Water manifold and basement remodel. (Long and lots of pictures)

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
I'd suggest while you're in there that you do move the converter to a more accessible spot, away from any possible leaks. Simply so that it has good clean air flow and you can access the fuses, should you need to, without having to crawl back there. The side of the step framing is a good spot.
 

DougAndJudy

Well-known member
I'd suggest while you're in there that you do move the converter to a more accessible spot, away from any possible leaks. Simply so that it has good clean air flow and you can access the fuses, should you need to, without having to crawl back there. The side of the step framing is a good spot.

Good point, John. I'll look into it some more.
 

SouthernNights

Past South Carolina Chapter Leader
Doug,
Boy that basement looks familiar.
Looks like you are off to a good start Doug. I like your access door mod. You have a lot more PEX behind the UDC than I did .

I see once you combined your drain lines that you have a lot more already.

And thank you for finishing my material list. :)
 

SouthernNights

Past South Carolina Chapter Leader
Simply outstanding!

My back hurts just thinking about how much time you spent hunched over in that basement.

The problem for me is, if I ever go through the brain damage of a very worthwhile mod like this, there's no way I'm ever getting rid of my coach for a newer one. Maybe this is cheap insurance?

I've been thinking about cleaning up the basement utilities, in such a way that I can remove the basement walls completely, gain some more storage, and somehow protect the utilities from my storage items slamming into them. We keep most of our stuff in bins, so it seems like it wouldn't be too difficult to craft some kind of barrier that keeps bins from doing any damage.

My back wasn't too bad, but I hit my head on every sharp thing under there. As far as thinking this is cheap insurance to keeping your trailer????? We had just put a second A/C on our BC 6 months before trading for the LM. The insurance might be cheap but it doesn't work. :rolleyes:
 

DougAndJudy

Well-known member
I got the next steps done. First I cut down the wall that conceals the vacuum and such. I trimmed the felt and gooped it up with contact cement and folded the felt in place. Then I added lights. As I mentioned previously, I had two porch lights that I saved after adding two SmartLights. They worked out fine. I don't have clear lenses for them yet, but they are working OK for now. I put the light switch right inside the garage rather than in the battery compartment, thinking that it would be more convenient to have the switch in the area I'm working in. Sorry, no picture.

Then I moved the shower drain closer to the water heater similarly to Larry's.

DSC00311.JPGDSC00312.JPG

The black board in the second picture is the piece I cut off the long wall. I will probably mount it where it's now leaning and attach the Manabloc to it.

Now that I have lights I will look into moving the converter and the auto transfer switch box up on the outside of the storage shelf.

Here's the basement wall with the long piece trimmed and the hinges in place. It doesn't look much different than in the previous pictues, but now the door butts up to the wall and the hinges are flush.

DSC00314.JPG
 

DougAndJudy

Well-known member
The job is finished! I moved the converter and the auto transfer switch box to the back of the storage box. A couple of days later, the Manabloc arrived. I attached it to the piece I removed from the wall after I mounted the piece firmly to the end of the storage box. I started running PEX and was able to complete the live attachment about 5 hours after I received the Manabloc. No leaks!! Here is how the manifold looks with all the PEX lines attached. In the picture, the water pump still sits right in the middle of the passage to the inner sanctum.

DSC00316.JPGDSC00317.JPG

Today I finished everything off by moving the water pump between the UDC and the water heater, similarly to Larry's design. This allowed me to move the mess of PEX lines behind the UDC to a more compact layout. There are still a lot of lines there but no bypass functionality was lost.

DSC00319.JPGDSC00320.JPG

The last step was to support the new water lines with cable ties, as needed.
 

SouthernNights

Past South Carolina Chapter Leader
Good for you Doug. Nice job. I was actually getting on the forum to PM you to see how you were making out.

No Leaks!!! Yeah. Might not be something you will take advantage of everyday, but when you do need to get in the back basement, now you can!

We just got back today from a short trip. I have to say that it made a big difference in the flow from the faucets.
 

DougAndJudy

Well-known member
We are at the Gillette Rally, if anyone is interested in seeing this mod. We're at space E36. We'll be glad to show it if it's not windy or raining...
 

wdk450

Well-known member
My back wasn't too bad, but I hit my head on every sharp thing under there. As far as thinking this is cheap insurance to keeping your trailer????? We had just put a second A/C on our BC 6 months before trading for the LM. The insurance might be cheap but it doesn't work. :rolleyes:

I had to crawl into that space for several hours while I was in West Yellowstone to replace the convertor (I put a metal "water roof" on it with velcro), and rebuild the black tank washer PEX plumbing stuck up in the wall behind my toilet. I ended up with shooting electric jolts throughout my body coming from my solar plexus that happened every time I tilted my head/neck up to its extreme. It went away with icing and time. Pinched nerve in the neck, I guess.
 

porthole

Retired
If I had this manifold idea when I re-did all the plumbing in the Cyclone it would be a lot easier right now to isolate the fresh water tank so it stops filling through the water pump while on city water :mad:

I either have to keep draining the fresh water tanks while on city (ok with a sewer hook up) or listen to the pump constantly cycle as it leaks internally (what I'm doing now with no sewer).
 

danemayer

Well-known member
If I had this manifold idea when I re-did all the plumbing in the Cyclone it would be a lot easier right now to isolate the fresh water tank so it stops filling through the water pump while on city water
The pump has an internal check valve that's stuck open. Shurflo sells an in-line check valve that you can install on the line coming from the fresh tank.
 

porthole

Retired
Shurflo sells an.

I know about the check valve, this is not the first pump with this problem. And there will never be another ShurFlo pump in my future. 4 pumps in 4 seasons is a bit much.

This one will be replaced with a Jabsco when we get back.
 

jejinks

Member
Well I couldn't help myself. After seeing your (Southern Nights) manifold at the Waynesville campground Rally this year, I started my complete re-work and have currently finished, all of my electrical wiring rerouting. I have moved my invertor from its original location, directly under the water closet, to under the steps ( floor hamper) area. I did this because I have overflowed our water closet and short circuited a previous invertor. I have also relocated an after market surge protector from the left rear of camper to inside the basement area and placed the reader moduale to the area inside the camper where the sldieout and light fixture buttons are located.

I have purchased the manifold, fittings and piping from company you recommended and they have been great. Look forward to getting plumbing portion done soon.

Hope to have a few photos to few soon.
 

Nabo

Southeast Region Director-Retired
My word Jeff. You sure have been busy since the October rally. Please document all of your steps to share with everyone. Can wait to see the pictures.
 

SouthernNights

Past South Carolina Chapter Leader
Good job on moving the convertor. Any place is better than on the floor. Do you know where you are going to mount the manifold?

Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2
 

jejinks

Member
I mounted the manifold opposite of your location or directly behind the water heater area (see attached photo). I mounted in this location as I have the 50 amp surge protector (that I relocated from plug location under fender) directly opposite the manifold (pictures to come as I finish this area) near the converter.

Before
Original Config.jpg



After


Manifold Complete.jpg

The area I am currently working on is relocating the central vacuum and zip tying all of the wiring that I relocated (actually completed yesterday).

Before Overall View.jpg

After is coming soon.



For those thinking this is taking way to long to try, I haven't spent this long working on it but do a little at a time. We have had a couple of unfortunate deaths in the family as well as wet and snowing winter in East Tennessee, along with raising one of our grandchildren so I haven't been working on it but in short spurts. I believe one more good Saturday and I will be finished.
 

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Phatkd

Well-known member
Very awesome thread guys! I don't know much about plumbing,..what is the advantage of the manifold vs. the way they come from the factory?
 

SouthernNights

Past South Carolina Chapter Leader
Nice job Jeff. I see you used the Man-A- Bloc also.


Very awesome thread guys! I don't know much about plumbing,..what is the advantage of the manifold vs. the way they come from the factory?

To me there are several advantages. The manifold was just part of an overall project of cleaning up my basement area.
1. Homeruns (dedicated lines) to each drop.
2) Ability to isolate each drop for service if needed with out shutting off the water to the entire coach-or in case you do have a leak shutting off the water to just that drop and still have water.
3) A little bit neater than factory.
4)The ability to add future drops easily-e.g. outside water on the DS or in the rear.
5)A chance to check or replace most of the factory crimps. Hopefully eliminating future surprise leaks in the basement.

I am sure there are other reasons someone might want to do this but these were mine.
 
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