Water draining out under the trailer by the front door Need help please

[pdutton]

First of all I am newbie to owning an RV so just assume that I know nothing whatsoever. lol Here is the scenario, I am hooked up to a water source and we have been running with the switch turned to "city Water" for two weeks now and have had zero issues. Well in my ultimate wisdom yesterday I thought I would fill up our fresh water tank, it was at 1/3 full, I switched the valve to tank per the instructions on the door and let it run for maybe 10 mins before switching it back to city water mode. after a couple of hours I walked out of the trailer and see water pouring out from under the trailer near the steps. After a few seconds of freaking out I shut off the water hose connected to the trailer and then started investigating where the water was coming from and it was a small valve that looks like a drain. after about 15 mins the water stopped draining.

I left the water off all night and then I turned it on again this morning after aou 20 mins the water stated pouring out from that same spot again.I shut the water off again and went to church and have not turned it back on yet. Any suggestions as to what is going on ad what I need to do.

If this is the fresh water tank overflow then why is it still filling now that ive turned it back to city water?

Please help the newbie so my wife doesn't kill me for breaking the new RV. lol

RV is a 2015 Road Warrior toy hauler

 

[jimtoo]

Hi pdutton,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and to the family. We have a great bunch of folks here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed.

There has been several folks report that the Anderson valve will start feeding two ways at the same time. Probably nothing you did, just the valve broke. I'm sure some of our other members will jump in soon with more info for you. I think they have a kit for the repairs.

Be sure and check out our Heartland Owners Club. Join us at a rally when you can and meet lots of the great folks here and make friends for a lifetime.

Enjoy the forum.

Jim M

 

[Oregon_Camper]

If the water is coming from the SIDE of the trailer (by your steps) then your tank is full and the water is coming out of our overflow valve.

If the water is coming out of the valve that is UNDER the trailer....then that is the fresh water drain valve. You need to crawl under there and close the valve, if you wan to carry fresh water.

 

[danemayer]

The most likely cause is a stuck internal check valve in the water pump. We had a lengthy discussion on this thread.
If under warranty, call Heartland and they will probably send you a new pump for self install, or you can have your dealer handle it. Another way to fix it is by adding an inline check valve on the suction side of the pump.

 

[pdutton]

The most likely cause is a stuck internal check valve in the water pump. We had a lengthy discussion on this thread.
If under warranty, call Heartland and they will probably send you a new pump for self install, or you can have your dealer handle it. Another way to fix it is by adding an inline check valve on the suction side of the pump.

Ince I do not plan on moving the RV and staying hooked up to the city water for about 6 months can I simply cap off the valve going to fill the fres water tank

 

[danemayer]

Ince I do not plan on moving the RV and staying hooked up to the city water for about 6 months can I simply cap off the valve going to fill the fres water tank

You can't cap it at the 4-way valve, but you could disconnect the line on the suction side of the water pump and cap that connection on the pump. The suction side has the clear strainer bowl. If you do that, you might want to also empty the fresh tank and maybe pull the fuse for the water pump so it doesn't inadvertently get turned on.

However, once you open the basement to get back there, it's pretty easy to put in a check valve. Sharkbite makes a 1/2" check valve that will slip right over pex lines. If you just cut the suction side pex line carefully to get a parallel cut, it's a 1 minute installation. Oh, and make sure the arrow on the check valve is pointing the right way.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

You can't cap it at the 4-way valve, but you could disconnect the line on the suction side of the water pump and cap that connection on the pump. The suction side has the clear strainer bowl. If you do that, you might want to also empty the fresh tank and maybe pull the fuse for the water pump so it doesn't inadvertently get turned on.

However, once you open the basement to get back there, it's pretty easy to put in a check valve. Sharkbite makes a 1/2" check valve that will slip right over pex lines. If you just cut the suction side pex line carefully to get a parallel cut, it's a 1 minute installation. Oh, and make sure the arrow on the check valve is pointing the right way.

I had the same problem Dan has you on the right track.
My suction line is all hose from the Anderson valve to the pump. That's why I was never able to install the shark-bite on the suction side. The new Water Pump did solve my back-flow problem though.
I did make that Shark-bite one-way check valve adapter to install on the back of the Anderson valve, but didn't end up needing it after installing the new pump.
https://heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/54076-Project-LM-365?p=481352&viewfull=1#post481352

 

[pdutton]

You can't cap it at the 4-way valve, but you could disconnect the line on the suction side of the water pump and cap that connection on the pump. The suction side has the clear strainer bowl. If you do that, you might want to also empty the fresh tank and maybe pull the fuse for the water pump so it doesn't inadvertently get turned on.

However, once you open the basement to get back there, it's pretty easy to put in a check valve. Sharkbite makes a 1/2" check valve that will slip right over pex lines. If you just cut the suction side pex line carefully to get a parallel cut, it's a 1 minute installation. Oh, and make sure the arrow on the check valve is pointing the right way.

I actually capped it at the valve prior to reading your comment. I has worked great, I unhooked the line going to the tank from the valve and put a cap on the valve and voila I works like a champ. no overflow into the tank and the city water feeds the entire RV. Thanks for every ones help

 

[pdutton]

Ok new issue. Guess I didn't notice it before but there is a sag under the trailer and so I poked a small hole in it and water drained out. Could this be from when the fresh tank overflowed the first time? Any help/suggestions on this one is appreciated

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Did you travel through any rain recently?


Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

In the last few weeks or eaven a month it could sit there

Some of us have drilled drain holes in the Corplast or (what ever it's called)

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[mlpeloquin]

Go to the lowest point and then use a 1/4" drill by hand. Make sure it is fresh water. Seal it with Gorilla Tape after cleaning it well and the Isopropyl Alcohol. The Gorolla tape will seal as well as anything you could use. You need to seal this in case you have a gray or heaven for bid black water leak. I have had a gray water valve leak into the under belly. Carry a small bucket for other things and it came in handy. You cannot dump gray water onto the ground. It must be put into a drain.

 

[pdutton]

Go to the lowest point and then use a 1/4" drill by hand. Make sure it is fresh water. Seal it with Gorilla Tape after cleaning it well and the Isopropyl Alcohol. The Gorolla tape will seal as well as anything you could use. You need to seal this in case you have a gray or heaven for bid black water leak. I have had a gray water valve leak into the under belly. Carry a small bucket for other things and it came in handy. You cannot dump gray water onto the ground. It must be put into a drain.

I did not have a drill handy so I used a Phillips head screwdriver and poked 3 small holes in the low point. The water was clear so no black tank action and didn't seem soapy so I doubt grey tanks. The sag seems to gone down almost completely this morning.

Have not driven thru rain but over the last few weeks in Texas we have got a crap ton of rain.

This may be a stupid question but the "low point" drains on each side of the RV are they for draining the fresh water tank.

 

[JohnD]

The "low point" drains on each side of the RV are they for draining the fresh water tank.

The low point drains on either side of the trailer are most likely the fresh tank overflow.

The fresh water tank drain should look like this (lone blue pipe with spicket):

 

[danemayer]

The fresh tanks are usually near the axles for weight distribution. The drain hose will usually be near the axles too. The fresh tank drain hose and any low point drains will each have a valve on the hose that sticks out of the coroplast. Overflow hoses for the fresh tank, and possibly for the washing machine, do not have shutoff valves unless you installed them.

 

[BusManRG]

Check out Dennyha's post on "What did you do to your trailer today". He added tubing to his tank to prevent the overflow from filling the underbelly of the unit.

 

[mlpeloquin]

Gray water, smells bad!!! Did I say it smells bad? So no smell then it is fresh water. Gray water can smell worse the the black tank. No soap or bubbles just strong smell and grayish in color. Do seal it up though. Gorilla tape is one of the basic things you need to carry.