Spring and U-Bolts Maintenance on BC

caissiel

Senior Member
We purchased the Unit in August 2010 , and the unit was manufactured in March 2009. The unit was in possession of the dealer during that time.

While reading posts about the spring problems, and my experience with the last unit I became conscious that the 7000 Lbs axles could also give me some problems.

While reading the posts on the spring I started to doubt my own and started to take pictures of the setup and communicated with Lippert. According to the correspondence with the warranty dept we assumed the springs were possibly starting to fail on the rear axle.

After the first Pics I used my torque wrench and check all the U-Bolts. The rear axle U-Bolts were actually loose, and needed 2 turns to tighten them enough for 70Ft-Lb. The right side front U-Bolts were at about 40 Ft-Lbs. But the front springs looked much better then the rear axle ones.

It was determined if I wanted to do the repairs myself I would have to pay for the springs and if they were bad I would get my money back. But because I had loose rear U-Bolts Lippert proceeded and shipped me new U-Bolts and Plates.

I received the parts Wednesday and proceeded to do the repairs Thursday afternoon.
To my surprise the left rear spring center bolt was broken at the axle alignment hole and the spring was pushed back by about ¾”. This surely misaligned the axles. But all my tire wear was normal, so this only happened lately. The spring fell apart when I removed it, so I proceeded to change all the springs.

When I tried to take the first shock the bottom nut could not be removed due to the shock stud being bend so much that it damaged the threads. So I proceeded to remove the spring only and decided to replace the U-Bolts. When I tried to replace the U-Bolts I noticed that the new bolts were much bigger and could not be installed in the existing plates. So I removed the shocks by the top nuts and replaced the larger U-Bolts and the heavier plates that Lippert sold me. The U bolts are longer and 9/16” dia. The plates are thicker and have only required holes that make them much stronger.

This clarified my assumption that the U-Bolts did not loosened up but the Plates bend under the extra stress of heavier springs. The installation really looks great and in line with heavy springs. The plates and U-Bolts are as heavy duty as the ones on the Ford SD I tow the trailer with.

I feel the the shock were going to fail anyway because the rubbers at top and bottom are all cracked due to sideways forces on the studs.

I have not reinstalled them and waiting to get home and modifying the installation of the shocks so they are not exposed to so much side forces.

I am keeping the springs for spares because I never traveled without spares with the previous and was in the lookout for new ones anyway. The new and old springs are build with a flat section on the center portion, when loaded they appear having a reversed arc at the axle. So the new axle installation looks exactly as the old springs did. I concluded that the flat section has to bend under load and I had assumed it was the springs failing. I am surprised that the technicians at Lippert did not tell me about it that it was normal. I am glad I did install the heavier Plates and U-Bolts. I will be in contact with Lippert next week about my results.

This trailer frame has been designed to fail and in no way I could let it be that way while I have to tow it across the countries of Canada and USA. I cannot believe that I drove this unit this far without checking the Axles home while I had all the tools required.
I though with a new trailer I was going to be free of any major maintenance. But so far I have made more repairs to this unit in 8 months then I did in my previous unit in 12Years.

I am not complaining about the building of this unit but I feel that these units should be properly serviced at the dealers before we are left to travel with them hooked on our trucks. This has made my experience with the previous trailer, valuable but not enough to tackle the problems I have faced with this one.

We love our unit and will have it for a long time, but I wish that all owners of these units be aware of the maintenance requirements of these heavier designed units.

The following attachments are the pics of the axle observations during this maintenance procedure.
 

Attachments

  • 1 Left Rear Sprin&#.JPG
    1 Left Rear Sprin&#.JPG
    236.7 KB · Views: 124
  • 2 Failed Left Rea&#1.JPG
    2 Failed Left Rea&#1.JPG
    277.5 KB · Views: 118
  • 5 New and Old UBo&#10.JPG
    5 New and Old UBo&#10.JPG
    478.1 KB · Views: 116
  • 3 Compared New an&#.JPG
    3 Compared New an&#.JPG
    279 KB · Views: 119
  • 6 New Left Rear S&#11.JPG
    6 New Left Rear S&#11.JPG
    195.5 KB · Views: 119
  • 4 Left Rear Sprin&#.JPG
    4 Left Rear Sprin&#.JPG
    232.7 KB · Views: 111

tmcran

Well-known member
Good job! I have had our present RV in the dealer more in the first 2 1/2 months we had it than the SOB we had for 3 years.
 

Elevatorman

Active Member
Caissiel-----I'm bringing mine out of storage next week to start on these things that need attention, (as soon as the pollen storm stops), and was wondering what supports were used when removing only one spring on one side. These axle tubes don't look strong enough to take any jacking pressure. I'm thinking frame support with a bottle jack behind or outside of the wheel and a jack stand under the tube itself, just to hold it in place ? Also does the axle self align due to the shackle location and center bolt ? thanks, J.
 

2010augusta

Well-known member
Laurent, I am really confused now. You have now replaced the all four springs, 8 U-bolts, and four spring plates, and the rear spring looks just as wavy as the old one? There has to be something else behind this issue.

I was curious so I took a couple pics of our springs to compare to your pictures. The site we are in is slightly up-hill towards the rear of the trailer and that makes the equalizer tilt, but hear is the spring on our LM(which are 3,500# springs and 7,000# axles and the trailer weighs about 16,200#, so we are very close to the weight limit of the trailer).

All of our springs still have a nice curvy to them, I would still be concerned if the new spring looked like a "W".
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0396 [800x600]..jpg
    DSCN0396 [800x600]..jpg
    92.9 KB · Views: 86
  • DSCN0398 [800x600]..jpg
    DSCN0398 [800x600]..jpg
    117 KB · Views: 82
  • DSCN0397 [800x600]..jpg
    DSCN0397 [800x600]..jpg
    112.2 KB · Views: 78

boatdoc

Well-known member
Last summer Lippert sent me all new springs for the 3670 as mine were "W'd". Put the new ones on and guess what, just clean new springs with a "W" in them. Now let me tell you, I have installed many a boat trailer spring in 32 years and NEVER have I seen springs look like a "W" as Lipperts do.
I checked several other rigs down South this winter and couldn't find a one with "W" springs on it. Our friends Teton, arched, our friends Jayco, arched, BIL's Carridge, arched. We made it down and back but I sure don't like the looks of Lippert's "W" springs and I'm about ready to call a spring shop and see about some REAL springs.
 

tmcran

Well-known member
Are these spring problems limited to the BH and BC models? I checked my Sundance the springs look ok.
 

2010augusta

Well-known member
Another thought I'd like to add is, the broken center pin IS caused by loose U-bolts.

I have seen many broken center pins in the off-roading world, and all can be trace back to U-bolts that have become loose for many different reasons. I have seen spring shims to correct pinion angles, smash down and create a space and make the bolts become loose, U-bolts on newly installed springs not be re-tightened after a few days or miles and the first trip out, the axle slides back on the spring.
 

SouthernNights

Past South Carolina Chapter Leader
I hate to tell you Laurent, but you still have a problem. I like the 9/16 u bolts and the heavier plate, but in no way are multi leaf springs designed to work past their compression point. As a rule of thumb, their max compression point is almost flat but never in shape of a W. There are some springs that are designed to work this way, but they are mono single leaf springs, generally made from a composite.

I was fleet mgr for a large fleet in Ga., we ran trucks under severe service, in other words-off road. Springs were a constant maintenance problem due to the off road conditions. Every spring stack got inspected at regular intervals, we had specs from Ford and Mack that we used to measure arch and deflection. Once the springs started to flatten out, they got replaced. We did not re-arch them, rebuild etc. The trailer springs were more prone to what your pic shows than the tractors. We knew we were overloaded on the trailer tandems, usually around 38k. This was caused by the tandem set up. They had to be slid up 10' from the ICC bumper. That helps with turn overs and turning radius. But it loads up the trailer springs.

The way your spring looks in the picture is the way these trailer springs looked when they were past their life span.

There is another condition that can cause springs to W like that. I doubt that it is the cause on your trailer but if the hangers are not the correct distance from the equalizer ( to close) it will cause the spring to flip. As a leaf is compressed and starts to flatten out, it grows in length. It will either break something or create a W or wave in the spring to shorten itself. These frames are built on jigs and the placement of the hangers in relation to the equalizer should be the same form trailer to trailer.

I am not trying to add to your problems but after installing new springs and you still have this condition, you might want to dig a little deeper.
 

RollingHome

Well-known member
Laurent, I agree with Larry, you still have a serious problem. I suggest you get a competent spring shop involved. Also, your new U-bolt nuts... They are not as good as the old ones. My research revealed the new nuts, on the right (from what I can see in the pic) to be Grade B nuts. Grade B have 3 dots equal distance on the nut face (Grade C have 6 dots). The old ones with the skirts, on the left are grade G flange nuts. Grade B have less strenght (and usually cost less ). They are capable of clamp loads of 13,000 pounds each. Grade B 9/16" - 18 nuts are torqued from 57.5 to 77.5 foot pounds. The old Grade G 9/16" - 18 flange nuts have a clamp load capability of 18,300 pounds each. G's are torqued between 88 to 132 foot pounds. This equates to losing over 5000 pounds of clamping force at each spring plate - your old nuts were over 10 tons stronger then the new hardware as a cumulative group on your RV ! I don't know how much a u-bolt and associated pulling moment will be different then a grade 5 or 8 hex head bolt. The above figures are based on cad plated DRY (no lube, anti seize etc.) bolts and nuts. You may have even more problems. I believe you would really benefit from the services of a "been in business a long time" spring shop or large truck shop. Please keep us informed of the outcome and thanks for sharing. Tom

P.S. I don't keep as this stuff in my head ( I have terimnal CRS)... it can be viewed at www.imperialsupplies.com Good Luck.
 

RollingHome

Well-known member
Laurent, In looking at the U-Bolt pics it appears the old ones are smaller then the new ones. Maybe 1/2 v/s 9/16... so my 10 ton figure is wrong. However, I would not be surprised to see the smaller grade G be stronger then the new larger class B. The web site I gave you will have this info.
 

Tankie

Well-known member
We are getting ready to head to Alaska in May and thanks to the posts on the u-bolts and springs I am inspecting my bolts and springs. I have noticed that mine have that w look on our '09 3670. This gives me alot of concern since the roads in Canada and Alaska can be pretty rough. Since I know nothing about springs I think a stop at a spring shop just got added to our to do list. Thanks all for the heads up.
 

RollingHome

Well-known member
Tankie, RV'ing to Alaska would be a dream trip for this right coaster... I envy you :) Please post a forum thread w/pics when you get back so I can imagine "one day". Enjoy yourself and have a great time. Also, ur a smart man putting the spring shop on your itinerary. When and if I can move my brand new 3670RL I think I too will visit one thanks to Laurent's problems and fiasco...
 

janitor1

Member
We have a 2009 Heartland Bighorn. I posted awhile back about the spring problems that I had. We contacted Lippert about our problems with the suspension - similar to yours. Look up my previous post for all of the details. Anyway, we drove down to Lippert last fall. Lippert warrantied - free of charge - work on the suspension. They replaced both axles with longer axles. They replaced all of the springs and Trail-Air Equalizers to 8000 lb springs and Trail-Air Equalizers and added a wet-bolt kit - all for free! The 2 gentlemen that worked on our RV, as well as the service people were all extremely nice to us and did excellent work. Even though we were inially upset to have to deal with this problem, we were very happy to work with this company. I'm attaching before and after photos.View attachment 7634View attachment 7633i put the pictures back wards the fixed one is first
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3369..JPG
    IMG_3369..JPG
    122.9 KB · Views: 68
  • IMG_1325..JPG
    IMG_1325..JPG
    116.5 KB · Views: 65
Last edited:

RollingHome

Well-known member
Now the pics are working fine ??? Must of been me doing something or not. I agree with others the springs look like they should. Also glad Lippert stepped up to the plate and did the right thing for you so you can safely use your unit. Tom
 

Tankie

Well-known member
After looking at those pics I know I have spring issues. Mine look just like the 2nd pic. janitor1, how long did it take to resolve this spring issue? Thanks

P.S. rollinghome, thank you, we will enjoy our journey.
 
Top