Suburban water heater pooped.

[carl.swoyer]

So I need a new water heater. Factory was a suburban sw12de.
Throwing it out there if you want to suggest any ideas on an upgrade. Myself personally I think the replacement cost on the original it crazy.

P.S. I HOPE I POSTED THIS CORRECTLY.lol

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[danemayer]

Re: Suburban water heater pooped.

Carl,

I would assume that a replacement is needed because the tank was damaged either by a freeze, or by a worn out anode rod, or perhaps by some maintenance action that went wrong.

I think everything else should be repairable at a relatively low cost compared to a new unit.

There are so far as I'm aware, 3 choices. 1) Direct replacement heater. 2) Switch to an Atwood unit that is comparable, but deal with possible differences in where the propane connects and how the electric is supplied in your unit. Until recently, I think wiring to the Suburban and Atwood might be a little different. 3) Switch to a tankless solution that runs on propane only - just make sure you don't ever run out of propane. Again, the connections may take some modification.

 

[carl.swoyer]

Dane,
My Landmark is a 2012.
I'm thinking that your implying that I might be a little short on maintenance.

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[JohnDar]

Dane,
My Landmark is a 2012.
I'm thinking that your implying that I might be a little short on maintenance.

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You weren't specific on what happened to your water heater to necessitate a full replacement. On mine, so far, I've replaced the circuit board and the 12V Hi-Limit switch a few years ago. Only on my second anode rod (the first one wasn't all that bad when I replaced it). Same water heater as yours, too.

 

[danemayer]

Dane,
My Landmark is a 2012.
I'm thinking that your implying that I might be a little short on maintenance.

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Actually, since I know from your posts on the forum that you have quite a bit of expertise in a number of areas, I was assuming you wouldn't have a tank failure and I'm wondering why it needs to be replaced.

 

[Piperflyer]

Hope you trouble shot it before you decided it needed to be replaced. It could be only a $4.00 part. The heater is a piece of cake to really work on.

 

[carl.swoyer]

Well I stored it for 3.5 months. Today we were getting ready to go on an impromptu road trip. Drained the freshwater, new water filter and flipped on the lever for the ice maker. 2 hours later drip drip. Open the wall in the basement and I see water dripping from the lower water line on the back of the heater.

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[carl.swoyer]

Dane I wasn't trying to be a smart *** in my previous msg. I was just looking for input. I plan on pulling it in the am for a real close inspection. If I sounded that way, my apologies to you

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[danemayer]

Well I stored it for 3.5 months. Today we were getting ready to go on an impromptu road trip. Drained the freshwater, new water filter and flipped on the lever for the ice maker. 2 hours later drip drip. Open the wall in the basement and I see water dripping from the lower water line on the back of the heater.

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Take a close look at the upper connection which is the hot output. You probably have a plastic check valve and they are well known for cracking that leads to leaks.

If it's actually the lower connection leaking, it's more likely to be the 90 degree swivel fitting that screws onto the nipple coming out of the water heater.

 

[JohnDar]

Well I stored it for 3.5 months. Today we were getting ready to go on an impromptu road trip. Drained the freshwater, new water filter and flipped on the lever for the ice maker. 2 hours later drip drip. Open the wall in the basement and I see water dripping from the lower water line on the back of the heater.

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The fittings are plastic and can deteriorate and crack. Usually, it's the top one where the hot water outlet/check valve is. The lower is the cold water inlet. Should be easy enough to replace the fitting and not the entire water heater.

 

[carl.swoyer]

I did notice a trail from the upper fitting. Should I pull the tank completely or try to replace the fittings.

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[jnbhobe]

I replaced my check valve without any removal of the tank Pretty easy to do just be easy on the plastic it will break off at the tank then it's a little more work.

 

[danemayer]

I did notice a trail from the upper fitting. Should I pull the tank completely or try to replace the fittings.

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Page 14 of the Water Heater Troubleshooting Guide.

 

[carl.swoyer]

I'm also on my second anode. It doesn't look that bad.

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[carl.swoyer]

Good morning
I clicked on the link for the camco Check valve but the page is not available. Any chance someone has the part number

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[NWILSON]

I think this is the one you're after CHECK VALVE

 

[carl.swoyer]

Thanks for all the info folks

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[porthole]

So I need a new water heater. Factory was a suburban sw12de.
Throwing it out there if you want to suggest any ideas on an upgrade. Myself personally I think the replacement cost on the original it crazy.

P.S. I HOPE I POSTED THIS CORRECTLY.lol

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

You didn't say exactly what was wrong with it.
Does it leak?

Does it not work at all?
Work only on propane?

The electric heating element will burn out in seconds if turned on with insufficient water.
Do you have a small switch outside that looks like one of the interior light switches?

This switch goes bad from the long term high current flow.

There are also limit switches that can go bad. And some have reset buttons on them - that don't work.

If either the switch or electric element is bad both are relatively easy repairs, and about the same cost.
I haven't had to replace the element on our current trailer, but the last rig needed a $12 part (element).
The Cyclone has had the switch go bad, that part I had in the spare parts drawer.

#42 - on-off switch

#45 heating element

#37 - 38 limit switches




Here is a link for the common parts - a "tune up kit"

 

[carl.swoyer]

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[porthole]

Looks normal for one not checked often enough.

- - - Updated - - -

But what is the failure that you think the water heater needs to be replaced ?