What I built and now use
Upon arrival at camp site I backed into site, leveled sideways above axles.
unhooked and put out slide, left front down ½ bubble or more.
Put my blocking under back stabilizers, put stab down just snug on top of blocking. I only have to lower stabs about 2 inchs.
Raised the front end up above center of bubble. Putting weight on back stabs. Run my front ones down snug onto blocking and lowered front down to level. no movement.
I then put 2- 4x6 blocks down just in front of front axle and put another stab
On blocking and snuged it up to frame and then gave it one full turn.
Taking the movement out of spring setup. Did this to both sides
Absolutely no side movement, and VERY little forward movement as I put wheel chocks behind both side wheels backed into them, then put ones in front of front wheels and let off brakes. Rolling forward onto chocks
We had major side winds on Sunday and trailer DID NOT MOVE AT ALL.
Last year I found the trailer quite unstable and wondered why my old prowler was rock solid. Over winter I finally realized it was lower to ground My blocking was closer to frame.
Realizing when the stabs are down all the way the trailer is standing on tooth picks (stabs lowered all the way to ground.) with no control of rock
When no space the arms of stabs are at a lot wider stance, and movement is being forced to hold still.
Works the same way as the JT strong arms but much, mush cheaper and taking the bounce out of the suspension works GREAT
Stabilizer blocking I built.
4- milk grates
4- 4x6 treated wood- 3 feet (cut into 9” lengths)
16- 2 x 2 wood -12 foot long or 2- 6 foot long (cut into 9” lengths)
12- 3/8 plywood - 1 sheet (cut into 11-3/4” x 11-3/4”) square,
may have to trim to fit inside milk crate.
As the bottom already has a hard plastic bottom for distributing and supporting weight.
I used 1 piece of plywood on bottom.
Screwed 1-2x2 upright on each corner, 4 total each crate. I then screwed 1-4x6 in centre (standing upright) of plywood.
Then I put 2 pieces of plywood on top and screwed them to bottom base.
This whole thing slips into milk crate.
When milk crates break, can just take out assembled block and put into new crate
Built up spacer for stabilizers and light weight. When assembled it sits down about ½ inch from top of crate and can stack on top of each other for storage
left over plywood can use for blocking and also if muddy or soft ground can put under milk crate to keep crate from sinking into ground and making mess with dirt stuck to bottom.
I bought 10 feet of 4x6 treated and cut the rest into 1 foot lengths, and use for side (3rd) stabilizers in front of wheels, as previously stated.
