Water Pressure

[Cands]

The water pressure is non-existent since moving to a new site. Two questions. First, since winterizing and the move, I'm wondering if there is a valve that is either off or on that should or shouldn't be other than the three that should be. Second, if I pull out the screen for the incoming water, what is the downside? Yes, it's winter here.

 

[danemayer]

What trailer do you have?

Are you running directly from campground water, or are you using your fresh tank/water pump?

Do you have a heated water hose from campground spigot to the trailer water inlet? Have you checked to ensure you're getting water through the hose?

 

[Cands]

The water pressure is non-existent since moving to a new site. Two questions. First, since winterizing and the move, I'm wondering if there is a valve that is either off or on that should or shouldn't be other than the three that should be. Second, if I pull out the screen for the incoming water, what is the downside? Yes, it's winter here.

I've got a 2016 Oakmont. I'm running water directly to the rv from the stem by hose. Yes, the hose is heated and water is going through it.

 

[danemayer]

Ok, assuming you've filled the water heater tank already (the first 10-12 gallons goes into the tank), the next step would be to put some water in your fresh tank and turn on the pump to see if you get good water flow. If you have the 4-way Anderson Valve in the Universal Docking Center (UDC), you'll want to switch it to TANK mode to add water to the fresh tank and then switch to NORMAL to pump water out of the tank.

 

[Cands]

Ok, assuming you've filled the water heater tank already (the first 10-12 gallons goes into the tank), the next step would be to put some water in your fresh tank and turn on the pump to see if you get good water flow. If you have the 4-way Anderson Valve in the Universal Docking Center (UDC), you'll want to switch it to TANK mode to add water to the fresh tank and then switch to NORMAL to pump water out of the tank.

I'm going to be parked in the same place for months. I was hoping to just utilize a direct line to the water. My question is, is there a valve that needs to be closed? The upper three from the top down are open, closed, open. What's the deal with the valve nearest the pump? Should it be on or off?

 

[danemayer]

I'm going to be parked in the same place for months. I was hoping to just utilize a direct line to the water. My question is, is there a valve that needs to be closed? The upper three from the top down are open, closed, open. What's the deal with the valve nearest the pump? Should it be on or off?

On the suction side of the pump, the side with the clear filter bowl, there's a tee for a short piece of tubing that has a valve. That is the antifreeze suction line used for winterizing. That valve needs to be closed, or the pump will just suck in air instead of water from the tank. But if you're not using the pump, it isn't relevant to your problem.

The water heater bypass positions sound right, and even if wrong, won't interfere with water flow. If wrong, all you get is cold water through all faucets.

The reason you should try pumping water out of the fresh tank is to isolate the problem location. If everything works when on pump, the problem is close to the water inlet where the hose is connected.

Another consideration is if you have low point drains. There is water in the tubing above the drain valves that's exposed to outside air. It'll freeze and the ice can wick up into the tees, blocking some of the water lines.

It sounds like you've got a blockage, possibly from ice, and you need to try some isolation tests to locate the blockage.