Side skirt trim help needed

n3zmw

Member
While walking around the back of my TT I noticed that the metal trim that holds the side skirt appeared to be bowed out a little bit. Upon further examination I discovered that the screw head, though still in the hole, had broken off the screw shank. I've found a total of 4 screws thus far in this segment that are broken. My question: how do I extract the screw portion that is in the trailer so I can put new screws in? For the professional repair folks: how would you fix this? BTW, my one year warranty expired on 4 July. I'll post pics when I figure out how.

2019 Heartland Mallard M33
 

WillyBill

Well-known member
While walking around the back of my TT I noticed that the metal trim that holds the side skirt appeared to be bowed out a little bit. Upon further examination I discovered that the screw head, though still in the hole, had broken off the screw shank. I've found a total of 4 screws thus far in this segment that are broken. My question: how do I extract the screw portion that is in the trailer so I can put new screws in? For the professional repair folks: how would you fix this? BTW, my one year warranty expired on 4 July. I'll post pics when I figure out how.

2019 Heartland Mallard M33

Carefully remove the moulding-there is butyl sealant under it but it will release with gradual pressure, especially while it's warmer weather. There has been enough left of the screws that I've dealt with to be able to turn them out with a small pair of Vise Grip Pliers. Careful not to kink that moulding-it's very soft metal. Seal around every single screw with clear silicone caulk-inject a small dollop into each hole before putting screw in. While your are at it, pull and seal around all screws on all doors and access covers. This is a very commom entry point for rot to start in the flooring. Good Luck.

WB
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
If the remaining screw shank is flush I would just run a new screw right next to the old shank.

Peace
Dave
 

n3zmw

Member
Each one that I can see broke flush with the wall structure. I'd have to elongate the trim hole to get the screw in next to the old one. Once I have permission in my profile to post attachments I'll put up the pics.
 

n3zmw

Member
I've achieved two posts so I can now add attachments.
 

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Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
I assume it goes from the rear cap to the fender. So I think if it were me I would pull it off and try to get the screws out with vise grips. If that doesn't work I would try to flip it over (If possible) and hope that the holes would be in a different spot then the broken screws.

Hope this helps
Jerrod
 

bevrick

Member
Try drilling out old screw with left hand drill bit, or drill old screw with small drill bit to start then a little bigger and put in new slightly smaller screw in same hole with a dab of sealant seal around screw heads also and clean and reseal rest of caulking affected
 

n3zmw

Member
Thanks all for the advice. I checked the jhole alignment and they would be offset if I flipped the trim piece, but i'd have to drill one more hole in the end to really hold it in place. I'm considering one of these to capture and remove the old shank then use epoxy to glue in dowels and fill the original holes.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00823A-Diamond-Drill-Piece/dp/B00ODSS5NO/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=1%2F4"+hole+saw&qid=1563929551&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Not a diamond saw of course but you get the idea.
 
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