toilet drains out.

[Jimalberta]

Hi ,

I have a small problem with the ball on the toilet not always returning back to fully closed. if I let the foot pedal snap back hard it will close or if I push on the ball slightly with my finger it seals off but often there is a slight crack at the back and the water slowly drains out of the bowl.
Is there an adjustment I can make to the ball so that it closes completely ? I did spray it with Pam but it didnt help much.

thanks in advance
Jim

 

[jnbhobe]

They always told me just to let it snap back, works every time. I do have a whole new assembly, but it still works fine the way it is.

 

[krhyde]

Make sure the rubber gasket it completely clean. I use a stiff tooth brush to scrub under the gasket and all around the ball. Then I put some vaseline under the rubber gasket to help soften it and that cured my problem.

 

[JohnDar]

If it's the original gasket, it's probably time for a replacement. Not all that difficult to do. You can try cleaning it and putting a dab of lube on it, but eventually, they wear out.

 

[Jimalberta]

thanks for the advice.

 

[kakampers]

Letting it "slap back" is the way it is supposed to work...

 

[mobilcastle]

I sprayed mine with silicone and let it sit there a while then put water in-worked fine.
Steve

 

[wdk450]

Some of the holding tank treatments say that they "lubricate the dump valves", and therefore should lubricate the toilet bowl sealing gasget.
I snap the pedal, use the cleaning tool (wood tongue depressor) that was in my blue literature bag, and pour the holding tank treatment into the bowl before flushing it into the tank.

 

[Duramax1]

i have also experienced a draining problem.

the solution that works for me everytime is to raise the foot pedal for a couple of seconds after flushing the toilet

 

[aatauses]

Depending on your age of the unit, you can call Sea-Land and they will send you a gasket kit---about a 30 min job to replace. When you get them on the phone, ask for a manuel and it will state that you are to let the peddle "snap" back to ensure a good seal.
al
currently in Kenai, ak

 

[wdk450]

Depending on your age of the unit, you can call Sea-Land and they will send you a gasket kit---about a 30 min job to replace. When you get them on the phone, ask for a manuel and it will state that you are to let the peddle "snap" back to ensure a good seal.
al
currently in Kenai, ak

The manual is on this website. Go to the top of this (any forum) page, click on "Tools", then on Heartland Owners Manuals, Plumbing, Toilet, Sealand .

 

[chasdvorak]

I was going to post this separately but it seems to fit this discussion....

Dometic/SeaLand SC 210 Toilet Seal Fix


I know this topic has been discussed in the past, but I have some new information which may help. My toilet bowl stopped holding water after 3+ years due to a seal leak. I performed the regular maintenance by cleaning the seal with the abrasive wand, but this time it did not work. I also tried re-positioning the rubber seal, coating the seal with lubricant and the other tricks with no success. The only remaining option was to replace the seals or replace the entire flush mechanism (seal kit and flush ball). I thought I'd try the seal kit since the flush ball kit would have been only slightly less than replacing the entire toilet.


Disassembly-


The toilet is comprised mainly of the china bowl and plastic pedestal base with the foot flush located on the left side. Shut down the water supply and drain the line by flushing the toilet until water flow stops. I removed the decorative base cover which is held on by velcro. The bowl and pedestal are held together by two large plastic clips which almost completely cover the circumference of the bowl/base. The plastic clips are held in place by a large stainless steel band with the screw clamp located behind the toilet. It is important to observe the orientation of the plastic clips and band before you remove them from the toilet to ensure proper re-assembly. The plastic clips have each have a small finger which cross-connect with each other to form a tight fit on the front side of the toilet. There should be no gap between this portion of the plastic clips. The back side of the plastic clips will have a gap of approximately 1" or so. The screw mechanism for the band clamp should line up with this gap. Again, please look at the positioning of the plastic clips and band clamp before disassembly. I did not remove the water supply line to the bowl, but was able to carefully position it so it didn't crimp the hose. I did get a small amount of water on the floor.


Seal Kit-

I purchased the seal kit from a local RV dealership for $40 and it was completely different from the original seals. The original seals contained a thin black rubber seal which fit into a heavy white teflon seal. The new kit contained a different set of black rubber seals that were not configured in the same manner (Picture 1 shows the old seals on the left with the replacement seals on the right).


The Dometic Part# for the seal kit I purchased was 385316140. This kit has a hole in each of the gaskets to facilitate an overflow feature that is not present on the SC 210. The packaging also contained an add-on note which stated that this kit could be used with the SC 210 type of toilet by flipping the thick seal which would offset the holes (Picture 2). I confirmed that this seal kit could be used on the SC 210 with the local RV Tech's and Diane at Dometic Customer Support. Dometic Part# 385311462 is the seal kit that does not have the overflow holes.


Assembly-


Assembly was pretty much the reverse of disassembly. I took some time to carefully check the flush ball for any debris, nicks or obstructions…there were none. You then place the thin seal on top of the ball with the "This Side Up" wording facing up. There is a notch which aligns with a notch on the pedestal, but it leaves some wiggle room. I think it is important to try and line up the seal so it sits evenly spaced on the ball. You then place the thick seal on top of the thin seal being sure to off-set the overflow hole while centering the seal in the notch. Both seals should centered equally around the ball. I mounted the china bowl carefully so the seals did not shift from their position. I then replaced the plastic clips and band. Remember….the plastic clips interlock on the front side and there is a gap on the back sir where the clamp screw mechanism is located. The Dometic instructions advised to tighten the band clamp to 65 in.-lbs of torque. Turn on the water and you should be "good to go" (pun intended).


Side Note-


Diane from Dometic Support also advised that you should flush the toilet by completely depressing the foot pedal for a few seconds and then let it snap back into position. I saw that posted before and thought it was worth mentioning.


If the leak continues, I would suggest reviewing the assembly to ensure that the gasket is equally centered when viewed from the top side. Also be sure that the plastic clips and clamps are properly installed with the space to the rear. The only other fix would be replacement of the entire ball mechanism. At that point, I think I would opt for a new toilet given the comparative cost.

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[Willym]

Great write up Chuck. Thanks.

 

[Gary521]

I did mine a while back. I would replace the flush ball while you are at it. It just take a couple more minutes. The flush ball wears at the seal area and causes leaks.

 

[Northerner]

We have had the same problem, changed the seal and it did not help. Figure we needed a new part, however, we had a new toilet installed. Rid of the problem now!

 

[driver311]

Make sure the rubber gasket it completely clean. I use a stiff tooth brush to scrub under the gasket and all around the ball. Then I put some vaseline under the rubber gasket to help soften it and that cured my problem.

then i put it back in my wifes holder for her to use

 

[meandg]

Thanks Chuck for your write up, it was instrumental in getting our toilet put back together. Our flush ball was stuck open so we pulled it all apart per your directions and cleaned it up and now it is working great. No parts needed.

 

[Westwind]

I have a 2012 Bighorn and I'm having that problem after 2 months of use. I've tried cleaning and lubricating the seal and nothing seemed to work for long. It's still in warranty so I'm calling Dometic and see what they can do or suggest.

 

[cookie]

I have a 2012 Bighorn and I'm having that problem after 2 months of use. I've tried cleaning and lubricating the seal and nothing seemed to work for long. It's still in warranty so I'm calling Dometic and see what they can do or suggest.

Westwind, you have a different toilet. Your 1012 Bighorn uses a model 310 toilet.
It is important to 'massage' the seal in place.
Don a pair of rubber gloves, or one, and rub the seal into place around the bottom of it while the pedal is depressed and the ball is in the open position.
I know this sounds weird but whenever my wife winds up with TP stuck between the ball and seal it will begin to leak until I get in there and reseat the seal.

Peace
Dave