underbelly coroplastic

bdb2047

Well-known member
Wanted easier access to gray tank valve.I cut all the way across plastic behind sewer pipe.I used a piece of uni-strut across trailer frame above edge of frame. I attached a piece of plastic divider used between lattice panels to uni-strut. After trimming plastic underbelly was able to slide it in divider. I have to put some screws to hold underbelly in place yet.If it holds up on road access will be easier. I didn't take pictures when I started but I think you can see what I did. IMG_1079.jpgIMG_1080.jpgIMG_1077.jpgIMG_1075.jpg
First 2 pics are of uni-strut and divider last 2 are installed in camper it also will give some support to grey tank. Got to dark to finish.
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
I need to do something like that.

When our dealer cut into ours to do some warranty repairs all they did was put some wood screws in the coroplast, which didn't even make 100 miles down the road before I found this wrapped around the front axle on our way to the Tucson Rodeo Rally earlier this year:

ProwlerCoroplastOnGround-P1010575.jpg

When you notice that nobody is passing you and there is a lineup of cars hanging behind you . . . that's when you know something is up! :p

Guess I'm lucky that I still have the piece and is Gorilla taped now, but is starting to come loose again.

There is another opening they did at the very back of the Prowler which held, but I've added Gorilla tape to that as well.
 

Apropdoc

Utah Chapter Leaders-retired
I need to do something like that.

When our dealer cut into ours to do some warranty repairs all they did was put some wood screws in the coroplast, which didn't even make 100 miles down the road before I found this wrapped around the front axle on our way to the Tucson Rodeo Rally earlier this year.

John, something you might consider is gluing down a strip of wood to the inside of the liner that overhangs the opening by an inch or two, also secure it with wood screws On the overhang side, drill holes in the cut coroplast and through the wood at 3 to 6 inch spacing. Remove the coroplast, oversize the holes to allow for the insertion of T-Nuts, and viola, now you have a secure way to close off the bottom of the trailer AND have access to it at the same time. Don't ask for illustrations, my crayons make a mess on my monitor:cool:. Just a thought.
 

happykraut

Well-known member
Dan Mayer knows of a product that uses flaps with zippers. I can't think of the name. It comes in different sizes.
 
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danemayer

Well-known member
If you just need to create access, you can install a Flex Mend Zippered Flap Trap. It's self-adhesive, but I'd suggest finishing the installation by Gorilla Tape on the edges and pop-rivets through the Gorilla Tape/Flap Trap Edges so they don't peel off from the wind. When you need access to the valve above the flap, you simply unzip it and you're in.

But of course, that doesn't help if you have to cut all the way across the coroplast for some reason.
 
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