Strange water pressure.....possibly a valve or breaker??

[82tpsmith]

So I've got what seems to me a strange situation. I recently changed my fresh water hose with anew hose, same style and same ID of 1/2". After changing the hose, possibly a coincidence of timing, I get verylow water pressure all through the rig. However, if I simultaneously run several faucets at once (i.e. bathroom sink,shower and flush toilet) I can then turn off two faucets and get normal or goodpressure through the remaining third faucet???? Once third faucet is turned off, if I let itsit for a few minutes, I go back to very low pressure. This would lead me to believe that I amgetting good pressure from fresh water connection and also that my pressureregulator is functioning properly. Ihave been in the same park for over two years and have not experienced any inconsistencieswith water pressure. I am at aloss. I am no plumber, but I can onlyguess that it must be some sort of valve of some sort, just don't want to goreplacing this and that unless I've got a good idea of what the issue might be.

Any ideas???

Thanks for your help.

 

[Eddhuy]

I have a pressure gauge after my regulator but before the UDC. I would check pressure there when it seems low and again when it seems normal. if no change there then I'd have to leave it to someone who knows more about these RVs. If there is then move the gauge to before the regulator and test again.

 

[jnbhobe]

Is there a screen in the hose or water inlet that could be plugged.

 

[danemayer]

Hi 82tpsmith,

Here's a list of things to try to narrow down the problem.

If the problem started immediately after changing the hose, I'd start there.

• Disconnect the hose and check the flow coming through the hose.
• Check the city water connection to see if the screen is clogged.
• If you have a water filter, remove it from the system.
• See if you have the same problem using the water pump - city water disconnected or shut off.
• If everything's ok using the pump, the problem is probably very close to the UDC.
  • Take down the basement wall so you can see the plumbing behind the UDC. Check for kinked lines.
• I see you previously worked on the bypass valves. Check that they're in the normal position and that the antifreeze valve is in the normal position.
• Turn off the water heater and bypass it. Test to see if the problem goes away.
• Make sure the outside shower faucets are turned off.

 

[82tpsmith]

I have a pressure gauge after my regulator but before the UDC. I would check pressure there when it seems low and again when it seems normal. if no change there then I'd have to leave it to someone who knows more about these RVs. If there is then move the gauge to before the regulator and test again.

I like the idea, I have a feeling the presure is good all the time from the connection, but it would be good to get an accurate reading.

Thanks

 

[82tpsmith]

Is there a screen in the hose or water inlet that could be plugged.

I'm not for sure, but I'll take a look. But...if it were clogged by a screen, I can't understand why sometimes it would work, and why it would't work other times. I would think if it were clogged up from a screen, there would be an issue at all times???

 

[82tpsmith]

Hi 82tpsmith,

Here's a list of things to try to narrow down the problem.

If the problem started immediately after changing the hose, I'd start there.

• Disconnect the hose and check the flow coming through the hose.
• Check the city water connection to see if the screen is clogged.
• If you have a water filter, remove it from the system.
• See if you have the same problem using the water pump - city water disconnected or shut off.
• If everything's ok using the pump, the problem is probably very close to the UDC.
  • Take down the basement wall so you can see the plumbing behind the UDC. Check for kinked lines.
• I see you previously worked on the bypass valves. Check that they're in the normal position and that the antifreeze valve is in the normal position.
• Turn off the water heater and bypass it. Test to see if the problem goes away.
• Make sure the outside shower faucets are turned off.

Great, another list I've got to chip away at....better get started with the DW's first though

I'll check water pressure from hose, haven't done that yet. No water filter for the rig installed, so that won't be an issue. Unfortunatly I don't have the water pump plumbed with the water system right now. A couple of months back we had a small flood in the basement and for a quick fix I re-routed some of the fresh water lines, to just by pass the water pump. Now, I know this might sound like the problem, but everything was working fine for over 2 months with it plumbed that way. I just ordered the parts to reconnect everything back to the way it was, so when I have the basement appart, I'll take a look at the UDC connection and such.

I like the idea of bypassing the water heater, my understanding is that there is a check valve on the top side of the water heater, if that were broken, it might be evident when bypassed. Although I won't be able to check that until I get everything plumbed back to original specs.

Sounds like I know what I'm taling about, but in reality I just learn a lot of this site, the internet and you tube!!!

 

[82tpsmith]

Thanks for all the great ideas so far. Now I've got something to keep me busy this weekend, out side of the long list of other TO DO's!!!

 

[Rickhansen]

There is a check valve at the fresh water connection in the UDC (pretty much a ball with a spring behind it). It's job is to keep water from from the fresh water tank from flowing back into the hose or UDC when you're running the pump. With the pump on, the water pressure in your rig (along with the spring) keeps it shut. Mine usually makes a humming sound when using water from the fresh water connection.

While you have your hose disconnected, turn the pump on and gently push in on that valve with your finger or a screw driver. You may have to remove a sediment screen to get at it, I don't recall. Water will squirt/spray out clearing any possible obstruction. If it is not moving freely, it could be your problem by not opening at low flow (low differential pressure) but still opening properly at high flow (high differential pressure).