Solar mounting

clotus

Member
Hey guys just bought a 2015 Sundance XLT 245. The family loves it, but I do not love the one cheesy Dealer installed battery and lack of charging capabilities. Enter Solar power. I had been researching solar a lot while the rig was being built. Now that I have it I have a very simple, but important question: How do I mount the panels to the roof? The Z-feet seem popular, but is there enough wood on the roof? Do I simply screw them in? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Example of the mounts can be found here: http://www.solar-electric.com/sopozrvmofes.html. This is for example only.
 

jimtoo

Moderator
Hi clotus,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and to the family. We have a great bunch of folks here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed.

I'm sure some of our other members will jump in soon with some info about the solar systems they have installed.

We also have a great search engine on the forum, both simple and advanced also. Sometimes that is the fastest way to find an answer instead of waiting on someone to reply.

Also be sure and check out our Heartland Owners Club. Join us at a rally when you can and meet lots of the great folks here and make friends for a lifetime.

Enjoy the forum and your new unit.

Jim M

Also moving to solar area.
 

Jim.Allison

Well-known member
Have you considered the adhesive backed flexible solar panels? Check my photos of how I installed mine. It was peel and stick. Another guy used a flexible solar panel and mounted with double sided tape and dicor.

The consensus was it was a simpler install with no penetrations.


Hey guys just bought a 2015 Sundance XLT 245. The family loves it, but I do not love the one cheesy Dealer installed battery and lack of charging capabilities. Enter Solar power. I had been researching solar a lot while the rig was being built. Now that I have it I have a very simple, but important question: How do I mount the panels to the roof? The Z-feet seem popular, but is there enough wood on the roof? Do I simply screw them in? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Example of the mounts can be found here: http://www.solar-electric.com/sopozrvmofes.html. This is for example only.
 

Silverado23

Iowa Chapter Leaders
Using the flexible panels, Will the adhesive or heat from the panels eventually damage the roof or cause the roof to age faster?
 
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BlackT

Member
I installed conventional framed solar panels that I removed from my previous trailer on my new rig using Z brackets. I drilled out the holes in the brackets a little so that I could use 1/4" lag screws to fasten them to the roof. Used lots of lap sealant on the screws and both sides of the brackets. They feel pretty secure. I think the roof is 1/2" plywood under the rubber. If I didn't already have conventional solar panels I would have given serious consideration to flexible panels.
 

crazybanshee

Well-known member
Like BlackT said I used lag screws into the plywood decking with plenty of sealant. Been on my RV for eight years and in very strong wind conditions without any damage or leaks. Ran the wires down the tank vent pipe into the basement.
 

Jim.Allison

Well-known member
I doubt it, but I will seal it with dicor if it does, I'm not concerned about it, my panels are very efficient and inexpensive. They are very durable and you can walk on them. Like I said there are others flexible panels that give more latitude as far as adhesives are concerned. Eternabond tape either double sided or single sided can come in very handy with this installation.

As far as roof damage, I try to keep up with these panels and I have not read about any failures. And there are a lot of them on the tops of RVs.

I paid $189 each panel.

Using the flexible panels, Will the adhesive or heat from the panels eventually damage the roof or cause the roof to age faster?
 

clotus

Member
Have you considered the adhesive backed flexible solar panels? Check my photos of how I installed mine. It was peel and stick. Another guy used a flexible solar panel and mounted with double sided tape and dicor.

The consensus was it was a simpler install with no penetrations.


I like the idea of the flexible panels, but I do not have 18' of real estate on my roof. My 5'er is the shortest one made (26'6" overall), I would have gone shorter too. Either way I do not have an 18' straight run with the vents, skylight, A/C etc.

Does anyone know how thick the wood paneling is for sure on the Sundance XLT's?

I looked at my paperwork and all I get is "rubber skin, wood decking, block foam insulator and ceiling vinyl" for a total of 3". Mildly interesting without actual thicknesses
 

Jim.Allison

Well-known member
I did not realize that mine were 18 feet long. They say that the mind is the second thing to go.

The ones I have are the longest ones, the same company has others that are shorter. 10 feet I think, and they are all 15 inches wide. There is another company that makes one that is square or slightly rectangular, it does not have an adhesive backing but one member did a nice job attaching one of those to his rig. These are highly efficient panels, so you might find that you do not need as many as I have, my system is really over designed. I started out with 2 then went to four for no other reason than they were so cheap.

Here is a link to some panel that I once considered.

http://www.globalsolar.com/products/flexible-modules/rv

I like the idea of the flexible panels, but I do not have 18' of real estate on my roof. My 5'er is the shortest one made (26'6" overall), I would have gone shorter too. Either way I do not have an 18' straight run with the vents, skylight, A/C etc.

Does anyone know how thick the wood paneling is for sure on the Sundance XLT's?

I looked at my paperwork and all I get is "rubber skin, wood decking, block foam insulator and ceiling vinyl" for a total of 3". Mildly interesting without actual thicknesses
 

bobca1

Well-known member
Not sure if you saw my install I posted in the the other solar forum (just realized there are 2).
Roof on the cyclone is pretty solid I used some larger screws than what came with the brackets I have no concern about the screws not holding.
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/50763-Solar-install-on-2015-Cyclone-3110
 

caissiel

Senior Member
Bought 4 sets of hinges and drilled the pin bores to fit 1/4" pins. Mounted them on angles shimmed to the roof. Then used 1/4" lag bolts screwed in the roof. By using extension bars I am able to tilt them on both sides. But have not tilted them yet but makes washing under the solar much simpler.
My roof is 7/16 strand board.
 

Silverado23

Iowa Chapter Leaders
I doubt it, but I will seal it with dicor if it does, I'm not concerned about it, my panels are very efficient and inexpensive. They are very durable and you can walk on them. Like I said there are others flexible panels that give more latitude as far as adhesives are concerned. Eternabond tape either double sided or single sided can come in very handy with this installation.

As far as roof damage, I try to keep up with these panels and I have not read about any failures. And there are a lot of them on the tops of RVs.

I paid $189 each panel.


With your solar panels flat mounted and fixed, What kind of output do you see? Are you able to generate some power in daylight without the sun necessarily being overhead? Do you have to be concerned with partly shaded cells from say the AC shroud, open vents or even an overhead branch partly blocking part of a panel? Obviously, the sun not being overhead reduces output. I am probably going to build a similar system to yours. In addition to occasional dry camping without shore power want to make sure that I install enough panels to run the Refer from propane and 12V for a week without having to run the batteries dead. I only have space for two batteries at this time so that may be the other limit.
 

Jim.Allison

Well-known member

With your solar panels flat mounted and fixed, What kind of output do you see?

544 watts and 48V, Charger output about 38 amps 14v. I can't give you exact, but my Morning Stare charger interface keeps a 60 day record. When I go through that record I can see what is normal output, I see the min max's for each day. The record is what you would expect if you were taking the data from the spec sheet of the panels.

I can definitely tell when there is significant cloud cover because it shows up, but even some energy is better than none.

Are you able to generate some power in daylight without the sun necessarily being overhead?

I have generated power on a full moon. I could not believe it the first time I noticed it.

My datalog shows immediate production at sunrise, and sufficient production at mid morning. The inverse is true for the evening. It is noteworthy that when panels get hot they produce less, cooler the better, so it is very possible that mid day will not be any more than late morning.

Do you have to be concerned with partly shaded cells from say the AC shroud, open vents or even an overhead branch partly blocking part of a panel?

These panels are designed to produce even with partially shaded cells. This is critical.


Obviously, the sun not being overhead reduces output.

But overhead may produce less because of heat. but overhead on a cold day is optimum, if the batteries are not cold. Solar panels produce best in direct sunlight on a winter day, but batteries have a hard time accepting a charge.

In the summer solar panels produce less but batteries accept a charge more readily.


I am probably going to build a similar system to yours. In addition to occasional dry camping without shore power want to make sure that I install enough panels to run the Refer from propane and 12V for a week without having to run the batteries dead. I only have space for two batteries at this time so that may be the other limit.

Adding onto a system is difficult, it is best to buy your panels at the same time, the same hold true with the batts.

Take an energy survey. Lights, and the control system of an RV do not require a lot of power. But an inverter and the AC appliances do.

Basically it takes 1/2 lb of battery to store an amp hour. You should only use about 50% of the total ah stored in a battery, so if it is 150 ah at the 20 hour rate, you can only use 75 amp hours.

If I were you I would try to shoot for 300 amp hour total to have 150 available.
 

Silverado23

Iowa Chapter Leaders
544 watts and 48V, Charger output about 38 amps 14v. I can't give you exact, but my Morning Stare charger interface keeps a 60 day record. When I go through that record I can see what is normal output, I see the min max's for each day. The record is what you would expect if you were taking the data from the spec sheet of the panels.

Thanks for all the info. I am working on a plan for my system so that I do not have to upgrade or add on later.


How do you deal with the TV on-board AC to DC power converter? is this just connected to the batteries like it came from the factory and you wire in the power from the solar controller to the batteries in parallel to the converter or is there some other way to deal with multiple charging systems?
 

caissiel

Senior Member
I just added to the existing system. Plugged in the batteries are charged by the sun everyday and at night the converter kicks in at about 13.2 volts. In clear sky with no shade I just switch off the converter. So far the solar system has maintained the batteries perfectly with no water loss in over 2 years.
Added a 3rd battery because the 2 existing were fully charged at 11. A 3rd allows us to use the furnase longer on the fall and spring with shorter days.
 

Jim.Allison

Well-known member
Thanks for all the info. I am working on a plan for my system so that I do not have to upgrade or add on later.


How do you deal with the TV on-board AC to DC power converter? is this just connected to the batteries like it came from the factory and you wire in the power from the solar controller to the batteries in parallel to the converter or is there some other way to deal with multiple charging systems?

The existing charger/converter works well together with the solar charger. Each one has a different charging parameter, you hook them to the batts and they will figure out between them when the batteries have met a charging curve. What I do to make sure that I'm getting charging from where I want, I turn off all other charging mechanism. The only time I run two charging devices is when I'm towing, then I run both the TV and the solar. But in reality you can run the house charger, the solar charger at the same time and your batts will be charged.

So the answer is no you do not have to relocate anything, just plug and play. When you install the solar charger you will put in a switch, and when you are on pedestal you can turn you solar off. Or you can leave your solar on and turn the breaker to you house charger off. But there is no conflict between the charging devices.
 

Silverado23

Iowa Chapter Leaders
I suspected that the chargers would play nice together but it is good to have confirmation and as you said you can force charging from one source by turning off the other sources.
 

skyguy

Well-known member
clotus -
Welcome to our forum!

We have a 2010 Bighorn. Mounted two solar panels on the roof last spring. I felt the same way - the first hole I drilled for the first screw, my thought was "Boy this seems awfully thin! Will it hold??" So far they have been fine, and still rock solid. I did include a generous helping of DICOR in the screw hole first, underneath the Z-feet where the rest on the roof, around the screw (used stainless), and then over the screw when done. I believe the DICOR also acts as a glue.

Good luck with the new install!
 

clotus

Member
Thanks for all the help. I think the standard mounting will work for me.

By the way, per Heartland the wood decking for 2015 Sundance XLT is 3/8", which I would imagine is pretty standard across all of their lines.
 

Jim.Allison

Well-known member
Are there fasteners that can be inserted into 3/8 that provide a metal thread? I'm thinking it looks like a button with a threaded hole that locks into the deck then provides a permanent coarse thread, thereby eliminating wood screws.
 
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