the Coruplast and try to get your hand above it and the fiberglass insulation. Insert the fish tape above the insulation and push it in and across the width of the trailer.
4. Unwind/untangle and stretch out the new coax on the ground on the ODS (off-door-side of the trailer. Strip 3" of outer jacket and white dielectric material on one end of the coax until you have exposed 3" of center conductor. Behind the bulkhead wall, with a flashlight (and possibly a helper on the outside where the fish tape enters the underbelly), find the end of the fish tape and pull the end to you. Thread the center conductor through the end of the fish tape, bend it over, twist it around, then tape it securely.
5. On the DS, pull the fish tape out of the underbelly until you start pulling coax out of the underbelly. Go back to to the ODS and tie off the other end of the coax to something so you do not pull that end past the point of never reaching it again! Pull the rest of the coax out the DS.
6. Work the coax up into the underbelly along the length of the trailer back to the point where the wiring for the slide exit the underbelly and enter the flex-guard. While not mandatory, for some level of abrasion protection, consider using a length of 1/2" black split loom (it will hold 2 cables). Pull all the cable out of the underbelly and add your split loom, then weave the loaded split loom through an unused set of holes in the flex guard so you have your cable drooping at the outer edge of the slide room wall where the other cables go into the room.
7. Back at the UDC, locate a place in the existing TV wall plates to drill a hole for a new F-81 connector. Drill a 3/8" hole and install the F-81(s) with nut and washer and tighten
8. Fasten with tie-wraps behind bulkhead and UDC, trim to length, then connectorize coax and connect to back of F-81.
9. Reinstall all of the self-tappers to put the Coruplast back up.
10. Now the part I am fuzziest on as I have never looked that close at the slide room. You need to make a hole in the slide room floor to get the coax up and into the entertainment area. I suggest you drill this hole near but not touching the existing hole that the current coaxes go through. Before drilling, from the inside of your RV, "find" these coax cables where they come into the slide room. This may involve removing a fireplace, cabinet bottom etc. Be careful but do what you have to to be certain you know where your drill bit will be coming into the RV. Drill your hole, inserts your new coax cable(s), trim your split-loom, seal the penetration.
11. Inside the RV, do what you have to to get the new coax cable(s) up into the area you need them. This may require drilling of 3/8" holes (per cable or one 1/2" for 2 cables) and fastening cables. Connectorize and viola!

I would fully expect others to put a finer point on this process as this is just off the top of my head sitting here in my home office. It is not a complicated process. Just a bit of tedium. Plan a few hours, take your time and do it right. A helper would be a big plus for cable handling and finding

 

[ChopperBill]

I got so frustrated that I was about to drill a hole through the back of the cabinet where the receiver sets in the entertainment area and put one of those cable adapters that you can find in most RV stores. But, I ended up taking it back to the dealer the second time and they pulled a new cable. 160 total miles. Not so sure I wouldnt do the hole deal the next time. Sure would eliminate a lot of problems with a bunch of cable.

 

[RVFun4Us]

Thanks again everyone for your responses. I talked to the dealer about it today. I am going to go on our initial trip, document any other problem that pops up during our six week stay in the Big Horn, and then take in to the dealer in early September for a fix for all problems identified including the satellite connection. They said they would run a continuity check on the cables but also said that should have been done during the PDI. Well, I think they forgot that so will be interesting to see what they find when checking in September. Since I will be under manufacturer warranty for a year on most items, I will try to make sure to test everything.